Jump to content

Need converter advice

02suburbanZ71

Recommended Posts

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

You mean the i6 torque converter right? I thought about it for a while, but for the money, I would spend more for a better converter. As I plan to keep my tank for a long time and mod it for my taste.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply
02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes i do like he 3/4th ton 6.0 vans i do notice the stall speed on them. When i try to brake torque it revs up to like 2100 and i hold the brakes and punch it just a little and it still goes forward. ? Am i doing this wrong

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

Thats normal as the engine torque is overcoming the friction of you brakes.

 

As for the fuel enrichment tuning, it plays hand in hand with the torque management tuning. Remember before your tune, how the truck had a delay when you floor it from a stop or when you needed to pass someone in a hurry? Thats the fuel enrichment settings. The computer has to see full throttle for 3 seconds first before it gives your engine the proper amount of fuel it need at full throttle to give you full power. At the same time, ecm as asking the tcm to either downshift for passing gear or boost line pressure for more holding power in a gear while seeing if the tcm can perform these task within the parameters of the torque managnment. For me, I asked my tuner to get rid of the fuel delay and numb some of the torque management setting so that I could have better throttle response.

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats normal as the engine torque is overcoming the friction of you brakes.

 

As for the fuel enrichment tuning, it plays hand in hand with the torque management tuning. Remember before your tune, how the truck had a delay when you floor it from a stop or when you needed to pass someone in a hurry? Thats the fuel enrichment settings. The computer has to see full throttle for 3 seconds first before it gives your engine the proper amount of fuel it need at full throttle to give you full power. At the same time, ecm as asking the tcm to either downshift for passing gear or boost line pressure for more holding power in a gear while seeing if the tcm can perform these task within the parameters of the torque managnment. For me, I asked my tuner to get rid of the fuel delay and numb some of the torque management setting so that I could have better throttle response.

To be honest with my bb tune i dont notice anything different off the line. But everything else seemed much better. If my engine torque is overcoming the friction of the brakes why wont it bust em loose?

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

Really, I did. My old tbi 350 truck was much more snappy in throttle response than my current truck was when I first got it. Foot down and my old truck would move instantly, not fast, but instant throttle response. Foot down on my truck and it would sit for 3sec (you could count it) then take off life a bat out of hell. After the tune, foot down and my truck goes instantly.

 

Its overcoming you brakes and tires friction, not overpowering them to the point that you are doing a brake stand. If you really want to do a burnout. From a stop, stomp on the pedal, as soon as the stall flashes to it's stall speed (the weight starts to shift to the rear), jab the brakes to shift the weight back to the front while still at full throttle. Tires will break loose, once they do, modulate the brake pedal so that you don't top the burnout. Have fun!!!

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

Sorry so late to the show. A stock i6 Trailblazer converter would be a great choice, it's about a 2400-2600 stall. I had one in my Trailblazer SS. It drives very close to stock, if you let off the brake without giving any gas the TBSS would still move quite a bit. I didn't add a cooler either. I had a dashhawk and could read trans temps, and they stayed the same as the stock converter. I was afraid of going with the circle d 3200. I actually bought one, but chickened out and went with the stock i6 converter. After putting the i6 converter in, I wished I would have went with the circle d 3200 stall. Although the i6 60 footed a tenth better than the stock TBSS converter, and I could chirp the tires on my all wheel drive TBSS, it just wasn't enough difference. The circle d and a small aux trans cooler would still be a good choice, but just a tad more on the wild side. The TBSS crowd loved that converter and all that had one said it drove like stock also, until you got on it. It was a tight 3200 stall. And even with an i6 converter it will shift a little softer, so put a corvette servo to firm things back up a bit.

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

could you explain more on how it acted? I would really like a detailed review of a 3200rpm CD stall. everything I read is mostly about how fast it flashes and drives good. I really want more explanation on the stall, even with the i6 stall. so i and others can make a more informed choice

02suburbanZ71 Senior Enthusiast

02suburbanZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did the same bought a circle D 3200 chickened out and put an oem truck converter in. Even that method of relieving weight with the brakes wont brake stand it. It simply cant be done in this DBC. I have no idea why however i havent tried it with the new trans but it spins em going straight now before it couldnt

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

The i6 converter drove like stock 99% of the time. Only when punching it off the line did I notice a little diff. When I finally decided to change the converter, I was expecting a little diff in everyday driving, but the i6 converter drove the same. That's why I prob should have went with the circle d 3200. It would have been better out of the hole and prob just a little bit of a change in drivability. Chris at circle d has written many informational pieces on a lot of aspects of how torque converters work and how they can affect drivability. Two 3600 stalls can behave very differently depending on how tight or loose the converter is. I'd encourage anyone to give circle d a call.

kmborland Enthusiast

kmborland

Posted
Posted

Thank you for that. Few questions, if you don't mind. You said it drove stock right, so under normal driving from say a stop light. How high did the stall flash to? How far did the rpms drop between gear change? Also, full throttle upshift 1-2, the higher stall will allow less of an rpm drop right? Did that occur when you switched stalls? Sorry for all the questions, I read a lot on this stuff and understand the theory just hard to actually find someone to talk to about their experience.

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

Thank you for that. Few questions, if you don't mind. You said it drove stock right, so under normal driving from say a stop light. How high did the stall flash to? How far did the rpms drop between gear change? Also, full throttle upshift 1-2, the higher stall will allow less of an rpm drop right? Did that occur when you switched stalls? Sorry for all the questions, I read a lot on this stuff and understand the theory just hard to actually find someone to talk to about their experience.

 

Sorry to be so vague, but the diff was minimal when shifting. There was about a 500 rpm less of a drop on the 1-2 shift, because of the big gear ratio spread. Less of an rpm drop in other gears. It did get out of the whole better, about a tenth off the 60 ft. I never really flashed the stall. Best launches were at just above idle, about 1000 rpm's. The stock converter 60 footed the best launching at idle. Shift were just as firm, but I also put a Corvette survo in the same time I did the stall.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • garagerog
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By garagerog · Posted

      Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Gilkey96
      Low fuel pressure after installing new fuel pump

      By Gilkey96 · Posted

      Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • MORSNO
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...