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Removing body side molding

ChevyBrad1500

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ChevyBrad1500 Enthusiast

ChevyBrad1500

Posted
Posted

Has anyone removed the body side molding on the doors? Is it hard to remove? I'm removing the painted molding and replacing with chrome. I thought about running a strip of masking tape above and below the molding before removing to be a guide for installing the new chrome molding.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

It's not hard. And if you use a 3M wheel to clear the adhesive then there should be a "ghost molding"

 

Should be able to provide a nice guide for exactly where to place the new molding [emoji106]

Also, it's not difficult to remove. I have found it easiest with using some fishing line (braided line works well as it'll act like a saw to the adhesive when you pull it side to side. After cutting the adhesive along the whole molding, you can lift it away from the body.

dboot66 Enthusiast

dboot66

Posted
Posted

I used fishing line. Worked fine. Definitely recommend heating molding up with a hair dryer first, and continue putting heat on it while you remove the old molding. Getting the molding tape off the truck was kinda tough. I didn't have a 3M eraser wheel, so I just pulled it off with my fingers. Took maybe 20-30 minutes per door doing in that way. Cleaned up excellent with some Goo-Gone Automotive.

 

I used a strip of blue painters tape directly above the old molding prior to removal for marking proper location for new molding.

 

3M Molding tape from an auto parts store works perfectly to mount the new moldings.

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

Has anyone removed the body side molding on the doors? Is it hard to remove? I'm removing the painted molding and replacing with chrome. I thought about running a strip of masking tape above and below the molding before removing to be a guide for installing the new chrome molding.

 

Which color was your stock molding?

higgy243 Enthusiast

higgy243

Posted
Posted

Wish I would've known I could've given you mine for cheap, although one did break. I would definitely use tape above and below, I have a tiny line from where the fishing line made a mark above the molding, should buff out but just a heads up. I just used my thumb and fingers to get the tape off, tedious but worked fine.

bass mechanic Enthusiast

bass mechanic

Posted
Posted

i simply covered my chrome molding with 3m vinyl wrap. takes just about the same amount of time, looks exactly like stock and you can easily go back to chrome if you ever feel the need.

cost me about 12 bucks for a 12 inch by 120 inch roll and i simply cut the roll in 1/4 th's so i had (4) 3" wide strips i used 2 for the sides and the rest for the bottom of the window trim.

i even wrapped the door handles and chrome mirror covers but eventually bough the paintable versions from GM and had a local body shop paint them for about 60 bucks.

if you head the wrap with a hair dryer or heat gun you can stretch it slightly at the ends of the molding and it will shrink back and around the edge, simple trim the excess with a fingernail all the way along the top and bottom while stretching and cutting it exactly to the surface of the door.

you might even be able to use a plastic scraper or credit card to do the same thing all the way along the top bottom and ends of the strip.

 

heres a pic

B01E57DA-6EDD-4242-9178-BF338E7A0A1D_zpsEE6073AA-E92F-4BB2-8615-1993F5545B90_zps061D5BCB-664C-4957-849E-22C02EBAB30D_zps

  • 2 months later...
Plwtwo Enthusiast

Plwtwo

Posted
Posted

The best thing to do is go buy a adhesive/tape removal wheel from autoparts store in the body repair section.. Firm rubber wheel. The molding comes off easy with pulling the double sided tape sucks but with the wheel its a piece a cake!

sahls01gmc Senior Enthusiast

sahls01gmc

Posted
Posted

Fishing line to get the moulding off, heat gun to get the double sided tape, and Goo Gone to get the remainder off.

  • 1 year later...
bgweed Enthusiast

bgweed

Posted
Posted

i simply covered my chrome molding with 3m vinyl wrap. takes just about the same amount of time, looks exactly like stock and you can easily go back to chrome if you ever feel the need.

cost me about 12 bucks for a 12 inch by 120 inch roll and i simply cut the roll in 1/4 th's so i had (4) 3" wide strips i used 2 for the sides and the rest for the bottom of the window trim.

i even wrapped the door handles and chrome mirror covers but eventually bough the paintable versions from GM and had a local body shop paint them for about 60 bucks.

if you head the wrap with a hair dryer or heat gun you can stretch it slightly at the ends of the molding and it will shrink back and around the edge, simple trim the excess with a fingernail all the way along the top and bottom while stretching and cutting it exactly to the surface of the door.

you might even be able to use a plastic scraper or credit card to do the same thing all the way along the top bottom and ends of the strip.

 

 

Really glad I found this - I was wondering if I could wrap the side trim and so far you're the only one I've seen who's done it. Your photos speak for themselves. I wonder if doing a brushed black would be a nice accent or i should just go with gloss black?

http://www.metrorestyling.com/3M-1080-BR212-Brushed-Black-Metallic-Vinyl-Wrap-p/3m1080-br212.htm

 

Coincidentally I'm moving to CoS in a month.

bc-chris Enthusiast

bc-chris

Posted
Posted

 

Really glad I found this - I was wondering if I could wrap the side trim and so far you're the only one I've seen who's done it. Your photos speak for themselves. I wonder if doing a brushed black would be a nice accent or i should just go with gloss black?

http://www.metrorestyling.com/3M-1080-BR212-Brushed-Black-Metallic-Vinyl-Wrap-p/3m1080-br212.htm

 

Coincidentally I'm moving to CoS in a month.

 

 

if you're going from chrome to black you could always use plastidip. i did that on my truck - it was suuuuper easy to do and i've been really happy with the resust. if you want the black flat, then just use the black plastidip. if you want it gloss then use the clear glossifier after you've got enough layers of the black on (that's what i did)

 

 

before:

IMG_1571_zpsogzvtapd.jpg

 

after:

IMG_3914_zpsteeitz5c.jpg

bgweed Enthusiast

bgweed

Posted
Posted

if you're going from chrome to black you could always use plastidip. i did that on my truck - it was suuuuper easy to do and i've been really happy with the resust. if you want the black flat, then just use the black plastidip. if you want it gloss then use the clear glossifier after you've got enough layers of the black on (that's what i did)

 

 

I am going from chrome to black. Your truck looks good... I was wondering if I would have any even-ness issues using a plasti-dip aerosol on a long strip like that. How many cans did you end up using? Does the black+glossifier match the black paint pretty well in person? I was already going to black plasti-dip my stock 20" AT wheels.

bc-chris Enthusiast

bc-chris

Posted
Posted

 

I am going from chrome to black. Your truck looks good... I was wondering if I would have any even-ness issues using a plasti-dip aerosol on a long strip like that. How many cans did you end up using? Does the black+glossifier match the black paint pretty well in person? I was already going to black plasti-dip my stock 20" AT wheels.

 

 

thanks

 

that was the first time i had ever used plastidip - it was sooooo easy to do. i think it looks pretty even and matches the truck really well. when i did the chrome on the doors i just walked at a constant pace along my truck while spraying the chrome. i didn't even use an entire can - and that was both chevy logos, the grey plastic part on either side of my front license plate and the chrome strips

 

there's a link to my build thread at the bottom of the post if you want to see what i did

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