Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Well Hello Mike. Nice to hear from a friendly face. Reliability, yea, what a bore. I like that kind of boredom. Avalon is a nice car. 

 

1.) The first number in 10W30 is the base oil's natural SAE assigned viscosity. The second number the result of the viscosity polymer package. In other words this is a 10W oil that has VI improver to prevent it from thinning out to a viscosity less than required for a W30 at 212 F. I prefer to lubricate with the base oil instead of VI improvers. If they made a straight 30W or a 20W30 in a PAO/POE blend I'd use that during the summer. Anyway, the smaller the gap between the first and second number the less complicated the VI molecules. I expect I will continue to use 5W30 for the four coldest winter months. 

 

2.) Oh yes, several trans services in fact and another coming up at the next change. Overdue actually. 

 

11/17/2017 50 K  Pan drop and replace the filter WIX and replace fluid with 6 quarts Red Line D-6, 48%  PAO/POE 

 3/30/2018 58 K Trans thermostat modification. Lower temps < 50 F 

 7/24/2018 70 K Install PML 8 quart alloy pan. 8 Quarts Red Line D-6 now 78.6% PAO/POE 

10/16/2018 80 K  8 Quarts Red Line D-6 now 90% PAO/POE

 

Over this same period of time I lowered the water thermostat improving trans cooling. Combine with the trans stat modification fluid temps are 70 to 90 F cooler, summer/ winter respectively. I have to be sitting dead in traffic on a 95 F day now to exceed 175 F fluid temperature.  

 

I have two more trans mods I'd like to do yet. Inline filter and a more reliable converter. 

 

 

 

And Vl stands for viscosity improvers? If so, how do those effect oil (negatively I should say)?
 

Regarding tranny service - Looks like you’ve exchanged the fluid several times (outside of the pan drop the first time). Inline filter? Now, if you install an inline filter, will you be doing that so you won’t have to remove the pan and change the filter in the future? Or are you doing that for additional filtering?  I always consider ATF “clean”...at least clean compared to other fluids on the car. I don’t think I’ve even really seen much of anything in a transmission filter. Yet I do think it’s important to change them every 50k or so. Then again I know people that have never changed them without issue (but that’s just not my style).
 

My Avalon has 51,000 miles on it an I performed three drain and fills. Fluid was DARK. That’s the thing with Toyota WS fluid, it turns dark real fast after the factory fill. I really need to do a pan drop and filter - it’s just that I hate to do something like that on my back - usually I have access to a lift, but not due to the quarantine/virus right now. I may end up crawling under there anyway...not real happy with the results of three drain and fills. 


Well keep motoring, Grumpy...weather is warm, roads are clear of salt. Enjoy your summer!

Posted
47 minutes ago, Doublebase said:

And Vl stands for viscosity improvers? If so, how do those effect oil (negatively I should say)?
 

Regarding tranny service - Looks like you’ve exchanged the fluid several times (outside of the pan drop the first time). Inline filter? Now, if you install an inline filter, will you be doing that so you won’t have to remove the pan and change the filter in the future? Or are you doing that for additional filtering?  I always consider ATF “clean”...at least clean compared to other fluids on the car. I don’t think I’ve even really seen much of anything in a transmission filter. Yet I do think it’s important to change them every 50k or so. Then again I know people that have never changed them without issue (but that’s just not my style).
 

My Avalon has 51,000 miles on it an I performed three drain and fills. Fluid was DARK. That’s the thing with Toyota WS fluid, it turns dark real fast after the factory fill. I really need to do a pan drop and filter - it’s just that I hate to do something like that on my back - usually I have access to a lift, but not due to the quarantine/virus right now. I may end up crawling under there anyway...not real happy with the results of three drain and fills. 


Well keep motoring, Grumpy...weather is warm, roads are clear of salt. Enjoy your summer!

Stands for Visicosity Index improver. Sometimes just viscosity index. Context and all. 

 

The factory filter is a large dog and cat catcher. Mice and rats get a free pass. Odd as hydraulic circuits require cleaner fluids than those that are not. The factory filter should still be replaced now and again. An inline just filters to a smaller particle size. There seems to be a pretty good variation in cleanliness among suppliers. Most motor oil for example are to dirty in the bottle and use the filter to do what the manufacture should have done. 40 micron is the human eyes threshold for detection. I might add good young eyes. :)  Hydraulic system work better much closer to 10 micron or less. What helps trans fluids is they don't have to contend with combustion products. 

 

Yes, one can make a case for anything. 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

7/24/2020 Ordered

 

PIRELLI SCORPION VERDE ALL SEASON PLUS II -

Size: 265/65R17

UTQG: 740 A A

 

Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II

 

I could run the Bridgestone Duller 684 II literally another 50,000 miles but were going to call it at 125,000 with just under 2/32 inch remaining to the wear bars. And what a good tire it has been. Panic stopped me out of deer rash several times. Never lost grip in the wet. Quite tire. It's only knock, comfort. I even cured that for the most running lower air pressure. At 35 psi most of their life they wore as even as any tire I've ever owned and they balance nice. So....why change? I guess Bridgstone dealers found out it wasn't quite the ugly duckling consumer reviews were hinting and the price is now on par with tires like Pirelli, Continental and Michelin. Well and comfort. We'll see, eh? 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

https://tirepressure.com/

 

A site worth getting familiar with. I took note of this statement in particular: “According to the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, when a metric or P-metric tire is installed on a light truck, crossover, SUV, pickup or minivan the load capacity of the tire is reduced by about 10% of the original tire load capacity”.

 

Technically it’s 9.1% (Did a deep dive on that standard).

 

I thought it might be fun to work this up on my truck.

 

So we need some data. Truck curb weight is 4521 (book). It is fitted with a P255R70/17 tire in load range SL and load Index 110.

 

Looking at this size load vs pressure table we find at the 36 psig mark a load of 2337 pounds. Applying the above de-rating:

 

2337 * 0.909 = 2124 pounds.

 

So for the axle, two tires we have 2124 * 2 = 4248 load capacity.

 

Truck had a 50/50 weight bias so aback half weight = 2260

 

Subtract that from 4248 – 2260 = 1988 payload (one ton)

 

Plus truck weight 4521 + 1988 = 6509 GVWR

 

The door sticker says…….6500 GVWR How about that!

 

Truck scales, with modifications, 5060 pounds which lowers my payload to around 1700 pounds. About 1500 more than I need.

 

This means the GM is ignoring the 20% rating discount the tire manufactures use as the safety margin for haul tow. (Source Armstrong Tire)

 

So running those numbers again with the real weights and measures the payload is actually 868 pounds for a GVWR of 5930 pounds for those tires

.  

No matter what you can’t scale over 6500 lbs and as she sits at 5060 pounds and working the numbers backward losing the 9.1% P metric discount, we are going to an LT tire, but keeping the 20% safety margin we need a tire with a cold inflation pressure rating of 2480 pounds to get back to 1440 pound payload and stay inside the GVWR.

 

The LT265/65R70 hits that mark at 57 psig. We have to extrapolate the pressure as is it given in 5 psi increments as it is 30 pounds per 1 psig.

 

And no I did not add the increased tire weight to the trucks scale weight. We’re just playing here.

 

Anyway, that’s how it’s done as I understand it.

 

During this research project I also noted that:

 

  1. The pressure is not adjusted down from sticker pressure for running empty.
  2. A 10% under inflation = a 10% reduction in tire life.
  3. If you use a larger tire with a higher load index which will result in a lower pressure for the same load the actual pressure cannot be less than the door sticker pressure.
  4. If you use a smaller tire with a higher load index the pressure remains unchanged.
  5. Isometric, P-metric and LT metric tires of the same size will not have the same load index.
  6. 35/36 psig for P metric tires is also their peak load rating even though the tire max pressure rating is higher.
  7. Max inflation pressure is the cold pressure. It may exceed that during running safely.
  8. Anything over 3% in tire height requires a re-gear. Don’t shoot the messenger this is the Tire/OEM’s guidelines.
Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted (edited)

Okay, I'm giddy. John called with a price of $150 each on Peppers new shoes....including delivery. BOOM! Tire Rack was $175 plus shipping or plus my driving to South Bend to pick them up. Wait....this includes lifetime FREE rotation. :)

 

Discount tire doesn't carry this size. Simple Tire same as Tire Rack and Pirelli local dealer, $265 a shoe. WOW!!

 

This is $25 less per tire than the replacing in like. A pound lighter and a half inch shorter with the same foot print width and a more perfect rim width match. Well and a UTQG: 740 A A instead of 360 B B and 112 T vs 110 T load and speed.

 

 

Yes yes made within the year but older than 3 months and in the same lot number. Am I missing something? Yea, I still have to pay for balance past the first mounting. 

 

7/28/2020 Additional Information

 

Solving flywheel effect and assuming the same basic tread to sidewall mass ratio this new tire has a 2.5% smaller equivalent mass but a 5% smaller inertia moment! Small changes make big differences. 

 

The current tire is likely even less, worn as it is, and I've been thinking that part of the constant mpg increase over the last few years has indeed been an ever lighter and smaller tire. So...am expecting some loss even with the lighter smaller set up. I have no way to estimate actual rolling resistance. 

 

Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted

7/31/2020 Recall Warranty Extension Notice

 

Extension of  the previous notice on the seat belt pretensioner for Special Coverage Program(s) 18127 or 18128. This extends the warranty from 10 year or 150,000 miles to 12 years or 180,000 miles (290,000 km) 

 

Good to know :) 

 

 

Posted

8/1/2020 July Report

 

Ended the month logging 3231 miles using 108.772 gallons for 29.70 mpg

For the year 16,775 miles using 605.61 gallons for 27.70 mpg. 

29.93 mpg peak six point moving average and a single tank peak of 30.82 mpg

 

Tires came today and were sent right back. Why? Age/lot. I said not more than a year old and not newer that 3 months and same lot. Not buying what you what to sell me, buying what I want. I don't buy bread past the sell date, why tires? :) 

 

Still learning to use the new Meguiar's® Hybrid Ceramic Wax. Interesting stuff. LOVE It on the black plastic like the grill. Clean up is a snap and it really hides aging. Now how long will it last? I don't think they had 31 grain hardness in mind for the instructions. 

  • Like 1
Posted

8/2/2020 Road Trip!

 

Left this morning headed through the Galena territory to the bluff country of NE Iowa to see some roads we haven't seen in quite some time. This was not a fuel friendly trip. About a hundred miles into a 10 +  NW wind over the rolling 5-7% grades the closer we got to Galena. Rain off and on as well. Galena traffic and a stop at a Culvers for lunch. So far so good. 72 to 82 F temperatures and moderate humidity keep the windows down except in the rain then the AC dried out the cabin. 

 

After lunch we continued west on US 20 through the rats maze of US 52 downtown Dubuque hoping to head north toward Minnesota. Not going to happen. Construction detour took us so far south we were right back on US 20 the other side of town wasting both time and fuel. My navigator pointed us down Swiss Valley road as it looked like it ran through the bluff country woodlands and that it did. Can't remember the last time, if ever, a posted 35 mph speed limit on a county highway but there is was. Truthfully? It was about 10 mph to fast. Exceedingly narrow and popular road with twist and turn up and down Vermont worthy grades with some exceptional elevation changes for the area. Put her in tow mode and after assuring grade braking was working set the cruise at 35 mph. Over the entire distance the speed never varied 3 mph either side of the set point and not once did I touch the brakes. The power train worked its tail shaft off. By time we hit Military road the transmission fluid temps were 180 F or 30 F over normal for a day like today and the motor oil was 210 F or around 15 over normal. Tow mode grade braking is a bit more aggressive and I hung on watching the tachometer swing between 1000 and 4800 rpm and the trans row between 2nd and 5th gear repeatedly. I also observed the Tank MPG drop from 29 to 25 for the tank to that point. 

 

Military Road exits onto US 151, a four lane 65 mph byway. Running 55 mph to cool her down temps came back to normal levels. This run answered allot of questions about the need for additional cooling that I'll ponder for quite some time to come. 

 

I mentioned to the wife that I fully expected the wind to shift to our disfavor on the return and so it did. :lol: Me and my big mouth. Still the lower route chosen help allot as did the longer tacking course home got the tank back up over 27.5 for the trip. Part of that over a scenic byway of Jones County E-17. A road so remote that grass grows in the cements cracks everywhere on the road.  

 

This part of Iowa is stunning this time of year and well worth the extra fuel it took to see it. Pepper is at touring rig after all.   

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, after reading all 49 pages (not all at once), I believe this is the best thread I have ever read. Informative and entertaining. Real, quality, eye opening, factual information. The kind that is so difficult to find anymore. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

125,000 Service

 

2015 Silverado RCSB 1500 4.3 V-6 / 6L80E

125,363 Actual, 5,466 OCI. 

 

6 Quarts AMSOIL SS 10W30 

Purolator BOSS PBL-22500 filter 

Zero consumption.

 

Normal checks of ATF and Diff fluids. All good. 

 

So....Pepper got her new shoes today.  Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II 

 

PIRELLI SCORPION VERDE ALL SEASON PLUS II - 265/65R17

 

This tire is 1/2" shorter and....corrected my speedometer to dead nuts to GPS. It had been logging miles 1% low and speed 1 Kilometer per hour slow. I have removed that correction from the Scan Gauge II. 

 

So the Bridgestone Duller HT 684 II that come off at 125,363 miles measured an average 5/32 plus. Even wear. This is a solid tire choice and literally price and the promise of a bit more comfort won. Now it it just delivers, eh? 

 

First impressions with under 50 miles logged scuffing them in are:

 

1.) As quite at the Bridgestone was these are quieter. Just a hair and most of that over small tar snakes and road cracks. Dead quite on bigger stuff. No basketball bounce sound to be hear. That's what my ear said. What the sound meter said was 2/3 DBa louder. Well if it is it's in a place I can't hear it. (Phone mic and app) Could have been the wind. I do more sampling and compare with my notes. 

 

2.) Ride compliance over same said tar snakes is better. Over all ride seems better but some roads are just plain bad. Stuff smaller than an inch in height this tires takes better. Past that the shocks/springs are in play and  you loose what is doing what. Is the the shock or the tire? :dunno: 

 

3.) Roll out distance from 45 to 30 mph is the same. That surprised me as roller resistance diminishes with age and of the rubber (hardens) and less tread squirm with less tread. Well if that's the case it is a solid improvement as these will only get better too. 

 

4.) Turn in is NOW compared to the old set. Effort is zero. Think the move and it makes it.

 

It is way to early to test lateral grip. Best part was the price. $151 a piece. Worst part was the newest set I could get a a few weeks over a year old. (In a matched set of the same lot). 

 

John did mention they took a bit more weight to balance. Worst 5 ounce but we have no 'wigglers' and no 'eggs' They roll straight and true. 

 

I postponed alignment for one week as well as the trans service. 

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

125,000 Service

 

2015 Silverado RCSB 1500 4.3 V-6 / 6L80E

125,363 Actual, 5,466 OCI. 

 

6 Quarts AMSOIL SS 10W30 

Purolator BOSS PBL-22500 filter 

Zero consumption.

 

Normal checks of ATF and Diff fluids. All good. 

 

So....Pepper got her new shoes today.  Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II 

 

PIRELLI SCORPION VERDE ALL SEASON PLUS II - 265/65R17

 

This tire is 1/2" shorter and....corrected my speedometer to dead nuts to GPS. It had been logging miles 1% low and speed 1 Kilometer per hour slow. I have removed that correction from the Scan Gauge II. 

 

So the Bridgestone Duller HT 684 II that come off at 125,363 miles measured an average 5/32 plus. Even wear. This is a solid tire choice and literally price and the promise of a bit more comfort won. Now it it just delivers, eh? 

 

First impressions with under 50 miles logged scuffing them in are:

 

1.) As quite at the Bridgestone was these are quieter. Just a hair and most of that over small tar snakes and road cracks. Dead quite on bigger stuff. No basketball bounce sound to be hear. That's what my ear said. What the sound meter said was 2/3 DBa louder. Well if it is it's in a place I can't hear it. (Phone mic and app) Could have been the wind. I do more sampling and compare with my notes. 

 

2.) Ride compliance over same said tar snakes is better. Over all ride seems better but some roads are just plain bad. Stuff smaller than an inch in height this tires takes better. Past that the shocks/springs are in play and  you loose what is doing what. Is the the shock or the tire? :dunno: 

 

3.) Roll out distance from 45 to 30 mph is the same. That surprised me as roller resistance diminishes with age and of the rubber (hardens) and less tread squirm with less tread. Well if that's the case it is a solid improvement as these will only get better too. 

 

4.) Turn in is NOW compared to the old set. Effort is zero. Think the move and it makes it.

 

It is way to early to test lateral grip. Best part was the price. $151 a piece. Worst part was the newest set I could get a a few weeks over a year old. (In a matched set of the same lot). 

 

John did mention they took a bit more weight to balance. Worst 5 ounce but we have no 'wigglers' and no 'eggs' They roll straight and true. 

 

I postponed alignment for one week as well as the trans service. 

 

 

 

Sounds great!

 

I always waited at least a few hundred miles before I did an alignment and a re-balance.  It was recommended by a family run garage that did nothing but tire work, alignments and suspension work.  They were in business over 50yrs and closed their door because they all wanted to retire.  Couldn't blame them. Great family run shop and the only one around that still did tire truing and balancing with the tires on the vehicle.  Sure do miss them.  A vehicle never road as sooth as one that just had the tires trued and re-balanced. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

Sounds great!

 

I always waited at least a few hundred miles before I did an alignment and a re-balance.  It was recommended by a family run garage that did nothing but tire work, alignments and suspension work.  They were in business over 50yrs and closed their door because they all wanted to retire.  Couldn't blame them. Great family run shop and the only one around that still did tire truing and balancing with the tires on the vehicle.  Sure do miss them.  A vehicle never road as sooth as one that just had the tires trued and re-balanced. 

Use to have a shop like that in Clinton Iowa. Tire Rack in South Bend Indiana still trues (shaves) tires and by hand. Getting to be a lost art. 

 

So the Mrs. and I drove a few hundred miles tonight. She wanted to experience what $750 bought. Verdict? She approved. Said it was about the same level of ride improvement that the shock/spring package brought to the party. This girl can tell is air pressure is off one pound from normal. Now if I could get her to check her oil....oh well..... Ran it up to 70 mph. Smooth as a good bourbon. ALL of the harshness of the factory tuning is now GONE BEAVER.  

 

I ran another sound level check with a much different result. The wind had died down allot so..... it is a bit quieter but the tone is also different. Less 'white noise'. She called it static.  Wife mentioned she can hear the motor now and thought that strange as we never thought the old tires were noisy at all. I agreed. I hear the shifts now, differently. I can hear the intake drone. 

 

Lastly, on the way back I hit one of my favorite on ramps sort of hard. :)  Yea, that is MUCH better! Feels....well...less on edge? Inspires confidence that it has it all under control. Goes right were you point it, albeit well under the grip limit. I'll push it harder when I'm the only one that could get hurt. What I always though to be some body roll turned out to be tire deflection. Who knew, right? My butt G meter is telling me its now as a whole a good bit higher than the OEM .74 G limit. More than I should ever need. This ain't no track truck. It's a touring rig and doing it well. 

 

Add another great 'step' improvement. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Pirelli continues to impress. 

 

One thing I worried myself silly over was fuel efficiency. Or more precisely, loosing it. Granted I expected some downward change due to increased weight and taller tread (squirm). Weight of the Bridgestone new was 36 pounds. Used and down to 5/32 it tipped in at 32.2 pounds. The Pirelli new comes in at 35 pounds but it is a half inch shorter new. Bridgestone used comes in at 30.8 inches. Plugging those numbers in the RI (rotating inertia) for the new tire is higher as is the equivalent mass.

 

However, new to new the Pirelli is both lighter and has a lower RI. Long explanation to say I expected some loss and yet not as much as replacing in like and kind. Looks like in state highway driving is uses a bit more fuel with the hills, stops and meanderings these roads do yet on the Interstate I am pleased as punch that over a 75 mile loop I do. The new tire gave away nothing. 32 mpg @ 55 mph two way average on an 80 F+ day in dead air. 

 

Of course long term trends will take time to work themselves out and I think I've proved myself a patient sort of guy. :) 

 

Old tire UTQG code was 360 BB this new tire is 740 AA. Tread wear I doubt will be double. Advertised tread depth is 11/32 but I can't find a place over 9/32 on the tire anywhere.  However instantly I know that on road temperatures reflected in tire pressure increases has improved markedly. 1 psi after two hours at 55 mph instead of 2-3 psi. I also know dry grip is pretty darn good coming of I-39 a bit to hot with a Kenworth unhappy with my late exit giving me a bit of a friendly push. ? Something wrong with his hand but his horn works perfectly :crackup:(He just didn't want to change lanes) 

 

Okay I think I have that out of my system. 

  • Like 1
Posted

8/25/2020 126,450 Mile Services

 

1.) Replaced PCV valve. 

2.) 8 quart transmission drop and fill. Red Line D-6, now 95.5% POE/PAO 4.5% Group III

3.) Alignment (partial) 

 

Ordered new extended range cams for both castor and camber. All four are frozen so setting toe was as good as it would get for today. Told 3 to 4 days for parts then next spot in the schedule. 

 

11/10/2017 was the last alignment check and set at around 49/50 K miles. I should do this more often. I'm putting it in the schedule at 25 K intervals. Next at 150 K 

 

Last 3 K miles the 6 period average mileage had dropped off about 1 mpg and I had an intermittent vibration that didn't seem to have a speed pattern. Pay it some attention I found it did it during certain sections of road and only it did it. Puzzler until I saw the toe which was way out and not shown thrust angle which was 0.2 degrees. 

 

Resized_20200825_095412.thumb.jpeg.70b8ae52d37b0672d7a0d4ae03b09564.jpeg

 

After the adjustment. 

Not enough cross camber and to much cross castor and the castor target is about a half degree high. 

Thrust angle is now dead ZERO.

 

Resized_20200825_112321.thumb.jpg.8a9626fcd412ed0b74df787c4cfb91d3.jpg

 

Toe is huge in keeping AFM active. Goal here is to lower total camber yet remain negative and lower castor while maintaining a quarter degree cross on both parameters. Almost a drag racing set up to minimize rolling resistance. Just the toe made a marked difference.  I'll trim that a bit as well. In my area where I test, roll out distance netted nearly an extra 100 feet. You don't notice the deterioration over such long periods, thus the more frequent checks and adjustments. Fuel alone will pay for the extra work. 

 

Started the wheels in motion for rebuild of the differential to include a Gleason Torsion limited slip (worm an worm wheel) and a lower Yukon gear. All new Timken bearings and SKF National Rawhide seals and a crush sleeve eliminator kit. Will retain the C clip system. 

 

Stay tuned!! 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...