Heated steering wheel

Lightning_Lugo · January 15, 2018

is there a youtube video showing the install process on this?

Justin101714 · January 15, 2018

Not that I know of, I’ve been meaning to make one though. I may rip my wheel off soon again anyway.

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bkesting · January 21, 2018

So I haven't looked under my dash or anything yet, but two days ago I just purchased a 2016 LTZ that has heated seats but does not have adjustable pedals. So am I to assume that the plug will be present but not hot?

pgamboa · January 21, 2018

So I haven't looked under my dash or anything yet, but two days ago I just purchased a 2016 LTZ that has heated seats but does not have adjustable pedals. So am I to assume that the plug will be present but not hot?

If I recall, there were others without adjustable pedals that had the 2-Pin mate connector below and was hot. There hasn’t been any rhyme or reason as to when they are present and/or hot.

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cbrsilv15 · January 21, 2018

Just take 2 mins and a multimeter and you can see if it's present and hot. Mine was there, just not hot. I didn't have adjustable pedals.

bkesting · January 21, 2018

38 minutes ago, cbrsilv15 said:

Just take 2 mins and a multimeter and you can see if it's present and hot. Mine was there, just not hot. I didn't have adjustable pedals.

So if it's "hot", it would be hot constant with key on?

Edited January 21, 2018 by bkesting

cbrsilv15 · January 21, 2018

Yes. Just make sure you check with the key on. Lol. I didn’t the first time.

ModJunky · January 22, 2018

just finished heated steering wheel swap on my 14 silverado LT, the wiring was not present on my column harness. i was able to source the plug and pin the connector and tap into the ground for the column harness, i wanted it as close to factory as possible.t total cost for was around 210.00

New heated steering wheel- 150.00 through ebay

New clock Spring - 60.00 through my local GM dealer

Plug- free i was able to source from a harness i already had (pure luck)

from the harness connector under the dash i had to run a power to the X51L connector (drivers side fuse box) where the fuse is located for the heated steering wheel 7.5 amp fuse the only one in there i did verify that the heat turns off on ignition and also pulled the fuse during operation to ensure it was on the right circuit. Pgamboa sent me a pre terminated wire to go from the column harness connector to the X51L fuse block. Word of advice make sure the wire front the column connector to the X51L is the same gauge thicker wire caused my heated steering wheel to short cycle

the cost can be further offset by selling your old wheel and clock spring. which is my plan

bkesting · January 22, 2018

Does one need a puller to remove the wheel for this project? Where are most people buying wheels and clock springs. I see GM Parts Direct has the wheel for $221 IIRC

Edited January 22, 2018 by bkesting

tbarn · January 22, 2018

No puller usually required. Loosen the nut a few threads then pull and rock the wheel. Ya gotta pull hard so you need to leave the nut on a couple of threads.

pgamboa · January 22, 2018

No puller usually required. Loosen the nut a few threads then pull and rock the wheel. Ya gotta pull hard so you need to leave the nut on a couple of threads.

Good tip on leaving the nut on. I had a visual of someone knocking them self out, pulling so hard on it.

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ModJunky · January 22, 2018

I got my wheel from eBay 150 shipped to the door

ModJunky · January 22, 2018

I have the forward collision on it but it does not affect functions at all they wanted more for just a heated version

pgamboa · January 22, 2018

Yes. Just make sure you check with the key on. Lol. I didn’t the first time.

I went to double check things and thought the entire time this was a constant hot Voltage.

Yeah, it’s not. It’s a Run/Crank Voltage. Only hot when started.

Thanks for pointing that out!

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lagerman72 · January 22, 2018

I finally got around to putting my new to me steering wheel/clock spring on (thanks Tbarn!) but am having a hard time sourcing the pin that goes into the connector on the back of the X51L fuse panel. I have the Yazaki pin for X201 (by the BCM) connector and the one I thought was correct for the other end came in but it's definitely not the correct one. I'm lucky enough to have the connector for the heated wheel in the harness, it's just not hot.

Pgamboa - are you selling a pre-terminated wire that goes from the X51L to the X201? If so I'll shoot ya PM to get that ball rolling so I can finish this wiring as close to factory as possible. Thanks!

Edited: looking for the terminal to order that goes into the X2 connector on the back of the X51L

Edited January 22, 2018 by lagerman72
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