2015 Silverado NHT Suspension Upgrade Help

[wfred]

With only 750 tw you should be fine with the hitch readjusted. I pulled a lot heavier TT with mine and the majority of the problem was resolved by adjusting the hitch (7 washers?). Even better after the bilsteins. In the end I wasn't happy and upgraded to a 2500.

 

I really regret making this trade - definately one of the worst decision I have made. I should have suffered bad MPG with my '13 6.0L 2500HD a bit longer and traded for a new D-Max. What kind of mpg do you get towing your travel trailer with a D-Max?

[calgator73]

I won't know that until May 15th (next camping trip) but I suspect it won't be good as I'm only going about 30 miles in heavy Virginia Beach traffic. My profile pic is of the old truck. Will update once I'm hitched up. My neighbor is pulling a 14k 5th with his 3500 and he claims 12.5 @ 65 on I-95. Most people in the forums are claiming 10-12.

 

The truck/trailer combo you have is well matched...it's just a matter of dialing it in. I was pushing over 1,200 pounds of TW and over GVWR by 200lbs. Only 750 lbs and 7500 lbs should be fine. Just gotta remember you have a very soft suspension and it takes a lot of spring pressure to redistribute the load. I personally don't like 50% load restoration. I go for full load restoration to preserve headlight aiming and minimize porpoising. With my setup I achieved that.

 

I think as the mfgs make the 1/2 ton trucks lighter and more car-like they are going to find more unsatisfied people. The ride quality of the 2500 with the extra mass is amazing. All told I didn't gain that much in capacity by moving up. I'll break it down.

 

Dry weight is ~7600lbs.

GVWR is 10K

available payload ~2400

TW ~1300lbs

truck load of passengers=930lbs

only leaves 170 lbs of margin before adding bikes, cooler, firepit etc

 

1500 NHT

dry weight ~5700

GVWR 7200 (7600 if I used 2015 standards)

Available payload 1500

TW ~1300

passengers = 400lbs (split between two cars because of bucket seats)

I'm over GVWR by 200 lbs before adding bikes, cooler, firepit etc and my RAW is right below the limit.

 

Stiffer shocks, different receiver, used all the washers on my WD hitch, added bilsteins, helper springs and was about to upgrade to load range D tires. I ended up with an overweight vehicle that drove my OCD wife insane and increased my stress level because I was continually rationalizing what I was doing. Towing ride quality (porpoising) was dramatically improved but unloaded the chassis had these weird vibrations induced by the lack of suspension compliance and I think I damaged something in the rear end after the axle hopped my last trip under load.

[redwngr]

 

I really regret making this trade - definately one of the worst decision I have made. I should have suffered bad MPG with my '13 6.0L 2500HD a bit longer and traded for a new D-Max. What kind of mpg do you get towing your travel trailer with a D-Max?

You'd love towing your trailer with a dmax.

2011 - 2015 have the same powertrain and frame.

[Jon A]

I ended up with an overweight vehicle that drove my OCD wife insane and increased my stress level because I was continually rationalizing what I was doing.

 

Yeah, you did really load that thing to the max. A 2500 is probably a good fit for you. However, I do think most of the issues you had were fixable--had you started with E rated tires and airbags in the first place you may have had a much better overall experience.

 

Anyway, this is probably as good a thread as any to talk about shocks as they relate to towing: I would encourage people to open their minds to spending a bit more money on shocks than most usually do. The Bilstein 5100’s aren’t bad, but they’re far from the best. I swapped from the 5100’s to a pair of ICON extended travel coilovers in front and the difference is quite dramatic.

 

When you spend ~50K on a new truck you plan to keep for many years, a set of really good shocks that’ll give a dramatically better ride along with dramatically better handling that you will notice every single day is worth a few hundred extra bucks. Especially if you’re a perfectionist type.

 

There are lots of good shocks out there, I went with ICON because I feel with their digressive valving they’re particularly well suited to those who tow/haul a lot on the road as well as being really good offroad. For a pure offroad rig I think I’d lean toward King or Fox.

 

Brake dive, body roll, shaking, bouncing, porpoising, etc, are all what we call “low speed” body motions (as opposed to high speed wheel motions of hitting a bump). The digressive valving allows them to be really “stiff” at damping these motions while still being “soft” to high speed wheel movements (soaking up the bumps). My impression of the ICON front coilovers so far is that they really got it right.

 

Bilstein 5100’s are digressive as well but obviously the valving is different and the ICONs are just a bigger, higher quality shock. In the front where the stroke is short and the forces are high, larger pistons and bearings instead of bushings makes a bigger difference than in the rear.

 

Anyway, I found the 5100s much too soft in low speed damping for my liking--though I should mention I was using the 2007-13 versions which are softer than the 2014+ models. I didn’t have any issues towing or anything like that, more of a desire for better handling all the time than a need for towing. They were much better than the stock Ranchos but not good enough to keep me happy.

 

Of course Bilsteins can be revalved pretty cheaply if one wants to go that route. Another option for the rear—I’m currently running their 5165s with 255/70 valving which is a good shot stiffer than their 2014 5100s and way stiffer than their 2013 5100. So far they seem to be a reasonable match for the ICONs in front but I wouldn’t mind a bit more rebound. I need some more time with them to know if they’ll keep me happy. If so they’re a nice relatively low cost option.

[calgator73]

 

Yeah, you did really load that thing to the max. A 2500 is probably a good fit for you. However, I do think most of the issues you had were fixable--had you started with E rated tires and airbags in the first place you may have had a much better overall experience.

 

Anyway, this is probably as good a thread as any to talk about shocks as they relate to towing: I would encourage people to open their minds to spending a bit more money on shocks than most usually do. The Bilstein 5100’s aren’t bad, but they’re far from the best. I swapped from the 5100’s to a pair of ICON extended travel coilovers in front and the difference is quite dramatic.

 

When you spend ~50K on a new truck you plan to keep for many years, a set of really good shocks that’ll give a dramatically better ride along with dramatically better handling that you will notice every single day is worth a few hundred extra bucks. Especially if you’re a perfectionist type.

 

There are lots of good shocks out there, I went with ICON because I feel with their digressive valving they’re particularly well suited to those who tow/haul a lot on the road as well as being really good offroad. For a pure offroad rig I think I’d lean toward King or Fox.

 

Brake dive, body roll, shaking, bouncing, porpoising, etc, are all what we call “low speed” body motions (as opposed to high speed wheel motions of hitting a bump). The digressive valving allows them to be really “stiff” at damping these motions while still being “soft” to high speed wheel movements (soaking up the bumps). My impression of the ICON front coilovers so far is that they really got it right.

 

Bilstein 5100’s are digressive as well but obviously the valving is different and the ICONs are just a bigger, higher quality shock. In the front where the stroke is short and the forces are high, larger pistons and bearings instead of bushings makes a bigger difference than in the rear.

 

Anyway, I found the 5100s much too soft in low speed damping for my liking--though I should mention I was using the 2007-13 versions which are softer than the 2014+ models. I didn’t have any issues towing or anything like that, more of a desire for better handling all the time than a need for towing. They were much better than the stock Ranchos but not good enough to keep me happy.

 

Of course Bilsteins can be revalved pretty cheaply if one wants to go that route. Another option for the rear—I’m currently running their 5165s with 255/70 valving which is a good shot stiffer than their 2014 5100s and way stiffer than their 2013 5100. So far they seem to be a reasonable match for the ICONs in front but I wouldn’t mind a bit more rebound. I need some more time with them to know if they’ll keep me happy. If so they’re a nice relatively low cost option.

Those Icons are pricey! lol I certainly didn't have any issues with the low or high speed damping on the 5100s. I had debated the D or E tires right off the bat but after adding the shocks I was really worried with how much stiffer the ride would get when unloaded. I wonder if the odd vibrations I experienced were related to frame beaming. Regardless...the 2500 seems to do everything better. Thought the ride with ranchos would suck based on the comments of others but so far so good.

[sean.wood.98]

I have a 2013 1500, 5.3 3.42 gears. I pull a TT dry 7600, loaded 8500 and when it was factory it pulled decent but bounced more than I liked. Added rancho rs9000xl shocks and airlift airbags with heavy duty compressor. I purchased 9000s for the adjustable rebound. Air bags to assist the rear sag and control. I had all installed professionally and it was the best money spent. No sag, limited bounce and truck feels incredibly stable. I did add Volant cool air intake for added power and now my truck pulls the TT better than I expected. I am very happy with this configuration.

[cansled]

I have a 2013 1500, 5.3 3.42 gears. I pull a TT dry 7600, loaded 8500 and when it was factory it pulled decent but bounced more than I liked. Added rancho rs9000xl shocks and airlift airbags with heavy duty compressor. I purchased 9000s for the adjustable rebound. Air bags to assist the rear sag and control. I had all installed professionally and it was the best money spent. No sag, limited bounce and truck feels incredibly stable. I did add Volant cool air intake for added power and now my truck pulls the TT better than I expected. I am very happy with this configuration.

What airlift airbags did you install? Loadlifter 5000 Ultimate, Loadlifter 5000, or the smaller ridecontrol?

[sean.wood.98]

5000 ultimate single control. I have no need for independent lift since I pull trailers only. Gauge/control sits next to my prodigy 2. Works great after hook up and on the road

[tommy wagner]

I use a propride 3P hitch. Tows incredible. The truck sits level and handling is extremely predictable with no wiggle, no sway. I cruise at 55/60 without issue. My tires are OEM 18s, running at 40psi. My tongue is just over 1150 loaded ready to go with full propane tanks.

 

Can you post a picture of the amount of sag you're seeing, or post measurements of before and after sag prior to distributing the weight? What works for me and is a general rule of thumb regardless of what hitch you use is to apply tension to the WD bars until the front measures at within 1/2" prior loading the trailer onto the ball.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gmyeah]

Interesting perspective. I just traveled

800 miles pulling a 7,000 pound enclosed car hauler with my one week old 6.2 Max Tow and it performed brilliantly on all accounts. I too came from a 5.3 Half ton marshmallow and a 2500HD Duramax that rode like a buckboard. I personally consider my current truck as the better all around vehicle for only pulling 7,000 lbs. The truck felt well planted cruising 75-80. Very happy and personally consider this truck the Holy Grail for a half ton truck.

what type of gas mileage to you see when pulling that 7000 pound trailer? Just curious.....I'm considering upgrading my 1/2 to a 6.2 max tow.....and am curious on what your mileage is with that load and as a daily driver......highway miles / arond town miles? Thanks.

[Dr. ice]

what type of gas mileage to you see when pulling that 7000 pound trailer? Just curious.....I'm considering upgrading my 1/2 to a 6.2 max tow.....and am curious on what your mileage is with that load and as a daily driver......highway miles / arond town miles? Thanks.

I got 12.5 on my 800 mile trip and ran between 65-70 most of the time and up to 80 on down hill sections. Today, I went 207 miles, mostly highway and averaged 22.5 with most of my driving in the 65-70 range. With my 09 GMC 1500 I would typically get about 10.5 pulling the same load and in the 19 range on the highway. The 6.2 would flat out walk away from my old 5.3 without breaking a sweat! Super impressed with the power, handling and gas mileage loaded or unloaded. Awesome truck that exceeds my expectation........and I have owned A LOT of vehicles over my 55 years.

what type of gas mileage to you see when pulling that 7000 pound trailer? Just curious.....I'm considering upgrading my 1/2 to a 6.2 max tow.....and am curious on what your mileage is with that load and as a daily driver......highway miles / arond town miles? Thanks.

I got 12.5 on my 800 mile trip and ran between 65-70 most of the time and up to 80 on down hill sections. Today, I went 207 miles, mostly highway and averaged 22.5 with most of my driving in the 65-70 range. With my 09 GMC 1500 I would typically get about 10.5 pulling the same load and in the 19 range on the highway. The 6.2 would flat out walk away from my old 5.3 without breaking a sweat! Super impressed with the power, handling and gas mileage loaded or unloaded. Awesome truck that exceeds my expectation........and I have owned A LOT of vehicles over my 55 years.

[gmyeah]

Great. Thanks for the quick reply....you're making my decision a lot easier. I'm liking what I'm hearing from yourself and others on the 6.2L Max......

[sugarjohnson]

I have 14 Silverado 6.2L with max tow. I also tow a 30 ft TT all summer long. In fact my truck is set up primarily for towing since its not my daily driver. Trailer weighs in at about 5800# loaded with 500# tongue weight. I use an equalizer WD hitch. Truck has 4 Bilstein 5100 fronts set on 3rd highest setting, Timbrens and tuned. My truck sits level when hooked up. Pulls just fine and will actually hold 6th gear on the flats with cruise. I have a new PML deep tranny pan coming that will add 2 quarts of fluid, some extra cooling and a drain. Bilsteins and Timbrens help a lot with stability. The Timbrens are engaged but barely compressed with 500# HW.