Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

[Coastie05]

Impressive mileage. Can’t wait to see you hit 200,000 miles. 

[jkptuned]

What are you using to log the truck? Have you look into getting HP Tuners MPVI4? These ECU's have a ignition timing map and modifier specifically for ethanol content. The ECM (E92) uses cylinder airmass (load) x RPM to add ignition timing based on ethanol content percentage which is multiplier map 0.00-4.00 to control where it adds timing and how much it adds based on those variables. I have been doing a ton of R&D for my calibration company on the LT DI engines and these ECMs specifically. Getting fuel trims dialed in closer for the VVE and MAF calibration tables helps quite a bit in the response and drivability. There is quite a bit left on the table for sure. The pictures are screenshots of an example of 2 of the ignition timing maps. It is much more complex than these two maps but this post would be a couple miles long explaining the whole ignition timing logic and other systems that play a role into this. The first map think of it as the base timing map. The second picture E85 Adder map gets added to the base, but scaled by a multiplier based on Ethanol % before being added.

Edited Monday at 01:10 AM by jkptuned
Added more Info

[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, jkptuned said:

What are you using to log the truck? Have you look into getting HP Tuners MPVI4? These ECU's have a ignition timing map and modifier specifically for ethanol content. The ECM (E92) uses cylinder airmass (load) x RPM to add ignition timing based on ethanol content percentage which is multiplier map 0.00-4.00 to control where it adds timing and how much it adds based on those variables. I have been doing a ton of R&D for my calibration company on the LT DI engines and these ECMs specifically. Getting fuel trims dialed in closer for the VVE and MAF calibration tables helps quite a bit in the response and drivability. There is quite a bit left on the table for sure. The pictures are screenshots of an example of 2 of the ignition timing maps. It is much more complex than these two maps but this post would be a couple miles long explaining the whole ignition timing logic and other systems that play a role into this. The first map think of it as the base timing map. The second picture E85 Adder map gets added to the base, but scaled by a multiplier based on Ethanol % before being added.

 

I use the Linear Logic Scan Gauge II to observe only. I don't log ECU data. Yes, I thought about the HP system, but I met my goals without it. So far. However, I'm open to input always. 

[Grumpy Bear]

3 hours ago, Coastie05 said:

Impressive mileage. Can’t wait to see you hit 200,000 miles. 

 

Impressed myself People have been telling me since I bought it that she was going to blow any minute. 

 

200K is certainly a milestone I'm looking forward to but I have no idea how many miles it will take to quite the pessimist among us. Pattern has been; they set a goal, Pepper exceeds that goal, the goal post gets moved.  At some point I'll run out of time. It is catching up with me.  We'll see. 300K? 400K? Half a million? 

 

It's not using oil yet and that is a great sign. It's not leaking from any part of the powertrain. Another good sign. So...

[asilverblazer]

15 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Impressed myself People have been telling me since I bought it that she was going to blow any minute. 

 

200K is certainly a milestone I'm looking forward to... 300K? 400K? Half a million? 

 

It's not using oil yet and that is a great sign. It's not leaking from any part of the powertrain. Another good sign. So...

My expectation for any vehicle:

250k on the original engine and transmission. Following manufacturers recommended maintenance. (I know, another argument)

 

After that, there's not much truck left around them.

Weather: faded paint, dried out rubber and plastic, hazy headlights

Urban/Rural warfare: Door dings, rock chips, brush scratches, windshield chips, fender benders

Road wear: CV-shafts, ball joints, wheel bearings, bushings, water pumps, seals and gaskets

Kids: Stained seats, carpets, melted crayons

Oops: Got in with a screwdriver in my pocket, knocked something over in the garage on it, left the windows down in the rain...

 

It's a long road (pun intended) to keep a vehicle nice enough to continue investing in after the 10 years/250k miles.

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

My expectation for any vehicle:

250k on the original engine and transmission. Following manufacturers recommended maintenance. (I know, another argument)

 

After that, there's not much truck left around them.

Weather: faded paint, dried out rubber and plastic, hazy headlights

Urban/Rural warfare: Door dings, rock chips, brush scratches, windshield chips, fender benders

Road wear: CV-shafts, ball joints, wheel bearings, bushings, water pumps, seals and gaskets

Kids: Stained seats, carpets, melted crayons

Oops: Got in with a screwdriver in my pocket, knocked something over in the garage on it, left the windows down in the rain...

 

It's a long road (pun intended) to keep a vehicle nice enough to continue investing in after the 10 years/250k miles.

 

 

My expectations are a bit higher. 

 

No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights. 

No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier. 

 

All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things. 

Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior. 

 

Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system. 

 

OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)

 

I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass. 

 

A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years. 

 

  Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.