Jump to content

Borla Dual Exhaust Installed


Tong Lu

Recommended Posts

Posted

I had the single straight pipe on the truck for a few months now and I wanted to put a muffler on in preparation for Long Tubes. Went with Borla Dual in Dual out muffler and it sounds amazing. I see people on here that bought the Borla GM cat back for over 1000 bucks, my set up cost 170 for muffler and 2 18 inch black tips from Amazon. Took it to a muffler shop, had them chop off the Y and ran duals to the muffler and out the back for 200 bucks. Here's a clip, took it from my phone so it is very quiet compared to in person.

 

 

Posted

Sounds good.. post up the part # for that muffler. I'm sure some are gonna like that sound. And can you set ur camera further away 10 feet..

Posted

Muffler is Borla 400286 and I will try getting a better video. My wife hates loud exhaust and did not want to participate in the "doucheyness".

 

I went with this muffler because it's basically an X pipe on the inside, no chambers or anything, you can look straight through from one end to another. Prepares the truck for long tube headers down the line.

Posted

Sounds good, how about v4 mode though and Im sure that was mild steel and crush bent. Like comparing apples and oranges really.

Posted

Out of pocket for the borla gm exhaust here is over 1500cdn. I had it thrown in to my weekly payments and added under 5 bucks a week to my payments. Probably the only way i would put the gm borla on. Something to consider for the guys who haven't purchased yet. Southh of the border it probably affects your payments by less than 3USD. Just sayin.

Posted

But you are still paying for it no matter how you look at it and if you add it to your loan then you are paying interest on top of that.

Posted

But you are still paying for it no matter how you look at it and if you add it to your loan then you are paying interest on top of that.

 

Oh you did the same thing with Z71 option, it was an option, this exhaust just happens to be a dealer add on. This isnt a good argument unless you paid cash for your truck.

Posted

I don't know if we are talking about the same thing. The guys says if you can't afford to pay $1000+ for an exhaust then just have it added to your payments. I did pay cash for my truck like I do all purchases but if you think $1000 is too expensive then why add it to your loan?

Posted

I don't know if we are talking about the same thing. The guys says if you can't afford to pay $1000+ for an exhaust then just have it added to your payments. I did pay cash for my truck like I do all purchases but if you think $1000 is too expensive then why add it to your loan?

 

Sorry I didnt mean to call you out on how you paid, more an example. Most people finance a car and dont pay cash, awesome you did though.

 

My point is its splitting hairs on paying interest on dealer installed options vs factory options. He has a good point, if you want that exhaust and havent bought a truck yet this makes sense. Have the dealer add it for 1000 like any other option box people check. No difference. When people finance a vehicle they finance all the options too.

 

Financing a dealer installed option is no different then checking the z71 box, max tow, etc factory options. Id bet you can get dealer to bend on the exhaust price to sell a truck too.

 

On a side note, you will be able to resell that exhaust at any point for 800 plus I guarantee it and probably get stock one in return if you wanted. Nice stainless mandrel bent exhausts hold value very well. Especially one like the GM Borla it seems most everyone would want. Itll get even more valuable when they stop making it.

Posted

I don't know if we are talking about the same thing. The guys says if you can't afford to pay $1000+ for an exhaust then just have it added to your payments. I did pay cash for my truck like I do all purchases but if you think $1000 is too expensive then why add it to your loan?

I found it way easier to pay an extra 5 dollars than come up with the 1600 bones. I look at this way, i don't have 70k in cash laying around but, i can afford to pay $xxx/ week for a loan. So i can get a loan for the All terrain SLE over the SLT and still afford to put the hood deflector, mud flaps and GM borla on the SLE for less than a bone stock SLT. I don't get lane departure warning or heated steering wheel or full leather seats but hey, i can stay in my lane, the steering wheel doesn't get that cold and i'm not into leather. So, good trade as far as i am concerned, Added a bed mat, AFE momentum and BB tune with the $1000 dollars i did have laying around. There, truck complete. Has 99% of the factory options i wanted and 100% of the dealer installed/aftermarket toys i wanted. And my payments are manageable. I set a target payment and built my truck to it. And i took home the factory exhaust with 21 miles on it.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I want the borla single in dual out for my 2016 chevrolet silverado. Is this 3 inch a 3 out and should I open the flapper and delete the resonator? Also, does Borla make a single in dual out muffler? I want it to sound like my z06 corvette with borla. My cousin did this to his 14 silverado and said it sounds good. Just want to know what to tell muffler shop and find a good shop that can handle this job.

Posted

Part of what you are paying for with either the gm borla or just Borla cat back is quality 304 stainless mandrel bent piping. It is a rarity to find either of those from a exhaust shop that cuts up your stock system and then installs x brand muffler. Having stainless pipes means no going back in 5 years when the steel rusts out or having pressure bent pipe that robs power. Granted all most cat backs to is add noise, even a good quality system like Borla doesn't add enough power to be felt.

Posted

Part of what you are paying for with either the gm borla or just Borla cat back is quality 304 stainless mandrel bent piping. It is a rarity to find either of those from a exhaust shop that cuts up your stock system and then installs x brand muffler. Having stainless pipes means no going back in 5 years when the steel rusts out or having pressure bent pipe that robs power. Granted all most cat backs to is add noise, even a good quality system like Borla doesn't add enough power to be felt.

I went to a shop in ct who was charging like 400 ish for an install and they said that it would rust out in 3 years. if I am keeping the truck for the long haul then it makes no sense to pay every 3 years because winter chews it up.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
    • Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...