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Belltech shackle drop

22ink

By 22ink
in Modifications & Accessories

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22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
Posted

Had a belltech 6401 shackle drop installed yesterday.....unknown to me until I got home and crawled underneath.. (had my work clothes on)....they also removed the blocks....to the measurement she's even....However I wanted a little bit of rake....going in Monday to have the blocks put back in....I asked for a 2 inch shackle drop....guy said his installer said without the blocks it would have only dropped an inch.....according to belltech its a 2 or 3 inch drop....The 3 inch being the block removal......on a side note...zero vibration....rides great...thought I'd post a quick pic.

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Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

I have the same 6401 going on soon with a bunch of other stuff.....very interested in your findings. I also am only looking for 2 inches. What shocks did you end up using?

 

 

 

Click & Vote for my Phoenix Gold Audio Build please!

http://woobox.com/tw8dew/gallery/fl5HEuZNnk0

22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have the same 6401 going on soon with a bunch of other stuff.....very interested in your findings. I also am only looking for 2 inches. What shocks did you end up using?

Click & Vote for my Phoenix Gold Audio Build please!http://woobox.com/tw8dew/gallery/fl5HEuZNnk0

For now the stock shocks.....I will end up replacing them but with just the shackle drop I wasn't immediately concerned with their replacement....With the 3...they are definitely compressed and the bums tops are closer than I would like....for me the 2 inch is more my personal preference.

I will post pics with the blocks put back in place Monday afternoon.

POS VETT Enthusiast

POS VETT

Posted
Posted

I would just move the spring attachment points to the lower holes on the shackles instead; a whole lot less work than putting the blocks back in which necessitates removing the U-bolts that are torque-to-yield. It will gain an inch while the putting the blocks back in yields 1.25"; the difference is miniscule in my book.

 

Personally, I like the way your truck looks as depicted in the photos. I wouldn't change it.

22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would just move the spring attachment points to the lower holes on the shackles instead; a whole lot less work than putting the blocks back in which necessitates removing the U-bolts that are torque-to-yield. It will gain an inch while the putting the blocks back in yields 1.25"; the difference is miniscule in my book.

 

Personally, I like the way your truck looks as depicted in the photos. I wouldn't change it.

That's a good suggestion...appreciate it....in my ocd mind...perfectly level looks rear low to me...thanks for the idea tho...

22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I appreciate it guys...I put the blocks back in this morning...a small amount of rake without any illusion of being rear low....I don't know what it is...but every silverado I see that's perfect measurements from fender to ground look rear low to me....I'm happy with just the shackle...

22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Were they able to install the shackles without bending or creasing the bed seam on the drivers side?

I had to climb under and check that....grinded down to fit...

22ink Enthusiast

22ink

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Better spray some rattle can on that spot.

 

RT

Agree....

 

Here is a pic with shackles only...block put back in....my personal preference....If I ever remove the block again...I'll get shorter shocks..or shock relocaters...and shorter bumpstops...

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hirdlej Enthusiast

hirdlej

Posted
Posted

Can someone help me understand why the seam is always ground down, bent, cut, etc? Do they do this because they cannot get the bolt out or after everything sits down, the spring end is sitting too close to the seam and rubs? If it's simply for bolt clearance, why don't people just loosen the box up, lift it an inch or two, do their work and set it back down?

1stepcloser Enthusiast

1stepcloser

Posted
Posted

Can someone help me understand why the seam is always ground down, bent, cut, etc? Do they do this because they cannot get the bolt out or after everything sits down, the spring end is sitting too close to the seam and rubs? If it's simply for bolt clearance, why don't people just loosen the box up, lift it an inch or two, do their work and set it back down?

 

You cant get the OEM bolt out of the spring.

I installed the same shackles on mine and lifted the rear of the bed. everything clears w/o problem.

 

I suppose no one wants to lift the bed.

hirdlej Enthusiast

hirdlej

Posted
Posted

 

You cant get the OEM bolt out of the spring.

I installed the same shackles on mine and lifted the rear of the bed. everything clears w/o problem.

 

I suppose no one wants to lift the bed.

Wow, people are lazy. I would much rather just undo a few bolts and lift the bed up a couple inches than to ruin the integrity of the body/paint. I'll have to check things out here in a bit when I get under my truck next time.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

I would just move the spring attachment points to the lower holes on the shackles instead; a whole lot less work than putting the blocks back in which necessitates removing the U-bolts that are torque-to-yield. It will gain an inch while the putting the blocks back in yields 1.25"; the difference is miniscule in my book.

 

Personally, I like the way your truck looks as depicted in the photos. I wouldn't change it.

 

 

Where in the world did you get that the U-bolts a TTY. In all of my years of being around GM vehicles I have never seen any documentation that U-bolts are a TTY design. Based on anything I have ever read on a TTY bolt, a U-bolt really wouldn't qualify as one based on how they are used.

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