Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I'm dealing with an annoying noise in my 2016 Sierra. I noticed it a few days after purchase. I'm 1500 miles in and it's really starting to get on my nerves. Before bringing it in for service (need recall done anyway), I'm hoping to hear from anyone else as to if this is a normal sound, or if someone has had the problem fixed and what was done...

 

Basically at part throttle at highway speeds there's this almost squeaky sound that seems to come from the driver's footwell. It gets louder as the throttle is pushed down, but then the other engine noise sort of masks it. It does it in V4 and V8 although I think V4 makes it more obnoxious. I was thinking either something is loose or it's an exhaust leak, but not too sure. All I know is I have to have the radio pretty loud to drown it out, and it really is irritating.

 

I recorded a video today, hopefully you can spot the sound as I modulate the throttle up and down. Any thoughts?

 

 

Posted

It is probably the flapper valve after the muffler. There are a bunch of posts about it. Mine makes the same noise. Clamp it open with a hose Clamp and see if the noise goes away. You will hear drone and chopper in v4 with it clamped open though.

It is probably the flapper valve after the muffler. There are a bunch of posts about it. Mine makes the same noise. Clamp it open with a hose Clamp and see if the noise goes away. You will hear drone and chopper in v4 with it clamped open though.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Mine does this. Extremely annoying. I am telling them to check for the sound now, I am starting to think it's an exhaust leak up front. It is not the flapper valve noise, that is located in the back of the exhaust all the way at the rear and makes more a squeak sound, I had that replaced on my 15 and I have a 16 now

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yes, I have that noise too. Get it crusing at about 1500rpms and V4 and apply a little gas and it rattles like that. It does it when idle when cold or humid too. Very annoying. I am convinced its from the front cat on the driver's side. Dealerships haven't been able to find it and fix it, so I gave up.

  • Like 1
Posted

Being in the area you have in the video (I can't play it at work) and you have a 4x4. People have been complaining in the past that the 4WD selector switch makes a whining noise. This could be the problem as well.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Mines at the dealer now for what i would call the exact same noise, drives me insane as well and even with an aftermarket exhaust i can still hear it and makes the truck sound like a piece of crap with a manifold leak.

  • Like 1
Posted

I wonder if a chunk of ceramic broke off in the catalytic converter. I had that happen in a car once but it just stirred and rattles like that.

 

You have to remove it and give a shake to know for sure though.

Posted

Got my truck back yesterday they said it was my aftermarket Gibson headers making that same noise as onthereals video. Is yours stock?

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

still happens to me.

Fuel pressure check valve line, located at rear of engine closer to the right side.

This will make a rattling noise when check valve is defective. Check valve is located inside this short fuel line piece.

Hope this helps you find your issue, not gonna claim that this is your problem though but a possibility!

 

Here you go for a read

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?s=Check+valve&search=Search

 

Good luck

Edited by 2strokesmoke
Posted

Fuel pressure check valve line, located at rear of engine closer to the right side.

This will make a rattling noise when check valve is defective. Check valve is located inside this short fuel line piece.

Hope this helps you find your issue, not gonna claim that this is your problem though but a possibility!

 

Here you go for a read

http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?s=Check+valve&search=Search

 

Good luck

 

There's a service bulletin out for the link you copied. I had it done a few weeks ago and didn't fix anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...