Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Yes as far as it will go, but raising the gas makes them closer together.

Once your muscle memory adapts to the new locations you'll find that with the seat adjusted they will seem lower.

I pull the telescopic wheel all the way out and move the seat back a little this way the pedals are farther away.

You'll also find if you lower the front of the seat all the way and adjust height of the rear of the seat you can keep your heels on the floor and with the pedals at the right locations it's much easier to navigate the pedals

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not everybody has the telescoping wheel. Also I don't like the feeling when the seat back is higher than the front of the seat, makes me feel like I'm about to fall out of the seat. I would hate the seat to be like that when I'm riding country roads, especially the once up in Virginia. I need the front of my seat higher than the rear of it so I feel more "planted" in the seat, especially since it's bucket seats.

 

I don't have a problem with the pedal positions, just pointing those out lol.

Posted

Ive always liked the pedal spacing horizontally on GMs. But I'm 6', 240 lbs, power lifters build, with size 14 boots. So I kinda need the extra space. Never really paid attention to the difference in height though.

 

I would try what the one guy said

 

Lower your pedals as low as possible

 

Then disconnect the power wire to the brake pedal adjuster.

 

Then use your pedal adjustment switch to raise your pedals, but it will only raise your gas pedal.

Posted (edited)

This is embarrassing lol, but here it goes...

As ghetto as this is... The picture below shows my pedal set-up for the last two months.

Yes, that is a rubber door-stop attached to my gas pedal with two zip-ties.

It sux that I had to resort to this on a 55K car. But, it has helped tremendously and only costs $5!!! My pedals are perfectly aligned now.

 

dQBLK2P.jpg

 

I still think this is part of the issue. Some people want a car and buy a fancy truck and expect it to be like fancy cars of similar cost. I'm guilty of it in in a lot of ways. But, when I'm tromping around in size 12 hunting boots caked with mud, the pedals make more sense. Guys that hunt, farm or other industrial/commercial users, have different needs than you and I when we have our Florsheim penny loafers on commuting to work.

 

If GM were to offer more configurations, it'd raise costs.

 

You might look at just the gas pedal extension from this outfit.

 

If lateral spacing is still too large for your liking, you could have a clamp on steel piece made to extend the right side of the brake pedal. Or if you want to permanently modify it, have a piece welded to the pedal. But keep in mind you'd probably want to replace that modified part with a OEM part before selling the truck. The OEM brake pedal part is $65.

Miller%20pedal%20extenders_zpspj1bv4p1.j

Edited by spurshot
Posted

I'm 5'4" and find the pedal location and spacing no problem. But I've driven a lot of trucks, some medium and heavy truck also. I don't find the spacing any different than other trucks I've owned.

 

Agree with the post about the brake pedal feel on the truck. In the past i have always felt GM products were "under braked" not so with my 15 silverado. They feel strong and were strong when pulling a heavy load on vacation. Yes i have trailer brakes but the truck cab rear and bed were loaded with gear. Despite that i never had any brake fade on the downgrades. I always felt like there was plenty of pedal left. Just my .02. But GM got the brakes right on these trucks

Posted (edited)

Glad the PO figured out a solution, but this is something I had never thought of or considered.

 

I drove my GMT800 for 11 years without ever thinking about the pedals or spacing, and I jumped into my brand new 2015 like nothing had changed (drivability wise - but holy crap what a better truck!) So the spacing and depths are completely "normal" to me. I'm 5'8".

 

The brake pedal feel on my GMT800 was like a sponge. They have a very nice feel in the 2015. Firm, yet I don't feel like my face is going to go through the windshield if I hit them too hard.

Edited by 67ChevyRedneck
Posted

My GMT800 2500 had the best brakes I've driven. Very confidence inspiring. I do know the GMT800 1500 had puny brake calipers and rotors in comparison. I may be using my 2500 brakes as my reference on this 1500, which may be slightly unfair.

  • 3 years later...
Posted
On 8/5/2015 at 1:18 AM, bass mechanic said:

I have the same frustration, and for me it is a safety issue. any other vehicle has always had the pedals closer in height. the problem is I used to bump my foot on the brake when lifting from the gas. safety issue to say the least as in a panic maneuver I may not be able to get to the brake in time after another attempt.

so here is what I did for both my 14 and my 15

1. move the pedals all the way to the floor

2. disconnect the speedo cable that adjusts the brake height

3. move the gas pedal forward while the brake stays at the lowest position.

4. press memory button and hold the memory setting 1 or 2 depending on what driver preset you use until it beeps 2 times.

 

you'll find the truck a lot easier to drive and the throttle more responsive since you don't have to reach so far to press it and youll find the brake and gas are a lot closer to each other.

 

the only other option is to remove the brake pedal and find a way to bend it more straight. I am just waiting for someone to die because the brake pedal is positioned too high and the NTSB gets involved so GM will actually listen.

 

I've complained about this several times and even GM customer service from this forum suggested I contact my local dealer which I have done with no follow-up on their end.

 

I have a fix so my issue is resolved. honestly I don't know why anyone needs to move the pedals anyway. unless your wife is very short!

Hey Fellow Sierra Owners, 

 

First off, sorry to resurrect a dead topic. I just bought a new Sierra, and I really love the car except for the high brake pedal height Vs the gas pedal. 

I tired following Bass Mechanics steps, however for the life of me I cannot find the speedo cable that adjusts the brake height as mentioned in item 2. 

 

Best Regards,

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Posted

I agree with the op. When I'm driving my truck in the city for long periods of time, my right asscheek feels overworked from lifting so high to reach the brake pedal. Also my right inner thigh is a little sore almost like I have a knot in it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 525 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 287,500 Mile Service   8/13/2026   Reset Fuel Trims   Since the work done in the previous post there was a good improvement in response in all areas except right after a fill up where the LTFT would go -20%+ for about four miles while the STFT was near neutral. Before the work they both went very negative for a few miles after a fill up but act normal thereafter.    We did a systems check of the vapor recovery system for functionality and ability to hold a vacuum. That checked out fine. But this doesn't mean the charcoal canister is dead in the water. Testing that is next up. For now the reset of the fuel trims.    I intentionally shorted the fill exactly two gallons to eliminate any chance of filling the canister. On start up the trims were behaving normally until I got up and rolling where the LTFT went -10 / -11%% but the short was + 2 to 0%. Within a mile the the STFT offset the LTFT and by 2 miles they were neutral. HUGE improvement but still not hunky-dory.    I'll watch them for a few days. Perhaps another tank where I will fill completely to 'first click' and compare. Meanwhile on the hunt for a new canister and I'll toss another purge value at it for good measure. Pending the outcome of the canister test that is. Progress of any kind is welcome.    Fuel economy improvement with bringing hole #3 back to the living was a noticeable bump to the positive. Even on the few miles I drove after the refill I already see another bump up by the trims reset.     She's purring like a kitten with a warm bowl of milk.    BTW, adding 50 rpm to the idle took the majority of the negative timing out on cold start up and leaned the cold idle. No longer burbles in the cat. What a dumb way to heat a cat.      
    • Yeah, shame I can’t really get that filter easily anymore. Running a PureOne. Your fave!    TAN would be neat to see. Confirmation I ran it too long probably. 🤣
    • My son and I both bought new trucks in 2017. Both of us immediately put Truck Covers USA American Roll Covers on our trucks. My son still has his truck and it never sees the inside of a garage. We live in Alabama, so not much snow. My truck was my daily driver and was in the garage when I wasn't driving it or at work. No issues with either cover even after almost 9 years. About a year ago I sold my truck to my brother and bought a 2025 Silverado 2500. The second thing that I put on that truck was a new Truck Covers USA cover. They are very well made and have a very positive locking system. I looked at a Retrax and my concern was the way that the cover locked to the rail. BTW, the first thing I put on the new truck was step bars. Those new trucks are high!
    • The Allison 10 speed torque converter doesn't "lock up" like the previous transmissions. It has 4 operational modes; open, slip, transition from open to slip; transition from slip to open. I have an Edge CTS3 monitor and I monitor transmission torque converter slip. Step on the gas and you get a little slip. Take your foot off the gas and you get a little negative slip. I have not found a way to display the torque converter mode beyond that. My Edge CTS3 also displays something that our trucks should already display, the current gear. I also monitor throttle body position and engine load. If I see the engine load getting too high, I'll manually drop a gear.
    • Nice result. Your filter is working well  I'd have like to have seen the acid number for this sample. Curious type that I am. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...