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Motofab 3" front and 2" rear blocks??? Yeah or Nah??


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Posted

The way the truck lifts is magnified. Meaning a 1 inch block would lift the truck higher than 1 inch...say 1.5. The 2 inch block up front lifts the front 3 inches. It's not a 1:1 ratio. On a flat service to me it is just just just under level. Meaning I think the rear needs a smidge lifting. On the angle of the rear block I'm not sure. In a stock config. The driveshaft to pinion angles are fairly straight as such -----. Once the truck gets raised the rear end stays the same so the angle at the u joint where the driveshaft meets the pinion starts to look something like \______. Exaggerated but you get the point. On less or more vibs due to pinion angle I can't comment. That is something I'd like to hear a out if anyone knows. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/129-1207-drivelines-and-geometry-understanding-pinion-and-driveshaft-angle/

 

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BBRU you trucks looks great! Just curious, what kind of components come with that Maxxtracs kit? Did it have true 3" spacers or 2" spacers like the Motofab? Did it come with the 3" rear blocks or did you buy them extra? Did the also have an angle like the RC blocks or were they a full 3" square?

Curious if it's a square or angled block too

 

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Posted

Ok so I have been researching this angle issue. When I got my kit from motofab it came with tapered 2 inch lift blocks. The stock truck has a flat 1.25 inch block so my rear was raised .75 inches. My problem and concern after researching is the truck leaves the factory with whatever angles (angles at tranny and rear end) Chevy deems correct. So in essence raising the rear with a tapered block will f up any angles they feel are needed and we run into the dreaded Bob issue. My thinking is since Chevy has a 1.25 square or flat block stock, raising the rear needs to have a flat block as well. The angles will change but will be in correct relationship to each other. I'm not sure the angle that my MF block has but I'm thinking all these tapered blocks are incorrect for us. I was trying to find what blocks are used for lifted...4,5,6,7 inches and if those are tapered. Seems 1.5 - 3 inch I can't find square but once you hit a 4,5,6 block you can find non tapered. This is my thought below on some drive line issues with the current leveling blocks. Angles are exaggerated for show

8e8773bc7f6f2d1343d1edb08e064c88.jpg

 

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Posted

I would think you would be replacing ball joints often with that set up

I guess I'm confused a little then. I currently have the rough country 2in level in my truck ( lower spacer) wouldn't that keep most of the geometry of the front suspension? Doesn't adding the top spacer mess up the geometry? I like my level kit currently but wouldn't mind to go up a bit more ( don't want a body lift ) without the expense of suspension lifts. I guess I'm just a little confused on what would and wouldn't work

Posted

Ok so I have been researching this angle issue. When I got my kit from motofab it came with tapered 2 inch lift blocks. The stock truck has a flat 1.25 inch block so my rear was raised .75 inches. My problem and concern after researching is the truck leaves the factory with whatever angles (angles at tranny and rear end) Chevy deems correct. So in essence raising the rear with a tapered block will f up any angles they feel are needed and we run into the dreaded Bob issue. My thinking is since Chevy has a 1.25 square or flat block stock, raising the rear needs to have a flat block as well. The angles will change but will be in correct relationship to each other. I'm not sure the angle that my MF block has but I'm thinking all these tapered blocks are incorrect for us. I was trying to find what blocks are used for lifted...4,5,6,7 inches and if those are tapered. Seems 1.5 - 3 inch I can't find square but once you hit a 4,5,6 block you can find non tapered. This is my thought below on some drive line issues with the current leveling blocks. Angles are exaggerated for show

8e8773bc7f6f2d1343d1edb08e064c88.jpg

 

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Sweet research man!! I feel that this is a great explanation in regards to this issue. I will look around to see if I could come across 3' flat blocks and I will share if I do. I see that that sight you linked to your previous post sells angled spacers to flatten the angle out. Do you think those would eliminate the angle issue?? I guess it would be a lot easier to find flat block though.

Posted

It looks like a 2" spacer to me, definitely not three inches. Listed as a 3" kit though, as far as the rear, I'd have to crawl under and look. Pretty the offroad shop I used replaced the factory rear block with a larger one. I asked about how can it achieve 3" 's without it being a 3" spacer. If I remember correctly, they something about changing the preload of the strut and the new angle the spacer created. It sounded like B.S. to me, but it gave the lift I needed for my tire/wheel combo so I didn't question it.....

Posted

 

Sweet research man!! I feel that this is a great explanation in regards to this issue. I will look around to see if I could come across 3' flat blocks and I will share if I do. I see that that sight you linked to your previous post sells angled spacers to flatten the angle out. Do you think those would eliminate the angle issue?? I guess it would be a lot easier to find flat block though.

I know on street cars/ race cars the shims are used to adjust pinion angle. Getting the correct angle helps plant the tires when launching.. RC said there 3 inch blocks have a 3° taper so grabbing 3° shims would offset the taper to zero it out ...if I do my math correctly which would make the block effectively square. I agree a block built square is better than that Hodge podge but...who knows. I'm amazed I can't find a square 3 inch block.

 

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Posted

Anybody know why a cell pick from a iPhone will not upload?? It keeps saying "file to big". Nothing special, just another cell pic.

Posted

Are u using Tapatalk or a browser. Tapatalk will resize it

 

 

Ok found a 3 inch block w ubolts non tapered. Man I was thinking I would find aliens before I found this. After reading a bunch of sites the nontapered are the way to go to avoid vibs. Just look up tapered vs non tapered

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=78331671f65a3ea7fa4dbab4cce56d4cc7d1.jpg

 

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Posted

Ok, finally

It looks good man, has the perfect amount of rake on it. I dig it!! So did you buy the 3" rear blocks separate or were they part of the kit?

 

 

Are u using Tapatalk or a browser. Tapatalk will resize it

 

 

Ok found a 3 inch block w ubolts non tapered. Man I was thinking I would find aliens before I found this. After reading a bunch of sites the nontapered are the way to go to avoid vibs. Just look up tapered vs non tapered

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=78331671f65a3ea7fa4dbab4cce56d4cc7d1.jpg

 

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Good find man!! You going to order those? I think I am going to go with that set up. So did you install your Motofab kit on your own or did a shop do it for you? If you did it on your own was it really challenging??

Posted

It looks good man, has the perfect amount of rake on it. I dig it!! So did you buy the 3" rear blocks separate or were they part of the kit?

 

 

Good find man!! You going to order those? I think I am going to go with that set up. So did you install your Motofab kit on your own or did a shop do it for you? If you did it on your own was it really challenging??

I think I'm gonna get the blocks but gonna see if a local 4x4 store has them. Shipping is a ridiculous 35 + bucks. I did the install. The rears are pretty easy and the front wasn't to bad. Once I did one side and knew what to do the other side took half the time. My father has a garage and body shop so I was able to use a lift. If you have a jack just make sure it's at least. 2 ton and can get the truck up a good height and def use jacks. I never gave a thought about jacks on my cars bit for some reason these behemoths I won't go under without one

 

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Posted

I think I'm gonna get the blocks but gonna see if a local 4x4 store has them. Shipping is a ridiculous 35 + bucks. I did the install. The rears are pretty easy and the front wasn't to bad. Once I did one side and knew what to do the other side took half the time. My father has a garage and body shop so I was able to use a lift. If you have a jack just make sure it's at least. 2 ton and can get the truck up a good height and def use jacks. I never gave a thought about jacks on my cars bit for some reason these behemoths I won't go under without one

 

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Cool man. That's good to know. I don't have access to all that stuff but I have a couple buddies that are mechanics who do. I called to Desert Rat for a quote on install and the said $466 just for install!! That seems kind of high!

  • 2 years later...
Posted

I installed this today and kept factory shocks and A arms. CV shaft is at pretty severe angle.  Any long term issues to look for?

Posted

So who has had the Motofab 3/2 on for any length of time? Issues? Just put mine on and concerned with CV shaft angle, upper ball joint wear and upper control arm?

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