Jump to content

How much 4WD driveline noise is normal?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm a veteran 4wd truck owner. I've built straight axle toyotas with 38's and setup my own gears. My '14 Silverado is bone stock. Stock tires and all. Today I used 4wd on my construction site and noticed a lot of driveline noise and bind. More than I'm used to. I thought the front diff was open. I'm talking a good amount of front end noise with the wheels just about straight. Yes I'm in the dirt. Just seems like a lot of front end noise for my liking. Put it in 4auto, i get 4wd traction and no noise. Anyone else with the new body truck have this? I might do a cell video on my out tonight leaving the job site trailers. I figured a late model open diff IFS setup would be MUCH quieter. I'm changing my oil this Sat morning. While i'm up under there I'll check the CV joints and the whole front end for anything odd. I remember driving my dad's 2002 S10 4x4 and it had push button 4wd. Nothing close to this noise.

Posted

Leaving the job site 4wd had much less noise, but still there. I think this is a case of having a new 4wd system. Needs a little bit of use....

Posted

Leaving the job site 4wd had much less noise, but still there. I think this is a case of having a new 4wd system. Needs a little bit of use....

Probably gears need a bit of wear in. Mine is quite, same as my 99 Silverado z71.

Posted

I would get that checked out. I've had 3 trucks over the past 11 years. For 2 of them the driveline was quiet as a mouse in 4 wheel drive. The third, my Dodge Dakota, had a lot of driveline noise and eventually I had to have the transmission, transfer case, and front differential re-built. So in my limited personal experience, noise = bad.

Posted

If it's "whine", I'd say probably normal without me hearing it; if it's clunking, chattering, metal on metal type noise, head to the dealer....not normal.

Posted

no clunking. It's a almost like a tire rubbing a wheel well sound from the front. The noise is from the front diff. When in 2wd, does the front diff spin, or is there some kind of actuator in the diff that disengages the gears from the CV?

Posted

The noise your hearing is coming from the "T" case, check the fluid level, mine was making the noise in 4WD after checking I had to add almost a quart till the oil run out the hole now is really quiet. This was when the truck was new. You are going to hear some noise.

Posted

If you are using 4High, you should expect some noise as there is a speed mismatch between front and rear any time the front wheels are turned away from straight ahead. On dry roads, any turning while using 4High will cause nasty wheel hopping due to the mismatch.

 

Normally in poor traction, which we had a LOT of this last winter, I'll use 4Auto which permits different speeds of the front and rear drive shafts, with a slight loss of traction and directional stability on very poor surfaces. 4High locks the front and rear drive shafts so the truck wants to go straight. I found this setting to work actually better on icy/slushy roads. But it might make noises when you hit spots with good traction and the front wheels are not straight ahead.

 

In 4Auto there shouldn't be any weird noises at all.

Posted

Used a lot of 4wd on my job site today again. Much quieter. 95% of the noise is gone. I'm convinced it's b/c it's a new system. On my way out a semi truck hauling a low-boy got stuck out front of the gate. I used a crane strap and 4 low. I was doing a 4 wheel burnout for a second. I gave up and told him call in a wrecker. I'm not destroying my truck b/c you're an idiot. But the point is I proved that 4wd is working great. After that I have no noises at all, just a little bit of binding which is normal. I think the noises I heard was due to the truck being new. Just surprised my straight axle F250 didn't even make any noises in 4wd. Figured the IFS would be even better. Oh well, it works, nosies are all but gone. No problems... I just got nervous when I heard noise in a IFS '14 truck.

Posted

Update. Did my oil change today. Check all the fluids in the truck. Front diff oil looks good, but it was low. No leaks. I really had to stick my finger down in there to get oil. I added some 75/90 Mobil 1 gear oil I had. Probably added 4-6oz and it still did not get it running out of the fill hole. Yes I was on my level garage floor. I think the noises I've been hearing have something to do with how low that front diff is. IMO. The 4-6oz I added got the level to where I stuck my finger in there and could easily get oil. Still not full though. I'm at 24,XXX miles right now. At my next oil change which should be around 31,500k I will plan on doing the front and rear diffs with 75/90 Mobil 1. Rear diff had the oil changed at 16k when a RR axle seal went bad. Front diff has no leaks and still has factory fill oil.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...