Jump to content

For those with Painted Chrome vs Powdercoat


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys Im looking for some answers or even opinions of those who've been there with really being tired of looking at all the chrome on the truck. My 14 Summit White Sierra came with SLT chromed out package, and I'm finally looking to make some changes to colormatch. A buddy of mine has found the paint and clear I need for my bumpers, door molding, mirror caps, and grill surround for $175. I know I'm gona have a tough time beating that with powdercoating=D I've heard alot of good about the powdercoating but I'm just not convinced its gona be a perfect match to the summit white. But I am also concerned about painting over chrome even if its scuffed up quite a bit for adhesion. Anyone with input would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Posted

I was quoted 175 for each bumper. The guy explained that I would have to come in with the truck to match to the white "because white isn't just white". I'm probably going to do this when I fix my bumper (fender bender). He also said I would have to dismantle them and bring them in because they won't take them off. I don't know if it's like that everywhere, but something to consider.

 

As for chrome handles and mirror caps, I was quoted 500 to paint them by a shop in Houston. Would have left them but ran across a good deal on white ones.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I was quoted $75 for each bumper and had to be removed from truck along with all plastics. The price sounded good until I started thinking why so cheap, I thought it would be more expensive. The problem with mine is I have a Siren Red and matching it would be hard.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks for the input guys! Ya i definitely wont be doing handles just because of all the wear. I would have to find a set of summit white ones. I know you can get em powdered decently cheap but its a lot of dissasembly work. I also read somewhere that if its not parked inside, it will fade quite a bit quicker. I'm guessing prep would be the same for paint or powder, just blast it and make sure prep is done right. I think paint will always be a better choice in sunlight.

Posted

I bought pull off mirror caps and door handles for my truck and they were super easy to install. I have had my door handles on for 3 1/2 years and they have not faded or chipped. The bumpers on the other hand are different. I was quoted by my paint guy $1,000 for both bumpers to be taken off, sand blasted to bare metal, powdercoated white and then painted white to match the color of my truck. He said even with sand blasting the bumpers and painting them, they chip too easily and will look terrible after a few months. He said the powdercoat is much stronger so even if the paint chips it wont be as noticeable. Also the paint adheres to the powdercoat better than the bumpers.

 

Moral of the story, do it right the first time and you won't have any problems. The only problem is initial cost.

Posted

What about wrapping them in vinyl? Maybe not white, blacking out the chrome will look much better than everything all white in my opinion.

Wrapping is more forgiving, can fix small mistakes during installation or get it done at a tint shop.

Posted

I've had several chrome bumpers and grilles painted and it's all in the prep work TBH. If you have a great painter who truly knows the craft you have nothing to worry about with paint

 

1101f5aab987e7fed6a3b7acd9a2b214.jpg

This was my '11 LML and the whole front end was chrome at purchase.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I've had several chrome bumpers and grilles painted and it's all in the prep work TBH. If you have a great painter who truly knows the craft you have nothing to worry about with paint1101f5aab987e7fed6a3b7acd9a2b214.jpg

This was my '11 LML and the whole front end was chrome at purchase.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks wildchevy- does it still look good ? Was the chrome sandblasted off? I'm leaning towards getting it powdered then paint on top..
Posted

Thanks wildchevy- does it still look good ? Was the chrome sandblasted off? I'm leaning towards getting it powdered then paint on top..

it looked good when I got rid of it lol. And it was sandblasted

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I didn't know there's different quality powders to use but apparently that makes a difference on looks. I was hoping to get paint OR powder not both but apparently since there is no definite answer the absolute best way to get matched and stay that way is powder with paint on top:P

Posted

First time on here but as someone else mentioned I would look into vynle wrap. Had my Summit white '15 done and it looks great for a reasonable price. Nice thing is if later you don't like it it can be peeled of with a little work.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

i wanted to paint my front bumper and grill, tungsten metallic. No one would do it because they can't guarantee it will stick.

Therefore i got my front wrapped in satin black. Its not a perfect match, but the satin black goes well with the black wheels and tungsten paint.

imageedit 22 5136123016

imageedit 16 6382157068

imageedit 28 6867436848

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...