Jump to content

Need converter advice

02suburbanZ71

Recommended Posts

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys they had to make me a 2800-3000 circle D and I'm really scared to be honest, can someone make me feel better

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply
NitroCherokee Enthusiast

NitroCherokee

Posted
Posted

Guys they had to make me a 2800-3000 circle D and I'm really scared to be honest, can someone make me feel better

Drop back to about 2600, your trans will last a lot longer with a lot less heat

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I canceled my order for the stall even though i paid. I just couldnt pull the trigger. Its too nice and dependable of a vehicle to throw a stall in, as much as i wanted it.

  • 4 weeks later...
kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

I have a question for you. What all is done to your burb? I have plenty of grunt to lite my 315/70r17 from a stop with the stock 3.73 gear. I do have a tune and basic bolt-ons, but nothing really to brag about. My truck doesn't have a problem jumping off the line either. Where does you truck currently stall at? Mine stalls at 1800 under hard acceleration, which I think is plenty to get torque/jump off the line. When you are accelerating hard from a dead stop, do you flat foot it or do you half throttle until pass the stall speed? That makes a really big difference in acceleration. Full throttle from a stop puts the truck in abuse mode and pulls timing/power until 3 sec later. Another thing, what is that saying,"if your spinning you ain't winning!"

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

Also, you have a lot of weight over the rear which makes it harder to break it loose than say a truck with the same drivetrain.

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its just a BB tuned and k&n suburban. It wouldnt spin 265/70/17's taking off with 3.73 or brakestand. With the new trans it spins em off the line and 1-2 shift. Im not gonna try to brakestand the new trans but it has more power off the line now. Justin took all the abuse mode and such out. I told him i wanted to spin em and he did all he could. Yeah all the extra weight, full 31 gal tank, A/T's, and the suv has the upgraded dual piston brake upgrade so its just too much to ask for. However im happy i didnt stall it

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have a question for you. What all is done to your burb? I have plenty of grunt to lite my 315/70r17 from a stop with the stock 3.73 gear. I do have a tune and basic bolt-ons, but nothing really to brag about. My truck doesn't have a problem jumping off the line either. Where does you truck currently stall at? Mine stalls at 1800 under hard acceleration, which I think is plenty to get torque/jump off the line. When you are accelerating hard from a dead stop, do you flat foot it or do you half throttle until pass the stall speed? That makes a really big difference in acceleration. Full throttle from a stop puts the truck in abuse mode and pulls timing/power until 3 sec later. Another thing, what is that saying,"if your spinning you ain't winning!"

So far i've beat all my friends trucks with ease. 07 cummins with k&n, strait pipe, 02 silverado 5.3 ext cab, 97 ram 5.2, 98 1500 5.7. Its a very fast suburban All the above trucks can brake stand-- i cant but i can easily smoke them in a race!! Even if they dont lose traction. Why??
kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

lots of variables in the races, and things can be different from day to day. But, knowing how the hp/torque curve look on my 5.3, the 5.3 is at basically 90% peak torque from 2200 rpm to just about 5100 rpm. That's the edge you have over most of the other trucks you listed. The old 350 vortec peaked around 2800 rpm then started dying off rapidly, same for the 318 ram truck. IDK how you beat the 02 5.3 truck, unless it needs a tune up or something... The cummins should give you a good run from a dig if he brake boost it, if he didn't, then they are slow (as with most diesels that aren't in a race).

 

My dad's truck is basically the same thing my truck is but has 285/70r17 tires. We raced from a dig and I put half truck by my 1-2 shift, then just over a truck by around 70ish before he quit. I think most of the reason I walked him was from the fuel enrichment tuning, 5800 rpm shift point vs. his 5500 rpm, and fast/harder shifts from the tune. I didn't really pull on him through the gear, just on the launch and shifts.

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lots of variables in the races, and things can be different from day to day. But, knowing how the hp/torque curve look on my 5.3, the 5.3 is at basically 90% peak torque from 2200 rpm to just about 5100 rpm. That's the edge you have over most of the other trucks you listed. The old 350 vortec peaked around 2800 rpm then started dying off rapidly, same for the 318 ram truck. IDK how you beat the 02 5.3 truck, unless it needs a tune up or something... The cummins should give you a good run from a dig if he brake boost it, if he didn't, then they are slow (as with most diesels that aren't in a race).

 

My dad's truck is basically the same thing my truck is but has 285/70r17 tires. We raced from a dig and I put half truck by my 1-2 shift, then just over a truck by around 70ish before he quit. I think most of the reason I walked him was from the fuel enrichment tuning, 5800 rpm shift point vs. his 5500 rpm, and fast/harder shifts from the tune. I didn't really pull on him through the gear, just on the launch and shifts.

I beat the 02 5.3 1500 ecrb pretty darn good, he only has 138K miles. How does the fuel enrichment help? Justin played with that on mine

vettelovralexand Enthusiast

vettelovralexand

Posted
Posted

You guys make it sound like a 3000 stall is a non-lockup converter from a race car with a powerglide. I agree it is on the high side for a stock cam, but it doesnt mean the truck has to go to 3k to move or that you still cant cruise the interstate locked at 2k. With a 40k the truck would be fine.

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I believe the heat would significantly shorten the life. Also i kind like the tightness of the oem but not the stall speed of 1600

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

Have either of you driven a 3/4 or 1 ton truck/van with the 6.0/4l80e? I like how the stall flashes to 2400-2500rpm when full throttle from a stop. I also like way it shifts with the higher stall, less rpm drop through gear changes. Kind of like driving a cvt trans. The higher stall allows the engine to stay at, lets say 2000 rpm, through shifts keeping the engine in its power band. I am sure with the right tuning with a 2200-2500 rpm stall, the 4l60e would not loose much life.

 

Stall speed also changes with weight, power, and gear of the truck. The same stall behind a more powerful engine will stall higher than an engine with less power. My truck stalls higher after the tune and 315 tires than it did stock with 285 tires on it. I want a higher stall in my truck, but with 200k on the stock trans, I think I will weight till I rebuild it before doing so. I would probably look at stall with flash rating around 2200-2400 rpm.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...