Jump to content

3500 vs 2500?


Recommended Posts

Posted

The 11.5" axle mainly. One thing to note is if you want an axle geared more towards hauling weight, Banjo style axles are ideal. Our Salsberry type axles are oriented towards towing.

 

Also I thought the 3500 had additional frame cross members...maybe two? Maybe I'm thinking of ford

No difference in frame.

 

Although it was already said I will say it again, all Duramax trucks come with 11.5 rear axle, all of them! The gas 3500 gets this axle as well while the 2500 gets the 14 bolt.

 

You are limited to 18in. wheels on the 3500 from the factory.

  • Replies 31
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

This. Payload is the difference.

 

If the 2500 will comfortably handle the trailer you have now and you will need to upgrade to a dull rear wheel when you get a new trailer anyway, then I'd say go for the 2500 and get the decked out 3500 drw down the road as needed. Especially if there is a much of a cost difference between 2500 and 3500.

 

Something to consider is registration cost between 2500 and 3500. In my state, yearly registration on the 3500 is significantly less due to the higher GVRW (I've been told it has something to do with GVRW being higher than 10k lbs). Not exactly sure, but it gets classified differently by the DMV when determining yearly registration costs. I had a 2015 Ram 2500 and registration was $550 for the year. About 4 months later, I traded it in on a 2016 Silverado 3500 (higher GVRW) and am on the hook for $150 to register it for the year.

 

 

I wish that same idea would be a reality with my heavy trucks. My semi truck tractor costs me almost $1900 a year in registration. Add to that, $550 a year in Federal Highway Use tax. All before it moves 1 mile. And in fuel tax alone, it costs an additional $13,000 a year in taxes. 2 million commercial trucks running around the U.S. and they don't have enough money to repair roads when you add all that up along with the fuel taxes that the car and pickup folks pay at the pump. Somebody is definitely skimming off the top!

Posted

This may be a small thing to some, but going to the 3500, TPMS on GM's are MIA. Anyone that has had issues with a tire pressure monitoring system can understand what I am saying.

Posted

 

 

I wish that same idea would be a reality with my heavy trucks. My semi truck tractor costs me almost $1900 a year in registration. Add to that, $550 a year in Federal Highway Use tax. All before it moves 1 mile. And in fuel tax alone, it costs an additional $13,000 a year in taxes. 2 million commercial trucks running around the U.S. and they don't have enough money to repair roads when you add all that up along with the fuel taxes that the car and pickup folks pay at the pump. Somebody is definitely skimming off the top!

My best guess is that the light duty truck/+10k weight class falls into some small business category other trucks do not. But only a guess.

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Posted

This may be a small thing to some, but going to the 3500, TPMS on GM's are MIA. Anyone that has had issues with a tire pressure monitoring system can understand what I am saying.

I miss my tpms and didn't realize they were not mandatory for 3500 when I purchased. Would not have changed my mind on the truck, but I was bummed when I figured it out. I never had issues on my other trucks and like the peace of mind, especially while towing.

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Posted

Not me. I can tell by the way my vehicle handles when tires have gone low. Trailers...not so much.

 

You can have them installed if you want them....

Posted

I miss my tpms and didn't realize they were not mandatory for 3500 when I purchased. Would not have changed my mind on the truck, but I was bummed when I figured it out. I never had issues on my other trucks and like the peace of mind, especially while towing.

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

This may be a small thing to some, but going to the 3500, TPMS on GM's are MIA. Anyone that has had issues with a tire pressure monitoring system can understand what I am saying.

 

TPMS are not MIA on 3500HD pickups, you need to find one with 10K rating. I just test drove a 2017 3500HD with the 10K rating and it had TPMS, I do not want the TPMS so found a different pickup with 10.8K rating without them. They are a useful tool but I grew up with a tire gauge and still know how to use it.

Posted

TPMS are not MIA on 3500HD pickups, you need to find one with 10K rating. I just test drove a 2017 3500HD with the 10K rating and it had TPMS, I do not want the TPMS so found a different pickup with 10.8K rating without them. They are a useful tool but I grew up with a tire gauge and still know how to use it.

Good to know they have lower GVWR 3500's. Having a 3500 with a 10k rating would be worthless to me. I did hear that 11k and up doesn't require the TPMS.

 

Thanks for the knowledge.

Posted

Went from a 15 and a 16 2500HD Denali to a 17 3500HD Denali. Both Duramax/Allison. No TPMS is great as I like to run the tires at a lower pressure while unloaded for ride comfort. I found little difference between the two on the ride comfort side. Switched from the 18 inch wheels (only size available on 3500HD SRW) to a factory 20 inch wheel and went LT275/65R20 to get the higher-than-factory-18-inch load capacity.

 

Overall, I really no longer see a reason to get the 2500HD. To me, 3500 price point is essentially the same (no tax or registration differences in Michigan) plus I get much more payload capacity with the overload springs and frame stops. Once we hook up our boat, considering pin weight, passengers, and all the gear we throw in the back for a week excursion - have to believe I'm beyond rated limit for 2500HD.

 

Just my .02.

Posted

Went from a 15 and a 16 2500HD Denali to a 17 3500HD Denali. Both Duramax/Allison. No TPMS is great as I like to run the tires at a lower pressure while unloaded for ride comfort. I found little difference between the two on the ride comfort side. Switched from the 18 inch wheels (only size available on 3500HD SRW) to a factory 20 inch wheel and went LT275/65R20 to get the higher-than-factory-18-inch load capacity.

 

Overall, I really no longer see a reason to get the 2500HD. To me, 3500 price point is essentially the same (no tax or registration differences in Michigan) plus I get much more payload capacity with the overload springs and frame stops. Once we hook up our boat, considering pin weight, passengers, and all the gear we throw in the back for a week excursion - have to believe I'm beyond rated limit for 2500HD.

 

Just my .02.

 

ground clearance is rated as much higher on the 2500hd. probably just due to the smaller rear axle on the gassers, but something to think about if you take your truck offroad.

Posted

The only way to get the factory to put TPMS on the 3500 is to also get the C7A option. This limits the cab/box/drivetrain options that will be available.

 

UJM Tire Pressure Monitoring System (does not apply to spare tire)
1 - Included and only available with (C7A) 10,000 lb. (4536kg) GVWR.

 

Which requires the 6.0L and SRW.

 

C7A GVWR, 10,000 lbs. (4536 kg) with single rear wheels
1 - Requires *35743, C35943, *35953 or *35903 models and (L96) Vortec 6.0L V8 SFI engine. Requires (AY0) single-stage air bags.
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 6/28/2017 at 6:08 PM, Buckshot556 said:

Man, keep your truck and you'll be able to buy that Toy Hauler even sooner.

 

My 2500 frame is already drilled and tapped over the rear wheel. I think those are for the helper springs. I may look into installing those on mine

I found it much simpler of a proposition to put Sumosprings in place of the stock bump stops.  Gives 1500 lb of extra support.  I had previously installed a set of McGaughy’s 2” drop shackles to take out the “cat in heat” rake.  The Sumo’s rest right on the axle.   I have thrown over a ton of material in the back and my 2500 just starts to reach level.  I had the Sumo’s installed in about 15 minutes, and that was even removing rear wheels to make the job easier.

Posted

I have been debating the same thing and will probably go 3500 SRW (10,800) after reading this thread. Now I am trying to decide SLT or Denali :)

Posted
On 11/12/2018 at 10:38 PM, Cowpie said:

I found it much simpler of a proposition to put Sumosprings in place of the stock bump stops.  Gives 1500 lb of extra support.  I had previously installed a set of McGaughy’s 2” drop shackles to take out the “cat in heat” rake.  The Sumo’s rest right on the axle.   I have thrown over a ton of material in the back and my 2500 just starts to reach level.  I had the Sumo’s installed in about 15 minutes, and that was even removing rear wheels to make the job easier.

Do you notice a harsher ride with the Sumo's?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,480 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...