Leveling a 2016 2500HD

rocnrol · March 1, 2016

F it, I'll keep going. Let's look at the aftermarket keys your so fond of.

As Miller pointed out to you, they have a different index to them then the factory keys. But you obviously don't really understand what that means.

The key is a leaver, one end has a square hole in it for the bar, the other has a spot for the adjustment bolt to push against. Imagine a stock key, and let's say the bottom flat of the hole for the bar is parallel to the surface for the adjustment bolt, start cranking in the adjustment bolt until it's bottomed out, and we'll say at this point, that bottom flat is now on a 30* angle.

Now, we're going to build an aftermarket "lift" key. So we make it so that the bottom flat of the hole is no longer parallel with the adjustment flat, but with... say a 10* rotation added to it. You now put that key on the bar, and instead of starting with a flat key, it's pointing to the ground at a 10* angle. Using the stock bolt you start to crank this bolt in now. If you stop at the factory depth of the adjustment bolt, you will have achieved a 10* increase in height at this point.

If you keep going, until it bottoms out, like we did with all the factory parts, we will achieve 40* of lift, instead of only 30*.

wade_660 · March 1, 2016

When you over rotate the bar you take it out of its designed amount of travel which will lead to excess movement in the control arms and they will hit the bump stop. That won't happen with aftermarket keys. .

You have no clue what you're talking about. I won't waste my time trying to explain it. I'll just leave this pic here.

The rusted key is stock vs a leveling key. The hey ends are aligned.

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rocnrol · March 1, 2016

You have no clue what you're talking about. I won't waste my time trying to explain it. I'll just leave this pic here.

The rusted key is stock vs a leveling key. The hey ends are aligned.

^^^^^^^ this!!!

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Jesse Whitney · March 1, 2016

NOTE: This article is an extract from Auto Alliance's web site at www.rancho.com.au

Too often we hear the local workshop, and many 4WD and suspension people, say " Yeah mate! We can crank the bars up 2 inches" when discussing lifting a 4WD fitted with front torsion bars.

While the practise may have merit in some situations, there can be a number of unexpected consequences when lifting a set-up of this type. Many 4WD owners may find it helpful to be 'armed' with the right information before they make their purchase decision.

The torsion bar suspension in an example of an independent front suspension (IFS). With a torsion bar design, there are no leaf or coil springs; just a spring steel rod, fixed to the suspension arms at the front and fixed to the chassis back near the firewall. Torsion bars perform the same function as a coil or leaf spring. They support the vehicle's weight and absorb the movement caused by changes in the distance between the vehicle and the terrain.

An amount of twist,or tension, is placed on the bars just by holding up the weight of the vehicle. When the terrain of the road causes the wheels to be pushed up or down, the torsion bars twist in the direction necessary to allow this movement . As the wheels return to their normal position the bars "unravel".

The resistance the torsion bar offers during this ravel/ unravel action is how the spring action is provided.

As the name of its suspension type suggests, each wheel is free to move 'independently' of each other. This, generally, allows for excellent ride and handling characteristics.For hard-core off-road enthusiasts, the torsion bar suspension design has some real disadvantages. These include limited available wheel-travel, by comparison to a solid axle design, and the difficulty in raising the suspension successfully.

At the rear of the torsion bar is a bolt and lever system that is designed specifically to control the ride height. Straight from the factory, the bolt is adjusted approximatley to the middle or center of the vehicle's range of suspension travel. (ie. the wheels can move the same distance up as they can droop down). To adjust the ride height, one only needs to tighten the adjustment bolt, which forces the lever down, twisting the torsion bar clockwise on the right side of the vehicle, and counter clock wise on the left hand side.. This action forces the upper control arms downwards. It is this 'push-down' affect on the upper control arms which then raises or 'pushes' the vehicle higher. Simple.

Usually when you apply a 'suspension lift', the entire range of travel is moved down away from its chassis or frame. With the torsion bar system, you are really only adjusting the ride height. This is where it pays to be "in- the-know".

The range of available travel is determined by the distance between the bump-stops. The gap between the upper set of bump-stops determines the available downward travel. The gap between the lower bump-stops relates to the upward travel on the wheel. If you check the distance between the upper bump-stops at factory spec, you'll notice that the distance here is often not much greater than two finger spaces. If you adjust your torsion bars, which forces the upper control arms down to raise the vehicle. The gap between the upper bump-stops becomes even more tightly-closed together. This action greatly affects the amount the front wheels can 'droop' from the normal rest height.

Downward wheel travel, is arguably the most important factor in determining whether a vehicle gets stuck, or pushes on in rough terrain. This is because as one of the wheels loses contact with the ground, the other side stops driving and, unless you can have a front diff locker installed, you will only have the traction of the rear wheels to push you along- providing they have firm contact with the ground.

In addition to this, there is a point at which the increase in adjustment pushes the front wheel alignment outside of a correctable range - which can result in erratic steering and abnormal wear on the front tyres and steering components.

Also, if you are going to adjust the original bars, rather than replace them with heavy duty ones, you could experience ride harshness. This is because the stock bars will be tensioned to ( or almost to ) their limit and therefore they will lack the ability to act as a spring.

These factors may have you thinking it might be all too much. But, before you decide to trade your torsion bar vehicle in on something else, you may find these tips helpful.

- Most torsion-bar vehicles can be raised up to 25mm before any real compromise in downward wheel-travel or ride-quality is experienced.

-For 25mm-50mm of adjustment, the fitment of new heavy-duty torsion bars will counter-act against the loss of shock absorption qualities, as the new spring rate requires less adjustment to hold the vehicle weight.

-On some vehicles, the benefits of the increase in height, may out-way the disadvantage of the decrease in available downward wheel travel. But, as one of our customers said to us, while purchasing a pair of heavy-duty torsion bars, " The thing has no real wheel-travel anyway, so, why not have the height and then the ability to fit larger tyres for an even greater increase in ground clearance".

This could be a fair comment for some applications. But wheel-travel and flexibility is not only a essential feature for off-road capability, it is also necessary for the comfort of the driver and passengers.

rocnrol · March 1, 2016

that article was all good until this statement:

"Also, if you are going to adjust the original bars, rather than replace them with heavy duty ones, you could experience ride harshness. This is because the stock bars will be tensioned to ( or almost to ) their limit and therefore they will lack the ability to act as a spring."

again, another person that is not quite understanding how this type of a spring is working. the tension on the bars is not being increased by cranking up the keys, you are simply raising the front end. the rest of the article is looking pretty good, and repeats what I have already said, the harsh ride comes from the upper a arms contacting the upper travel limiter. and the use of "lift keys" wont change this fact. therefor, they are a waste of money.

you are still showing you don't understand either.

Jesse Whitney · March 1, 2016

What is you're address? I will send you a set of keys that i will gladly pay for. Install them in your truck, and put it to the exact height you have it cranked up to right now. If the ride does not improve I will write a post saying that I don't know anything and that I am an idiot that has no place in the automotive world. But when the ride does improve if you are any kind of man you make the post stating that you are wrong.

rocnrol · March 1, 2016

What is you're address? I will send you a set of keys that i will gladly pay for. Install them in your truck, and put it to the exact height you have it cranked up to right now. If the ride does not improve I will write a post saying that I don't know anything and that I am an idiot that has no place in the automotive world. But when the ride does improve if you are any kind of man you make the post stating that you are wrong.

I'm not about to go through this rigamarole to prove a point. I have already stated in other posts I have made concerning my adjusting of the factory keys as to what I think of the resulting ride. because I have taken the suspension from riding on the lower bump stop as delivered from factory, and put the travel purely on the torsion bars, my ride has actually improved, with one caviet to which I have already spoke to. I am not sitting on the upper suspension stop with my upper A arm, but it is close, and if I hit a speed bump in parking lots at the right speed, it does bang off of this stop, so I go slow over the speed bumps. the information is out there for you to see my man, you need to look at it with an open mind and understand it.

brwk · March 1, 2016

I'm probably blind but does anyone remember what the stock front height is or was of their 2016 2500? I think I saw somewhere, 39 1/4" ?

CAtaylor · March 1, 2016

What is you're address? I will send you a set of keys that i will gladly pay for. Install them in your truck, and put it to the exact height you have it cranked up to right now. If the ride does not improve I will write a post saying that I don't know anything and that I am an idiot that has no place in the automotive world. But when the ride does improve if you are any kind of man you make the post stating that you are wrong.

I am not here for a debate but think about it like this. Is 50lbs heavier at 2" off the ground or 6'? The torsion bars work the same way and all the keys do is change the starting point. After the front bumper is off the ground the amount of weight the bars are supporting doesn't change regardless of height.

rocnrol · March 1, 2016

I am not here for a debate but think about it like this. Is 50lbs heavier at 2" off the ground or 6'? The torsion bars work the same way and all the keys do is change the starting point. After the front bumper is off the ground the amount of weight the bars are supporting doesn't change regardless of height.

^^^^^ this, another excellent point in the "discussion"

redwngr · March 1, 2016

I am not here for a debate but think about it like this. Is 50lbs heavier at 2" off the ground or 6'? The torsion bars work the same way and all the keys do is change the starting point. After the front bumper is off the ground the amount of weight the bars are supporting doesn't change regardless of height.

+1

Exactly the same effect as adding a spacer to a coil spring - change the ride height.

The coil spring will still be compressed to the same height.

The torsion spring will still have the same number of 'degrees of twist'.

wade_660 · March 1, 2016

Fixed it for ya

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wade_660 · March 1, 2016

Site won't let me quote what I intended. Good news is OP is probably more confused now that he was before, all due to someone that misinterprets an article and consider it truth. Pm me if I can help OP

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Cthomas07 · March 1, 2016

Well as the originator of the thread I wanted to first day thanks for all the replies. I feel a little guilty it's gotten some of you guys in some pretty heated discussions but it just shows there is obvious passion on the topic and truck knowledge at hand. If it helps clear up any what I'm trying to do-im really not going to major off road with this truck I.e. Rock climbing extreme offroad etc...I will go in the occasional creek and muddy cornfield to recover a deer but my main goal is a better look to the truck while keeping the most ride quality I can. For what it's worth 4WParts here in Indianapolis suggests "on the newer Chevys we suggest just adjusting the torsion bars and adding shock extensions and that should give you about two inches". I then asked about a leveling kit and they basically reiterated the last quote again to me. Sooo not sure if that helps or hurts the argument but I can say that after reading everyone's opinion while also thinking about what 4wheelparts said im still "stuck". Im not questioning anyone's knowledge or validity to their points. I'll probably take my truck in and go with 4wheelpadrts recommendation?? :/