Jump to content

Considering a ProCharger Supercharger

fondupot

By fondupot
in Engines & Drivetrain

Recommended Posts

Jennabear Senior Enthusiast

Jennabear

Posted
Posted

Prochargers are great kits, but are typically for race vehicles. For a DD it is not the FI I would recommend. Either way, feel free to hit us up for pricing; we can usually beat anyone's price.

 

Yes, the Prochargers can be tuned for after install, so long as the installer did not lock it. We would recommend the scan cable or AutoCal.

 

Sent from my fone.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply
WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

Prochargers are great kits, but are typically for race vehicles. For a DD it is not the FI I would recommend.

 

Could you go into a little more detail on this? After doing some research I figured they would be a perfect DD setup since the Procharger unit is self contained and does not tap into the engines oil system. Maintenance schedule on it is same as the engine, every 5-6k miles. Air going through a dedicated intercooler away from the engine probably helps keeps temperatures low for daily driving and towing too.

Jennabear Senior Enthusiast

Jennabear

Posted
Posted

 

Could you go into a little more detail on this? After doing some research I figured they would be a perfect DD setup since the Procharger unit is self contained and does not tap into the engines oil system. Maintenance schedule on it is same as the engine, every 5-6k miles. Air going through a dedicated intercooler away from the engine probably helps keeps temperatures low for daily driving and towing too.

Procharger is a centrifugal supercharger, which makes boost linearly with RPM. If it makes 9psi @ 6000RPM, you are only going to be able to see 3 @2000RPM.

 

A twin screw or roots supercharger (Magnacharger or Whipple) is a positive displacement blower and will provide full boost instantly. 9psi @6000RPM and 9psi@2000RPM.

 

A centrifugal makes maximum torque at maximum RPM. A positive displacement makes maximum torque at lower RPM than stock.

 

Sent from my fone.

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

Procharger is a centrifugal supercharger, which makes boost linearly with RPM. If it makes 9psi @ 6000RPM, you are only going to be able to see 3 @2000RPM.

 

A twin screw or roots supercharger (Magnacharger or Whipple) is a positive displacement blower and will provide full boost instantly. 9psi @6000RPM and 9psi@2000RPM.

 

A centrifugal makes maximum torque at maximum RPM. A positive displacement makes maximum torque at lower RPM than stock.

 

Sent from my fone.

Lol, same thing I said in post 6.

 

Don't get us wrong, they are street-able, just not near as street friendly as positive displacement. Especially if you use your truck as a... well... a truck.

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

Don't let this thread die Fondu...

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

SirManny Enthusiast

SirManny

Posted
Posted

Hmm im looking into deleting the AFM and doing the cam and headers at the same time. Have thought about supercharging as well this was a good thread with good info. Thanks.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't let this thread die Fondu...

 

 

Sent from Off Driller Side

 

 

i dont think I am going to be doing anything right now. I may be searching for a new job shortly. So it might not be a good idea to be throwing down my savings.

WendysOrBust Enthusiast

WendysOrBust

Posted
Posted

 

 

i dont think I am going to be doing anything right now. I may be searching for a new job shortly. So it might not be a good idea to be throwing down my savings.

Lets be honest here, Procharged Truck > Job Security

 

:P

66nova Senior Enthusiast

66nova

Posted
Posted

I went through this same debate about 2 years ago when I was researching forced induction. I was sold on a ProCharger. Then I talked with Justin a bit more about it. He recommended the Maggie for my heavy pig based on why I wanted it. Daily driving and towing a few times a year.

 

I absolutely love it! The drivability of it is unmatched in my opinion. It may not be the fastest in the quarter mile, but truck for truck boost level for boost level I would not back down from a ProCharger truck. It makes so much bottom end its unreal.

 

At 9lbs of boost my truck has been dynoed at 500hp 500ftlbs at the wheels.

 

It hits 9lbs boost almost as soon as you mash the go peddle.

 

Fact is, you can't go wrong with either kit though.

  • 1 month later...
sailor9908 Enthusiast

sailor9908

Posted
Posted

Just pulled the trigger on the Magnuson’s MP1900 TVS Supercharger Kit and American Racing headers. Now the suspense of waiting for everything to ship...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lets be honest here, Procharged Truck > Job Security

 

:P

 

 

 

I'm glad I didn't buy anything back when I started this......I got laid off! SOB. No big deal, I was only out of work 1 week. Got a new job and I start monday.

 

Maybe spring time will be a good time to get a Super Charger.....

Dirt Daddy Enthusiast

Dirt Daddy

Posted
Posted

I don't have any experience with any other brands than the Whipple that is on my truck.. I can say is its a 100% beast when your in beast mode or I can sit in sweltering Houston summer traffic all day with a 24ft boat behind it. The power is instant with absolutely no lag. I do not have all the spec's because Hennesey does not share them....HPE 650 Kit and she puts down 547hp to the ground. In two wheel drive with TC off its a pure play ground on the street....In auto mode she hooks up as pisses mustang GT's and SS Camaros off all day long........

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 832 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...