Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There's a service bulletin out for the link you copied. I had it done a few weeks ago and didn't fix anything.

 

Just trying to help you out, this does fix some peoples issues though!

What's your service dealer saying about your issue?

 

Good luck

Posted

Just trying to help you out, this does fix some peoples issues though!

What's your service dealer saying about your issue?

 

Good luck

 

I know thank you for that.

 

He drove the truck with me in the passenger and he said that they all do that and that's normal. This was before I gave him PIP5395A. He did the work the same day and as soon as I hit the road it started again. I know it's not normal or maybe it's not normal to here it in the cabin because the day before taking mine in to the dealer I test drove 2 other trucks (a new 17 and a used 16 with same number of miles) and inside both in the cabin I couldn't here the noise. It's driving me crazy! haha

Posted

I know thank you for that.

 

He drove the truck with me in the passenger and he said that they all do that and that's normal. This was before I gave him PIP5395A. He did the work the same day and as soon as I hit the road it started again. I know it's not normal or maybe it's not normal to here it in the cabin because the day before taking mine in to the dealer I test drove 2 other trucks (a new 17 and a used 16 with same number of miles) and inside both in the cabin I couldn't here the noise. It's driving me crazy! haha

I hope they/you drive some other trucks to compare, then you will have a good argument.

Best of luck to ya!

Posted (edited)

I am having this same issue something serious. Getting this noise and the typical squeak from the valve after the muffler. I have seen the TSB for both the valve and for the faulty flange after the Y pipe. Took the truck to the dealer and was told the squeak was normal and they wouldn't do anything about it and that they "fixed" the flutter noise by tightening a few screws in the dash and installing some foam tape in the dash. They didn't even attempt to diagnose as an exhaust issue even after I repeatedly said "exhaust leak" to the service advisor when I dropped it off. What do you know...still heard the noise. This was after they had the truck for over a week. Did nothing. Not going back to that dealer. The whole time talking to the service advisors I felt like they were just dismissing what I was saying like I didn't know a thing about cars. Typical.

Took it to another dealer last week and this was after I got under there and saw that there was definitely a leak around the crappy flange after the third cat. (pic below) This dealer ended up replacing from the flange back and said that both issues were resolved. The squeak is fixed but this noise is still there. I got under there and tried to adjust the flange/clamp and tighten it as far as it would go. Noise is still there. Wondering if it is even from there, as they noise sounds an awful lot like it is coming from in front of my shin or under my foot area. Pretty much exactly from where the drivers side cat is at. I am getting more and more irritated because I shouldn't have to be chasing down an exhaust leak, even a small one, on a brand new nearly $50k truck. I honestly feel as though the techs just don't take the time to duplicate the noise, as it is not super apparent. It is to me driving it every day though and it is growing increasingly annoying. I am toying with the idea of having a muffler shop weld that connection but then if that doesn't fix it it'll be back in the dealer and they'll be like, wtf why is this welded.

 

IMG_4668.jpg

Edited by morris.wade6
  • Like 1
Posted

I am having this same issue something serious. Getting this noise and the typical squeak from the valve after the muffler. I have seen the TSB for both the valve and for the faulty flange after the Y pipe. Took the truck to the dealer and was told the squeak was normal and they wouldn't do anything about it and that they "fixed" the flutter noise by tightening a few screws in the dash and installing some foam tape in the dash. They didn't even attempt to diagnose as an exhaust issue even after I repeatedly said "exhaust leak" to the service advisor when I dropped it off. What do you know...still heard the noise. This was after they had the truck for over a week. Did nothing. Not going back to that dealer. The whole time talking to the service advisors I felt like they were just dismissing what I was saying like I didn't know a thing about cars. Typical.

Took it to another dealer last week and this was after I got under there and saw that there was definitely a leak around the crappy flange after the third cat. (pic below) This dealer ended up replacing from the flange back and said that both issues were resolved. The squeak is fixed but this noise is still there. I got under there and tried to adjust the flange/clamp and tighten it as far as it would go. Noise is still there. Wondering if it is even from there, as they noise sounds an awful lot like it is coming from in front of my shin or under my foot area. Pretty much exactly from where the drivers side cat is at. I am getting more and more irritated because I shouldn't have to be chasing down an exhaust leak, even a small one, on a brand new nearly $50k truck. I honestly feel as though the techs just don't take the time to duplicate the noise, as it is not super apparent. It is to me driving it every day though and it is growing increasingly annoying. I am toying with the idea of having a muffler shop weld that connection but then if that doesn't fix it it'll be back in the dealer and they'll be like, wtf why is this welded.

 

IMG_4668.jpg

 

Yes, it is infuriating. I've been to the dealer twice. The second time the senior tech drove my truck with me in the passenger and said they all did that, which is false.

 

You're right it sounds like the noise is created right under the driver's feet. I'm no expert on vehicles but can it possibly be related to the transmission. The tick/rattle is directly correlated with acceleration and it only occurs in Drive. The craziest thing is that I can be driving in silence without the tick or rattle and I hit a bump in the road and it triggers it and then won't stop until I'm at a complete stop. It think if it was exhaust, injector, or pump related, it would be doing it nonstop. However, it also sounds like a pulsing or a "spraying" sound. Is there a right near the footwell that can be making that noise in the video? I'm literally exhausted from trying to find a fix for this thing.

  • Like 2
Posted

I think I remember seeing a TSB for premature catalytic converter failure, but I think it said that is usually accompanied by a trouble code. Maybe there is a piece rattling around in there but it's not clogging it enough to throw the code. That could explain why yours comes and goes with bumps Dmendoza. I haven't noticed any correlation between bumps and mine coming and going. Seems to be there all the time when I'm at cruising speeds and give it a little throttle.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone ever find a solution to this? I am still fighting GM over this, with several other issues that have come up during the process. This truck seems like it is just falling apart.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yes, it is infuriating. I've been to the dealer twice. The second time the senior tech drove my truck with me in the passenger and said they all did that, which is false.

 

You're right it sounds like the noise is created right under the driver's feet. I'm no expert on vehicles but can it possibly be related to the transmission. The tick/rattle is directly correlated with acceleration and it only occurs in Drive. The craziest thing is that I can be driving in silence without the tick or rattle and I hit a bump in the road and it triggers it and then won't stop until I'm at a complete stop. It think if it was exhaust, injector, or pump related, it would be doing it nonstop. However, it also sounds like a pulsing or a "spraying" sound. Is there a right near the footwell that can be making that noise in the video? I'm literally exhausted from trying to find a fix for this thing.

My truck has the exact same issue with the noise and it starting after hitting a bump. My dealer has replaced the exhaust clamp and the drivers side exhaust manifold with no improvement. Now the dealer mechanic claims he doesnt hear it and all the noises he hears are normal. Im going back to the dealer tomorow for transmission issues with torque converter shutter and will have them look into the noise again. Edited by hotrdlx
Posted (edited)

Well I'm dropping my truck off tomorrow for the final repair attempt after submitting a written request for a final attempt. It took a while for the appointment but they said it's the soonest the GM regional rep could make it out to the dealer. I've had it with this truck, what started with just this noise and the exhaust valve squeak (which was fixed) has now turned into a shutter on the 1 to 2 shift, a rear end clunk, a leaking differential, a scrape/rattle for a few seconds when you first start moving forward, a popping from the steering shaft when going in and out of a spot, and of course the ever persistent ticking/flutter. At this point I just want out of it. Way too many problems and quality issues for the first year of owning a $50k truck. I'm hoping for a buyback since I don't trust the model or the brand anymore, but have a feeling I'm going to end up with trade assistance. I'm sure there are a lot of guys with no issues and love their trucks and maybe mine is just a lemon. And I know the grass isn't always greener with other brands. But who knows, with the way this whole process has gone down, I wouldn't be surprised if they keep saying these things are normal and refuse to do anything. This will make 7 times in the shop, but hopefully I'll be out of it soon.

Edited by morris.wade6
Posted

Just picked my truck up after having a new torque converter installed (for the 2nd time) and once again they claim they do not hear anything out of the ordinary. I believe they just have no clue how to fix and and dont want to throw more parts at it as my bumper to bumper warranty is about to run out.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Anyone ever get a good fix on this problem ?

my truck sounds just like the original posters video and I had a torque converter installed and it came out of the local shop with a worse off leaking sound 

I changed the donut gaskets but still no fix 

it has to be the manifolds leaking 

it only does it on acceleration and cold start makes the rest of the exhaust sound like crap 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 5/13/2019 at 11:12 AM, MarcuM said:

Anyone ever get a good fix on this problem ?

my truck sounds just like the original posters video and I had a torque converter installed and it came out of the local shop with a worse off leaking sound 

I changed the donut gaskets but still no fix 

it has to be the manifolds leaking 

it only does it on acceleration and cold start makes the rest of the exhaust sound like crap 

I know this is an old thread but my 2021 6.2 has this same exact noise under the same low RPM's under load.  WTF how can this still be an issue.  The tech that looked at mine said it has something to do with cylinder deactivation and pressure when going from 8-4 cylinders.  Disappointing especially when these trucks cost so damn much.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

2014 Chevy Silverado LT: I've had a rattle up front ever since we got the truck 2 years ago and after 3 months of looking and listening and tearing the truck down I've found the problem, the exhaust doughnut gaskets. The gaskets wear down overtime causing an annoying rattle up front where the exhaust bolts up to the manifolds, I plan on going full aftermarket exhaust with the week to hopefully solve the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 522 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...