Rear lift blocks

bcbz71 · February 11, 2018

Been running the 2" tapered block for 3 years and 44K miles...no issues. My understanding is that the taper is to cant your rear axle for better driveshaft alignment due to the increased lift.

Tyy1907 · February 11, 2018

4 hours ago, bcbz71 said:

Been running the 2" tapered block for 3 years and 44K miles...no issues. My understanding is that the taper is to cant your rear axle for better driveshaft alignment due to the increased lift.

I think so too. Leveling or lifting the transmission pinion angle changes therefore to compensate angled blocks are used.

The tapered blocks - instead of "nose diving" your rear pinion down they'll actually tilt the pinion (rear diff)up. Matching the raised pinion of the front.

Amart88 · February 11, 2018

You may be right, but I would hardly think the angle would be out too much with just a 2" block. really only lifting 1". I have heard on the 3" and up it can become an issue. Also, I have yet to find a 2" flat block, seems every brand is tapered except tuff country. But they only have 3" and up available.

djriv11 · February 12, 2018

I thought I was clear of any vibration issues when I first drove my truck after installing the 2.25" rear Ready Lift blocks, but now I am not so sure. Our roads are pretty brutal here in Michigan right now so it's been tough to get a clean and clear test in on a smooth road. There have been times where I thought I could feel a vibration or a rougher/less smooth ride when cruising down the highway. There seem to be two completely conflicting views on the block tapering. Some say flat blocks are better because even though Tcase and Pinion angles change, they change the same amount. Others say, the taper is to compensate for the changed angles. Has anyone found any 2.25" flat blocks yet from a reputable source?

Tyy1907 · February 13, 2018

This is the problem with mix matching lifts or leaving components out etc. Your gambling on whether ur angles will be ok.

I think I heard somewhere that as long as ur under 2 degrees difference u shouldn't notice. A strait edge on ur pinion flange with a degree gauge would tell you. If u can get a straight edge on with the driveshaft connected, or unhook ur driveshaft and check.

Linecapt · February 13, 2018

I bought the 2.5" leveling kit from Rough Country and installed it myself. I thought I felt the driveshaft or transfer case acting sluggish or binding with the rear blocks in, presuming it was from the angle. So much so, I actually turned them around from how I installed them, because the instruction sheet doesn't tell you (and still doesn't as I just checked it again on their website) which way the angle should face. Loved the look of it, hated the ride. Removed all the components and sent it all back to them. Got a full refund thankfully as they advertise.

kivetts04dmax · July 26, 2018

I just put a leveling kit on that had me stack rear blocks on top of my factory ones..WAIT!! I am not driving it until I get a solid block in there instead of stacking, I have a company truck to drive in the meantime..

My question is..The block I’d have to order to match my existing setup would be a 3.5”-3.25” tapered block. However, I have a vibration above 60mpg while accelerating. So, would I be okay with a 3.5” flat block? Seems pretty tall for a flat block, but I am getting a bad vibration..I’m used to Duramaxs and it’s always a rule of thumb to get a tapered block, these trucks are going against everything I’ve learned lol. Any help would be much appreciated so I can get this thing back on the road! Thanks!!