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Rear lift blocks


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Posted

Should I use a tapered or flat rear lift block. The stock block is flat and I recently installed the tapered 2 inch block from rough country. I believe this block is the cause of driveline vibrations I am now feeling. Should I try replacing with a flat block?

I have the standard bed crew cab.

Posted

Maybe the 2" blocks were designed to be used with the factory 1' block. So the angle could have been designed for a total of a 3" block instead of just the 2". Just a thought, not sure if I'm right or not lol. Or maybe the u-bolt nuts weren't tightened to spec.

Posted

Use flat blocks. Drive line angles are designed to be equal and raising or lowering the rear lessens or increases the angle but they remain equal. However, tilting the rear only makes the angles unequal and could cause the vibration.

Posted

I'm curious on this as well. I installed a motofab level with their angled 2 inch rear block's. At 65ish plus I start to get a slight humming vibration. Not harsh to rattle seats but noticeable in the pedal and feel. I only noticed that on a long hiway trip. I installed the blocks correctly with the shorter side facing front and now this thread...has me questioning if the angled blocks are to blame? I'm curious if 1. Angled blocks are necessary with 2 inch blocks..

2. If I went to 3 inch blocks are level or angled then needed?

I have a trip coming up from new England to Florida coming this year and that vibration can't happen all the way down.

Def can wait to hear your results!!

 

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  • 1 year later...
Posted

Sub'd as I'm in need of the info as well. Also curious what block to go with in order to gain 1" of lift

 

1ich is factory , so 2inch rear block.

Posted

My truck has 3 inch tapered blocks. I have no vibrations. Put your original factory blocks back in and see if the vibration goes away.

Posted

Maybe the 2" blocks were designed to be used with the factory 1' block. So the angle could have been designed for a total of a 3" block instead of just the 2". Just a thought, not sure if I'm right or not lol. Or maybe the u-bolt nuts weren't tightened to spec.

you do not stack blocks!

 

 

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  • 7 months later...
Posted

Anyone figure out if your blocks at 2" should be flat or tapered?  Mine are 2.5", tapered and I have a vibration...

Posted

I've been going through this issue myself, there are a couple good YouTube videos explaining the problem which was also explained above (one link below, then more good videos in the related links).  I called readylink to confirm their 2" blocks were flat, which they reassured me, but just got them today and sure as hell there's a 1/8th inch taper. Anyone find any good +1" from stock blocks that are flat?? I can't  believe these companies are manufacturing them with a taper. It seems like they should've known this...

 

Posted
On 6/6/2017 at 1:17 AM, Easymoney said:

My truck has 3 inch tapered blocks. I have no vibrations. Put your original factory blocks back in and see if the vibration goes away.

I have rough country 2 inch blocks and there's no vibration. I've done this to three consecutive trucks; 14,15 and 16 and never had an issue. 

IMG_2897.PNG

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am also looking for info on this subject. Looking to get 2" rear blocks for my 17' sierra elevation but I am not sure if I should get flat or tapered either.  I know the readylift and rough country are tapered. Tuff country makes some 2" flat ones. Don't want to add a vibration in a brand new truck.

Posted

In their bigger lifts and their leveling kits rough country uses tapered blocks.  I think Zone does too.  To taper or not to taper

Posted

From what I have just been reading, I believe some of the above posters seem to be right.  The drive line angles are supposed be be equal.  I may go with flat block for only a 1" difference. Still tuned in for other peoples experiences.pinion_angle_equal-opposite.PNG

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