Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone used the boost auto mirrors and their harnesses? Don’t remember seeing much in the thread of people using them. Still leaning towards 1a mirrors and a harness from Phil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
I just picked up a set of aftermarket DPN tow mirrors second hand. My truck is a 14 Sierra 1500 SLT with DL3 mirrors. I know I'll need the RZY harness as well as your DIY door harnesses to get the marker lights and cargo lights to work but i have another issue. after installing the new mirrors, my turn signal will turn on both sides signals on the mirrors and in the headlights but not the tail lights on the bed.If I unplug either mirror, my signals work correctly on the other mirror and headlights.  Could this be an incorrect pin layout in the connector?

This sounds like a symptom of an aftermarket tow mirror. Are you sure this is an OEM mirror? On many aftermarket mirrors (the sub $200 ones), they tie the turn signal and running lamps together on one circuit. One way to test is to apply voltage to just the running Lamp circuit (I use a 9V battery for this test).

If both the turn signal and running Lamp light up, there’s your answer. You’ll have to cut the running Lamp circuit and omit it. The turn signals and running lamps will behave like a turn signal only.

Be sure to disconnect the other while testing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 hours ago, pgamboa said:


This sounds like a symptom of an aftermarket tow mirror. Are you sure this is an OEM mirror? On many aftermarket mirrors (the sub $200 ones), they tie the turn signal and running lamps together on one circuit. One way to test is to apply voltage to just the running Lamp circuit (I use a 9V battery for this test).

If both the turn signal and running Lamp light up, there’s your answer. You’ll have to cut the running Lamp circuit and omit it. The turn signals and running lamps will behave like a turn signal only.

Be sure to disconnect the other while testing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will try that this afternoon. They are aftermarket but I was told they worked fine on the previous truck. They were pretty cheap on Craigslist so I'm assuming the worst at this point. Do you have at picture of the pinout for the mirror plug? My truck is only missing 2 pins. I think they are the cargo and marker lights. The new mirrors are missing about half the pins.

20180317_173259.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Looks like I might have a new OEM left side DQS mirror and a set of DL3 mirrors for sale. Any interest?

PM me pricing. Looking for a driver side DQS for testing purposes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I will try that this afternoon. They are aftermarket but I was told they worked fine on the previous truck. They were pretty cheap on Craigslist so I'm assuming the worst at this point. Do you have at picture of the pinout for the mirror plug? My truck is only missing 2 pins. I think they are the cargo and marker lights. The new mirrors are missing about half the pins.
20180317_173259.thumb.jpg.f618e23290d322fb22eaa93d86846e97.jpg

Looks like your original mirror is a power Folding mirror and memory. That’s why the left connector is loaded with more pins.

The connector on the right is your new mirror (I presume). The circuits are circled. If you apply + voltage to one of the light circuits and - to ground, something should illuminate.

If you apply voltage to turn signal, AND the Marker light comes on as well, that’ll tell ya.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Has anyone used the boost auto mirrors and their harnesses? Don’t remember seeing much in the thread of people using them. Still leaning towards 1a mirrors and a harness from Phil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know if Boost actually sells harnesses. I thought they just had DIY Kits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Hey so im having a little trouble with my tow mirrors,....i replaced the door harnessess and signals works,cargo lights but the minute i turn the park light on the signal stays lit!...???...what can be the problem??...can anyone help me?..... 

  • Like 1
Posted
Hey so im having a little trouble with my tow mirrors,....i replaced the door harnessess and signals works,cargo lights but the minute i turn the park light on the signal stays lit!...???...what can be the problem??...can anyone help me?..... 

What mirrors did you go with? This is a symptom of an aftermarket mirror that has the park lamp and turn signal tied to the same circuit. In this case, the park lamp circuit will need to be removed. This will mean that the park lamp will act as a turn signal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
16 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

What mirrors did you go with? This is a symptom of an aftermarket mirror that has the park lamp and turn signal tied to the same circuit. In this case, the park lamp circuit will need to be removed. This will mean that the park lamp will act as a turn signal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where do I find the circut to remove it?...in the mirror it self?... ...just by cutting the wire?

  • Like 1
Posted
Where do I find the circut to remove it?...in the mirror it self?... ...just by cutting the wire?


This is a pic of the factory mirror connector. Keep in mind, this is looking at it from the BACK of the connector where the wires enter the cavity.
e5f8fdb1a16e03bc34e253c6d46777e5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Does your mirror have an arrow in the glass for the turn signal? Or just the Amber running Lamp that shines forward? Have a link to the mirrors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
24 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

Does your mirror have an arrow in the glass for the turn signal? Or just the Amber running Lamp that shines forward? Have a link to the mirrors?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It has an arrow in the glass..

  • Like 1
Posted
It has an arrow in the glass..

Disconnect the mirror from the harness. Apply battery voltage (9V battery will work for this test) to the running light circuit and negative to ground. Does both the arrow and the running light come on? If so, then you best best is cut the running Lamp circuit off and leave the turn signal connected. This will make the arrow and the running light act as a turn signal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
55 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


Disconnect the mirror from the harness. Apply battery voltage (9V battery will work for this test) to the running light circuit and negative to ground. Does both the arrow and the running light come on? If so, then you best best is cut the running Lamp circuit off and leave the turn signal connected. This will make the arrow and the running light act as a turn signal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so when i checked on both wires ,both wires the turn signal and the parking light turn on seprate...but the min i connect to harness and turn the park light on it turns on both lights the only difference is the signal doesn’t flash it acts as a park light!.....only when the park light is on ...now if i turn the park light off and turn signal on it works as it should but if i turn park light on i loose signals becuase they act as park lights....im stuck ...all your help is truly helpful...and i aprichiate you taking your time to help me.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...