Jump to content

Drivers side rear rattle

emeryz28

By emeryz28
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

emeryz28 Enthusiast

emeryz28

Posted
Posted

I am trying to target where this noise is coming from. It is only on the drivers side, sounds like it somewhere between the back passenger door and the rear bumper. I can only hear this when the windows are up and radio is off. It is not a clanking sound, but more of a muffled rattle.

 

I do have a level kit with rear 2 inch blocks installed and it may be in my head, but I believe I started to hear this rattle a few days after I hauled about 1500 ibs in the bed, but it could have been before that.

 

 

Has anyone else had a similar problem? Perhaps I need to tighten up the shackles around the block and the leaf springs? I do recall a thread about leaf spring slap but I couldn't find it.

 

 

I made sure to double check the rear folding seat, rear seatbelt wasn't causing this noise, also there is nothing in the bed.

 

 

Not a major issue, so if chevy cust service reads this, no worries. it would need to get much worse before I would consider going to the dealer

neokonig Enthusiast

neokonig

Posted
Posted

I've heard something similar, and been trying to track it down. It makes a noise when I am going over varied terrain and isn't constant. I checked the rear seats and the seat belt and I can't quite figure it out. For me, it sounds like it is coming from the rotating joint where the rear seat is connected. No solution yet.

emeryz28 Enthusiast

emeryz28

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yes I am right there with you. the odd muffled sound made me think it was the belt hitting something or the rear seat bumping up and down. I am going to crawl under there later this week(to finish the install of my AMP steps, didn't do the LED lights yet) and see if I can find anything loose.

neokonig Enthusiast

neokonig

Posted
Posted

I solved my issue. It was coming from the rear driver side seat joint, I was able to reproduce it by moving the seat up and down slowly and only a little bit to mimic driving conditions. I fixed this in an unorthodox manner, I simply lifted and slammed the seat down a few times. Figured it was not going to break because it has to hold a person, but after that I haven't heard it, or been able to repro it.

  • 4 months later...
Immaculate Reflections Enthusiast

Immaculate Reflections

Posted
Posted

I solved my issue. It was coming from the rear driver side seat joint, I was able to reproduce it by moving the seat up and down slowly and only a little bit to mimic driving conditions. I fixed this in an unorthodox manner, I simply lifted and slammed the seat down a few times. Figured it was not going to break because it has to hold a person, but after that I haven't heard it, or been able to repro it.

 

Can you post pics of the source?

 

interesting, ill have to look into that

 

Did you solve yours? I have (i think), the same noise. Dealer said its my AMP steps but I don't think it is....they aren't touching anything and all connections are tight.

neokonig Enthusiast

neokonig

Posted
Posted

So for me, it was the joint in the bottom right of this photo, it was coming from behind the half circle plastic sheathing. A couple of lifts and slams down, the issue pretty much went away, if I hear it pop up again I just do the up/down of the seat and it goes away.

 

 

gallery_152474_3849_1620978.jpg

crankman Enthusiast

crankman

Posted
Posted

So for me, it was the joint in the bottom right of this photo, it was coming from behind the half circle plastic sheathing. A couple of lifts and slams down, the issue pretty much went away, if I hear it pop up again I just do the up/down of the seat and it goes away.

 

 

gallery_152474_3849_1620978.jpg

Exactly I have had the same noise last 2 trucks, you got to slam that back seat down good or it rattles.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • rjgvt
      Is your l8t engine bay super dusty?

      By rjgvt · Posted

      I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • Atlas
      Acceptably cheap tires?

      By Atlas · Posted

      4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • JohnRoy
      2020 Sierra 2500 windows rolling down

      By JohnRoy · Posted

      2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...