Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Just converted my 2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ 5.3L Double Cab to run E85 same as my 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3L. The Chevy did not come from the factory as a flex fuel, but the GMC did, these are the GM parts I used to do the conversion these parts are for a double cab only.

 

20967866 Flex fuel sensor clip

13577429 Flex fuel sensor

23171538 Hose

20967834 Hose

23158923 Pipe

23171537 Pipe

 

If you were to do a Club Cab the two hose's would be different everything else is the same. Did not do a flash as the computer recognized the sensor.

Edited by bobbobtar
  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

I'm gonna have to try this. What did the sensor "plug into" to allow the ecm to recognize the sensor?

The harness plug cover has a little plastic stud that holds to the frame (when it's not used) it just below where the sensor plugs into the frame. After you do the install plug the harness connector into the sensor which will tell the computer what the octane number is and make the adjustments.

Edited by bobbobtar
  • Like 1
Posted

Forget all that. How does she feel power wise!?

Seat of the pants, I could tell it was different, felt like it had better acceleration.

  • Like 2
Posted

Just converted my 2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ 5.3L Double Cab to run E85 same as my 2014 GMC Sierra 5.3L. The Chevy did not come from the factory as a flex fuel, but the GMC did, these are the GM parts I used to do the conversion these parts are for a double cab only.

 

20967866 Flex fuel sensor clip

13577429 Flex fuel sensor

23171538 Hose

20967834 Hose

23158923 Pipe

23171537 Pipe

 

If you were to do a Club Cab the two hose's would be different everything else is the same. Did not do a flash as the computer recognized the sensor.

You should change your gas cap to reflect it as well. Not that are many full service gas stations left anymore... or people that have common sense... but IF you find both, they may refuse to pump E85 into an unleaded capped tank.

Posted

Yes forgot to mention that I did change the gas cap.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't have time to do the install myself so local shop did the install. From looking at parts, it's all plug and play. The Pipe is short 8" piece of flexible hose that has OEM fitting on it that connects the front and back fuel line to the sensor.

Posted (edited)

Do you not need a tune to turn on the e85 capability? I feel like just adding the sensor would not do anything since you aren't telling the computer to adjust timing/spark for additional octane .

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/180793-flex-fuel-conversion-everything-you-need-to-know/?do=findComment&comment=1728414

 

It is laid out in the thread above. Carl T is the local GM tuner in MN that I personal use from my race car, and explains that the you need to enable the sensor in the ECU.

Edited by transam69230
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I would completely advise against running e85 in your truck until you get the ECU tuned.

Would you completely advise against running E85 in a 2016 flex fuel truck? According to my tech. there is no provision on the 2016 trucks to flash or turn on E85 he spent half an hour looking for that option in the ECM and BCM maybe that was an option for 2014-2015 trucks doesn't look like it is now, what Carl was talking about was a 2015 truck.

Edited by bobbobtar
  • Like 1
Posted

So if the truck is a "flex fuel truck" then why didn't it have the sensor already? That indicates that it is not setup for flex fuel in my opinion.

 

If your tech is a GM service technician I would take that with a grain of salt and do your own homework on it.

 

You could certainly be right, but it I'd verify that with a tuner that uses an aftermarket tool such as HP tuners.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Evan Williams Bottled in Bond   So pouring the last of a bottle of Evan Williams Black label last night I set off the the state store for a refill only to be denied the by an empty shelf. Rats.    What the did have was a bottle of Evan Williams Bottled in Bond. 100 proof. Hum, a few bucks more but a known distiller. Lets have a swing at it. ( I have before )    Cracked it open and pour a serving over ice. Hum.... more heat, yes. More alcohol naturally. But the barreling not the proof brings the taste and this one came up short.    Oh is was familiar but the heat ran the barrel over like a Peterbilt runs over a squirrel. Could use a heavier toasting of the oak me thinks or perhaps a longer barreling. Who knows. But what I can say is ice or a water back isn't the answer. What kills one kills them both. Sad. It is a pleasant drink....if you have little to compare it to.  
    • I've had exactly one set of Bridgestone. Lasted five year and 125,000 miles and had I known better 15oK would have been a cake walk. I would have bought a like set had they not tripled in price since the first set. I removed them at said mileage with 5/32" remaining in dead even wear all four. They were fuel efficient, quite, comfortable and predictable.    Early on I got a very good alignment checked at least once a year, sometimes twice; kept the tires properly inflated, balanced and rotated. And I've found that many a tire issue can be avoided with great maintenance practices. Lot's of tire dealers will do rotation and balance (simple) for free for as long as you own the tire they sold you so no excuse not to.    Bead prep, alloy integrity and stem health have a huge impact on inflation stability. There are more mountings done poorly that perfectly. Finding a good tire guy is gold and as important as finding a tire you like.    That 3X price increase now two sets of "other tires' later is starting look like a bargain.      Bad maintenance kills more tires than bad tires. 
    • Atlas, you kill me As aggravating as a project like this can be you have been unable to hide your fascination with learning and using that angst against this beast like a Ninjitsu Master. It amuses you, admit it now.      BTW, love your writing style. 😉       
    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...