New Project - Building first AR style rifle

FishAr · January 8, 2016

I took a look at G&R. I might have narrowed it down to a few complete uppers.

Daniel Defense 16 UGR V5 Middy

Daniel Defense 16 UGR V5 LW Middy

If I find a BCM complete upper I like, would a DD and BCM be two of your top choices? Either one over the other or too close to call?

A mid length gas system is better than a carbine length on a 16" barrel, correct? Is the rail system on the Daniel Defense uppers a standard pictinanny rail? I didn't like the BCM upper because of the keymod rail. I like the way the DD uppers look too. Plus $785 for a complete DD upper? I don't think you can beat that.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out and answer my questions. I've been into guns for a long time but this is my first venture into the AR world so I'm learning. But it's all really interesting.

Daniel Defense is definitely good to go. I have a complete V1, and complete V5, and a mk18 10.3" (upper only). Love every one of them, never any problems.

BlackZ71Silverado · January 8, 2016

Those Spikes ST's are filled with a powder like, grainy material as opposed to weights like the battle proven and tested others. The "H" buffer is the standard weight and proper weight for an M4 Carbine style AR.

The "H2" buffer is the SOCOM standard and will also function properly in a standard M4 Carbine and midlength AR. The H2 is what I run in my duty carbine and also my personal carbines and middy's. Your Spikes ST-T2 buffer is a tad lighter than the standard H2 buffer and should run fine in a midlength system.

The mid-length gas system isn't necessarily "better", it's just different. It's an inbetween option so you are not stuck with either a carbine or rifle length gas system. The mid-length gas system gives you less felt recoil, it's actually a little softer shooting than the carbine length gas system.

I do have a few AR's with the mid-length gas systems (BCM & Daniel Defense) and can definitely tell the differnence in felt recoil over the standard carbines depending on the ammunition I am using.

The middy should get at least an H buffer so you are good to go with what you purchased. It will also cycle properly with the H2 and even heavier H3 using the correct ammo. I have used the hotter M193 type ammunition in a carbine and midlength gas system with an H3 buffer and they both ran without issue. If you plan on using the cheaper and easier to find 55gr. ammo. up to 62gr. ammo., your ST-T2 buffer will be a perfect fit.

When it comes to rail systems, you can purchase whatever you want for teh most part, as long as it's designed to fit your specific length gas system. I prefer the standard picitinny type rail. They have been around forever and all of the others seem to be a fad, they come and go and for some reason people think they need the newest design and keep changing them out. I have tried the keymod rails and really don't care for the way they feel. The standard picitinny design just feels better in my hands and it just plain works. It's really a person preference thing to be honest, either style should fit most peoples needs. Just don't base your purchase descision on the supplied rail system. They are easy to change and there are several different options out there. Either way, just make sure you go wit ha proven quality product, don't buy one because it costs less than the others.

I run Knights Armament and Daniel Defense rails on all of my AR's, both about as good as it gets and both military suppliers. You can pick up "blemished" Knights rails for about half price, same goes for Daniel Defense.......Good luck and be sure to post some pics when your build is complete.

You have done a good job so far in purchasing quality parts. Buying quality is definitely worth the extra cost over the cheap, improperly made parts/rifles. Buying the better firearm parts is worth it over the long run because you have a firearm you can depend on, one that will last a lifetime. No worries about parts braking if you run it hard, and no wondering if your firearm will function properly if you need to use it in a life or death situation. Going with either DD or BCM for your upper is the right way to go. Once you are finished, you should have yourself a good quality AR that will last forever.

Same goes for any type of optic you may purchase. There are several out there that try to copy the quality red dot brands of Aimpoint & EoTech because they are the top two and are copied all the time. The fake China knock-offs are sometimes hard to spot if you are not familiar with the two brands. Either way, be sure to purchase from an authorized dealer because that's about the only way to be sure you are getting the real deal.

If a magnified optic is what you need, the Trijicon ACOG is the way to go IMO. They are expensive but well worth the money and have been proven to last. If Aimpoint, EoTech, Trijicon ACOG can take the abuse of was, they will last you a lifetime.

sprayed99 · January 8, 2016

"Carbon" AKA - PLASTIC.

Don't listen to anyone??? Great idea, none of us know what we are talkign about, especially me.

And what makes you the self proclaimed expert on the topic? I'm not trying to call you out, but you seem to be very directive with your comments. Almost as if you are the authority on the matter and there is only your way to do things. I'm guessing from your avatar you are a LEO and probably current or previous military.

sprayed99 · January 8, 2016

I haven't seem anyone address the issue of over-gassing in any comment here. One of the best things things you can do is get an adjustable gas block.

Mossyoakglock · January 8, 2016

If I wanted to run to 55grn ammo, what weight buffer spring would you recommend?

I hate to ask this but could you suggest the buffer and buffer spring weight for the 55 and 65 grn ammo? I think I'm going to go with the Daniel Defemse upper as well.

Anything else I should get To go with my lower and Daniel defense upper? Buffer spring wise, etc?

BlackZ71Silverado · January 9, 2016

I don't know what the issue is here with some people but I guess I apologize for attempting to point someone in the right direction and suggesting someone use quality parts for their AR.

If I were newer to the platform, I could only hope someone would do that for me. I use quality firearms, buy from well known, proven companies who do things right, and can only recommend those who build their firearms properly.

I have never, nor would I suggest anyone settle for a firearm that doesn't meet the minimal know standard...... I apologize for sharing some of my knowledge of the AR platform.....My mistake I guess.

OP, if you want any advice shoot me a PM. I am not here for a pissing match with people who are looking to start an argument, especially when they are making bad suggestions........

An adjustable gas block is NOT the best thing you can do to an AR. It's actually pointless to use on a standard carbine/rifle. The only time you would really need an adjustable gas block is when you will be firing suppressed, or suppressed with an SBR, and using fine tuned hand loads. Anything other than that and you are wasting your money because it's not necessary........There are those who think it's a cool idea and like to show their buddies.

Overgassing is not an issue with a properly built AR from the companies the OP is dealing with. Overgassing is an issue with companies that use incorrectly sized gas ports.

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sprayed99 · January 11, 2016

An adjustable gas block is NOT the best thing you can do to an AR. It's actually pointless to use on a standard carbine/rifle. The only time you would really need an adjustable gas block is when you will be firing suppressed, or suppressed with an SBR, and using fine tuned hand loads. Anything other than that and you are wasting your money because it's not necessary........There are those who think it's a cool idea and like to show their buddies.

Overgassing is not an issue with a properly built AR from the companies the OP is dealing with. Overgassing is an issue with companies that use incorrectly sized gas ports.

So running an adjustable gas block on a low mass setup is pointless? How about when you want to shoot subsonic rounds? Hey maybe some of us like heavier buffers blah blah blah the list is endless.... but I digress you clearly are the only one on the planet that can build a correct running gun.

Txjose · January 19, 2016

This place is turning into AR15.com.....that is a terrible forum full of elitists,,,,,if you are not building a $8,000 AR then it's junk apparently.

I built my first one with parts that I did a lot of research on

LOWER:

Spikes forged lower

CMMG lower parts kit

Gissle SD-E trigger

David Tubbs spring

Spikes ST T2 buffer

Magpul grip and butstock

UPPER

SPikes forged upper

AIM surplus NiB BCG

BCM Gunfight charging handle

Noveske 16" M249 profile heavy barrel

BCM KMR 13"

Surefire 556 brake

and an EoTech

I love it so much. DO what I did....Build it all yourself and take it to a gunsmith to "look it over" just to have piece of mind. Also have them check the head spacing.