Weird No Crank-No Start Issue this morning

fondupot · May 27, 2016

First off I'll explain my normal starting procedure. I put the key in, turn the key forward to run, but I don't crank over the key for a few seconds, then I crank the key and the truck starts no problem.

So today, I get in to go to work, put the key in, turn to run....and here is where the issue begins. I had about 1/2 second of power (the radio came on and the dash lights flashed). Then I heard an electrical "thunk" sound (best I can describe it) And then, the truck was dead. Like dead, dead. Like Doomguy impaled by Hell Knight on ultra-nightmare dead.

I tried to crank it over. Nothing. Not a sound. No clicking, no nothing. Dead.

Key fob doesn't do anything. Windows do not work. Lights to not work. Locks, overhead lights, etc etc. The truck is a 5000 lb. paper weight.

So a this point I am scratching my head. I pop the hood and check the starter fuse and starter relay. Fuse looks OK. Relay didn't show any signs of trauma, but it's impossible to know if it's bad just by looking.

So now I am stumped. And getting pissed, because I am going to be late for work. I came to my senses and thought maybe I should disconnect the Negative battery cable. So I get my socket out. Unhook it for about 30 seconds. And then reconnect. Tested the key fob. No affect. Still dead.

Then I decided then to disconnect the positive cable. So I did that, for about 30 seconds. And then reconnect. I tested with the key fob, and to my surprise I had power. The lights flicked on. So then I hop in and try to start the truck and it cranks up like normal. Drove away to work. I had to stop and get gas, and I was nervous to shut the truck off. But after filling up, it started like normal with no issues. Had to make another stop on my way to work, and it started fine again.

Really strange.

Any thoughts?

Thanks dudes/dudettes

dcheeseman · May 27, 2016

I'd first check my battery voltage after sitting all night. If good battery is probably fine. If it does it again, my guess would be a loose connection or a electronic issue. I don't think its a security issue because you still should have had your dome lights on. Hopefully it was just a fluke.

Daniel

Brianibew · May 27, 2016

There have been a few posts on here related to a bad positive battery cable.

fondupot · May 27, 2016

After I got the truck started, the battery was in normal range of voltage. So I don't think it's that.

Is the issue with the positive battery cable, the short little run of cable that connects the battery to the distribution block on the battery? Or is it the longer run that goes to the alternator?

I did notice that both the positive and negative battery cables did not have any dielectric grease on them. How important is that stuff to be on there?

Brianibew · May 28, 2016

If I had to guess, the positive cable from the battery to the distribution block as the cable from the alternator to the battery would not affect how it would start if the battery was not dead. There is a way to test the cable for mV drop but I cannot recall what the threshold limit is...300mV?? Dielectric grease just keeps the battery terminals from corroding.

GMC-AT · May 29, 2016

Seriously doubt it had anything to do with the battery. These trucks today have as much wiring as a house did 40 years ago. No telling what the issue is.

The bad part about these type of problems is you loose confidence in your truck until you know 100% what the issue is..

fondupot · May 30, 2016

The truck has started flawlessly over a dozen times since the incident....

But like GMC-AT says, it does make me lose some confidence.

Colossus · May 31, 2016

I had an 07 Sierra that I purchased new. Everything was fine for the first 20,000 miles and then out of the blue I started having an issue similar to what you explained. Dealership could never duplicate the problem. Had it happen once where I had it towed to the dealership and when it came off the tow truck, it started! I got charged for the tow! I ended up trading it in on an 08 Sierra Duramax. Dealer did go over the ignition system with a fine tooth comb, from battery cables to fuses to the ignition switch. Couldn't come up with anything.

GMC-AT · May 31, 2016

Yep. that's the problem.. can't never duplicate these type of issues.

fondupot · May 31, 2016

Ugh...I was considering getting into a new vehicle not to long ago. But decided against it. Now it has me thinking again...

20feetup · June 1, 2016

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/187150-truck-wont-consistently-start-2014-sierra-slt-at/page-1

I had similar issues among others. Ended up being the positive battery cable running 200 mA resistance

Edited June 1, 2016 by 20feetup

20feetup · June 13, 2016

Have you had the issue reoccur at all? Did you have it looked at? My issue has returned even after the cable change...

fondupot · June 14, 2016

Have you had the issue reoccur at all? Did you have it looked at? My issue has returned even after the cable change...

Haven't had any issues for two weeks. Knock on wood.

And I haven't had a chance to have the dealer look at it. Because I know they will just say "cannot duplicate"

20feetup · June 14, 2016

I'm just tired of not trusting this truck, it's back in it's second home (the shop) looking for a cause as I had two dead turns of the key this weekend.

Edited June 14, 2016 by 20feetup

tnchevy · June 14, 2016

I had something very similar with my 2002 silverado. It actually died on me when pulling out into traffic a couple of times when I first got it but of course the mechanics could not find anything wrong. I had that truck for 12 years and it would be fine for a year or two and then out of no where it would not start, just exactly how you describe your situation. It always made wonder where and when it would happen next but as I said it would be a year or two before it happened again. That truck had the original battery in it for almost 11 years but it failed to start on me once after the new battery was put in (about a month before I traded it for my 2014). I found out for me it that disconnecting the battery really had nothing to do with it. Usually it would fire up after I took the key out and waited 5 mins or so.

More and more I am thinking that I may be better off by selling my truck and finding me an 82 model chevy truck with a carb and fix it real nice mechanically and cosmetically and call it a day. When something goes wrong then the cause is much easier to track down. I say that but it probably won't happen. I owned an 82 when I was young so just feeling nostalgic I guess.

Edited June 14, 2016 by tnchevy