Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What do you guys do with rotors Aftermarket replacements? Or have rotors turned? Do they still turn rotors?

Posted

I've done both. I had mine turned a few months ago trying to track down a vibration.

A shop did them for something like $10 each.

A lot cheaper than new ones and ruled out a possible source of the vibration.

Posted

Still Have factory original ones still on and i think that's better rotors than aftermarket ones?

Posted

Still Have factory original ones still on and i think that's better rotors than aftermarket ones?

My experience has been that aftermarket rotors from premium brands are less likely to warp. They will have been properly stress relieved during manufacture. That was a problem with my last truck. The rotors warped. I turned them, and they continued to warped more. Same issue on my wife's infinity. I put EBC rotors on the front of my 2008 truck and my wife's infinity. They are still true. I turned the OEM rears on the 2008 truck. They warped again.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

EBC Pads and rotors. How do they perform? Better than AC Delco parts? My 2006 ext cab is starting to get a little brake wear on the front with probably a little warp. Can feel a pulse starting when applying brakes. Pads are at 55% ish.

Posted

Update on this got rotors turned last week. Going to see how long they last.

Posted

Centric rotors and AC Delco ceramic pads...

 

That rear rotor/pad combo went on together just about two years ago and wear is minimal, along with dust. I would highly recommend this setup!

 

Up front I have unknown brand rotors with AC Delco pads, so far a very good setup as well. I've never had issues in hard braking situations whether it's in city traffic or high speed high grade descents.

 

Front and back can go around a month without a wash and I'll have little to no dust, my wheels definitely appreciate it.

 

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

Posted

To each his own I guess. The price for stock replacement rotors has came way down over the years. I no longer turn them, in fact the machinist that builds all my engines and stuff quit doing them all together. He told me the price of new cutters made it no longer profitable.

Posted

To each his own I guess. The price for stock replacement rotors has came way down over the years. I no longer turn them, in fact the machinist that builds all my engines and stuff quit doing them all together. He told me the price of new cutters made it no longer profitable.

Agreed, rotors are relatively cheap and no one will turn them for anywhere near 10 dollars around me anyway... My OCD forces me to replace rotors when I do pads

Posted

My only experience with turning rotors was with my previous truck. I got them turned (factory rotors) and then started getting the brake shake within 15k miles so I ended up replacing them anyway. I haven't even contemplated having rotors turned ever since. Not worth my time to turn them and then have the shakes again so soon.

Posted

Centric rotors and AC Delco ceramic pads...

 

That rear rotor/pad combo went on together just about two years ago and wear is minimal, along with dust. I would highly recommend this setup!

 

Up front I have unknown brand rotors with AC Delco pads, so far a very good setup as well. I've never had issues in hard braking situations whether it's in city traffic or high speed high grade descents.

 

Front and back can go around a month without a wash and I'll have little to no dust, my wheels definitely appreciate it.

 

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

Same experience here. Like the ceramic pads and centric rotors. I would stay away from the EBC pads simply because of the dust they generate.
Posted

It is a crap shoot with rotors being made in China and who knows where. I have replaced rotors with aftermarket and had good luck. I have replaced rotors and had them be worse than the warped factory ones. Had the factory ones turned and they were fine and some were not.

 

Bizarrely I have 1970ish Pontiacs with the original rotors and they are still perfect.

Posted

I too replace the rotors every time I replace pads. My first set I went with Powerstop slotted rotors and Hawk LTS pads but changed them out 2 months later because I couldn't stand the brake dust. Replaced with Akebono pads (supposedly who makes the factory pads) and AC Delco original rotors (where actually stamped Bosch).

 

I still have the Powerslot and Hawk pads so I might throw them on again when I need new brakes and just deal with the dust. No sense in buy new ones if I have some sitting around. I'll just have to wash the truck more often, or at least the wheels.

 

I replaced my dad's '07 Avalanche, sister's '06 Envoy and Brother-in-law's '03 Trailblazer all with AC Delo Advantage pads and rotors and they have all been great.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...