Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

OR, TO PUT IN OFFICIAL TERMS,

 

#PIT5233B: Normal Characteristic - Hard Or Unable To Rotate Ignition Key From The Off Position - (Mar 2, 2015)

Subject: Normal Characteristic - Hard Or Unable To Rotate Ignition Key From The Off Position

 

Models: 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2015 Chevrolet Colorado, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2014 GMC Sierra 1500

2015 GMC Canyon, Sierra, Yukon Models

Without Keyless Start (RPO BTM)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This PI was superseded to update Models. Please discard PIT5233A.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern

A steering column lock has been incorporated into the ignition key housing assembly as standard equipment. If the steering wheel is turned with the ignition key in the off position, this may cause excessive pressure between the lock plate and lock pin. The next time the ignition key is rotated from the "Off" to the "On" position, it may be difficult or unable to be rotated.

Recommendation/Instructions

The steering wheel will need to be rotated in either direction (depending on how the locking pin engaged to the locking plate) to alleviate the pressure between the steering column lock pin and lock plate. This will allow the ignition key to rotate from the "Off" position. The ignition key may need to be rotated at the same time the steering wheel is being rotated.

Customer Information

Please communicate to the customer this condition is a normal operating characteristic of their vehicle. It will not impact the designed performance or reliability of the vehicle. Please share this information with the customer, including a copy of this message.

Thank you for this reply as the dealer did not notify me of this. However it would seems to me that GM at least realizes this as a problem and my best guess is that this is a design flaw that GM needs to take full responsibility for and remedy the situation. Of course we all know how they hate the cost of recalls.

  • Like 1
Posted

I had this happen to me one time . I used the remote start to start the truck and the wheel unlocked and the key turned .

I'll try this next time it locks up. Hope it works, thanks.

Posted

Owner of a 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab ordered and bought new in June 2013. On several occasions after vehicle is parked and shut off, ignition key is inserted to start vehicle and the key will not turn. Only known remedy is to pull hard on the steering wheel in a left or right rotation while turning key at same time to unlock an otherwise locked ignition/steering wheel. Finally after 3-4 times to the dealer, the service department gets problem to repeat for them. My service ticket states, "Tech found ignition key won't turn when steering column is in the locked position. Steering wheel has to be turned very hard to release the key. - GM STATES THAT THIS IS NORMAL OPERATION. No repairs needed at this time. " This is NOT normal operation! GM is either crazy or thinks I am (we are) stupid! Shame on GM for this comment. I will follow up soon with GM requesting a buy back which is too bad as otherwise I like the truck.

From page 9-24 of the manual:

 

The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center. If this happens, move the steering wheel from right to left while turning the key to ACC/ACCESSORY.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you for this reply as the dealer did not notify me of this. However it would seems to me that GM at least realizes this as a problem and my best guess is that this is a design flaw that GM needs to take full responsibility for and remedy the situation. Of course we all know how they hate the cost of recalls.

 

 

What part of this is normal operation of the steering wheel lock system are you missing. It is in the manual and GM has advised you as well as several members. All cars do this, if you don't want yours to do this then don't grab or rotate the steering wheel after you have removed the key and you wont have the issue. Pretty simple to do, or you can make it as hard as you want and then try to blame someone else because you don't want to heed what the manual and manufacture state.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

What part of this is normal operation of the steering wheel lock system are you missing. It is in the manual and GM has advised you as well as several members. All cars do this, if you don't want yours to do this then don't grab or rotate the steering wheel after you have removed the key and you wont have the issue. Pretty simple to do, or you can make it as hard as you want and then try to blame someone else because you don't want to heed what the manual and manufacture state.

I suspect that I should be more conscientious that after I remove the key to not turn the steering wheel. I hope that it's as simple as that.

Posted

First, people complain about GM's switches turning too easy, now they're complaining that they turn too hard. Are you people never satisfied? :devil:

Posted (edited)

First of all I would like to say thanks to all that have responded and offered suggestions to me to relieve this issue. So far for the two best suggestions are (1) when parking the vehicle and turning it off, remove the key from the ignition and do not turn the steering wheel. (2) if upon entry ready to start vehicle and key will not turn, try the remote start. I hope that this does the trick as I would rather keep the truck than deal with the b.s. of a buy back or whatever. Overall it is a good truck and does what I need it to do.

 

But I've got a bone to pick about this being "normal" operation as though me being a non-gearhead type, this is far from "normal" in my humble opinion based on being 60 years old and never, ever heard of this before. When it first happened in 2014, neither the dealership or GM had any idea of what I was talking about. If they didn't know, how is it normal operation? Personally and through my business in the last 20 years I have purchased new 12-15 new Chevys (including 4 other trucks) and 5-10 other brands as well. I've owned 20-30 other used cars in my life and I have never, ever heard of this problem and I refuse to accept it as being "normal."

 

Surely I am not the only person out there that upon the purchase of a new car sits down with the owners manual and reads it cover to cover absorbing every word. Instead I referred to the dealer and GM and they didn't know themselves so I refuse to accept this as normal operation.

 

Hopefully it won't lock up again as I attempt to remember to never turn the steering wheel after removing the key from the ignition and if it does I hope that the remote start will alleviate the issue.

 

Until then thanks to you all for your help. I will keep you posted. Might be awhile. Best regards to all.

Edited by Phidi2014
Posted

I know it's the lock and it is normal, but my truck sits on my driveway with the wheels straight and every morning I have to pull REALLY hard on the steering wheel for the lock to release and the key to turn. It doesn't make me mad or anything, but it's rather annoying when you just want to get going.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I have noticed this a few times on my truck because I occasionally grab the steering wheel and turn it when getting out of my truck. It does seem to lock up a little quicker than other vehicles I have driven though.

 

First time I ever experienced this was in my dads 1999 Dodge Ram when I was 16. I had parked and gotten back in to drive and the key wouldn't turn. I panicked haha. But just turning the wheel takes the pressure off the locking mechanism so the key is able to turn. It is 100% Normal but I can see how some people could have driven for a long time and never experienced it.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

The key in my 2015 Silverado 1500 is hard to turn either starting or turning off. It certainly is irritating. I drove my neighbor's 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 and his key turns like butter either way.

Posted

How about applying the parking brake when in Neutral and letting your foot off the brake and then shift to Park so the weight of the truck is on the rear brake shoes instead of the pawl in the automatic transmission?

 

And to eliminate the problem caused pulling on the steering wheel and jamming the steering wheel lock, install a driver's assist handle on the driver's "A" pillar to match the one on the passenger side. It should be standard as far as I'm concerned, but GM offers the part aftermarket for less than $50....and worth every penny, even if you have the assist step.....no more grabbing the steering wheel to get in or out!

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Hi all, I have a 2015 Silverado and yesterday when I unlocked my truck and went to start it the key would not turn.  Unsure what I did when I exited the vehicle but the steering might have been turned.  Anyway to remedy the issue.  I exited the vehicle, locked it up and used the auto start feature to start the truck and things were fine again.  All subsequent starts worked fine.  But now I will be sensitive to the position of the steering wheel and ensure I do not move it and pull on it as the posts indicated.  Thanks, Jere

  • 1 year later...
Posted

My 2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD does not have a steering lock and just started doing this fairly recently after 100,000 miles. None of our other GM trucks have ever done this, some with well over 200,000 miles (1986, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1998, 2000, 2003, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2007, 2008, 2008, 2013, 2015)

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I know this is an old thread but wanted to share my experience (2018 Silverado LTZ) or those who might have this problem... and go searching for the solution. Last night I pulled into the gas station in a tight left wheel radius and turned off the truck and fueled up. Got back into the truck (using handle on pillar, not steering wheel) and went to start it up. Inserted ignition key and it wouldn't turn. My previous experience is, gently move steering wheel while trying to turn key... but when I did this I couldn't move it to the right..... so while "jiggling" it the wheel inadvertently locked up to the left. Now there is no "play" in the steering wheel. Frustrating! So there I sat with my hazard lights on because my otherwise perfectly normally operating truck is now stuck. Tried remote start, vehicle started fine but steering did not unlock. Felt helpless. So I got a snack and came back to the truck. Never underestimate the power of a good snack lol. Then I tried something unscientific... I put the key in ignition gently with my left hand, (instead of right), thinking that a imperceptible adjustment in key position *might* make a difference. And it did, although probably just a coincidence. I can't really pinpoint what happened to fix the problem, although I do know that the steering wheel wouldn't move at all prior to inserting ignition key, so I didn't bother with that. The steering magically unlocked and I was able to start up and get the hell out. My first experience with this characteristic of "normal" operation. For the future I guess I'm going to make it easier on myself and slightly turn the wheel in opposite direction of radius before I turn off the truck.

 

If this doesn't help anyone I hope you at least got a good laugh out of it!

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I have a 2017 Chev HD 3500 with 6. liter gas engine. 75K on it. I havent run the truck for 10 days and today it's -20 F here in Mpls. I went out now after 2weeks, and the key WON'T turn nor the steering wheel. I wiggled it every way, flipped key over, tried it all. Now I'm wondering, IF the battery is low or dead, will that be the reason ? Any suggestions ? I mean, do you need a charged battery to get the key/ wheel to move ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...