Jump to content

Wireless charging

jrhoyt84
 Share

Recommended Posts

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, David Ulbrich said:

The 2018 works just fine with my iPhone X.  I just went to the dealership and tested it out.  I got the part number for the 2018 wireless charger module which is 13507652.  The parts guy said that it only stated model year 2018 for that part.  He also said that it is so new that there is no price in the system for it yet either.

I was working with another member on this.  He took apart the wireless charging lid to a 2018 and compared to a 2017.  The connector end on the 2018 is different than previous years as to why they say its not backwards to compatible.  Not a big problem though as the circuits are identical in how they are delivered to the charger.  GM just used a different connector end.  You should be able to unpin the connector and transfer it.

  • Replies 557
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ed36rgz71
Ed36rgz71

Have S8+ with a case did this quick and easy just flip the rubber part and you're good to go    

8lugCT
8lugCT

Because the charger is positioned toward the back, and with the way the pad is, the bumper on the backside pushes the phone forward away from the charger. So reversing the mat allows the phone to be p

David Ulbrich
David Ulbrich

The 2018 works just fine with my iPhone X.  I just went to the dealership and tested it out.  I got the part number for the 2018 wireless charger module which is 13507652.  The parts guy said that it

Posted Images

Doug83 Enthusiast

Doug83

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is on this site. Look at member AlabamaBishop.   Has a very simple fix for this issue.   

The topic name is 

IPhone 8 & wireless charging pad

 

look on the last page and he has a video showing what to do. 

Edited by Doug83
rtreptow7 Enthusiast

rtreptow7

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, pgamboa said:

I was working with another member on this.  He took apart the wireless charging lid to a 2018 and compared to a 2017.  The connector end on the 2018 is different than previous years as to why they say its not backwards to compatible.  Not a big problem though as the circuits are identical in how they are delivered to the charger.  GM just used a different connector end.  You should be able to unpin the connector and transfer it.

What do you mean by “unpin the connector and transfer it”?  Take the connector out of a 17 charging module and put it in a new 18 module?  Then put the 18 in your 17 truck? How do you “unpin”?

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Yep, correct. Unpin and transfer the connector.

Most Connector have a CPA (Connector position assurance) lock and a TPA (Terminal Position Assurance). These are what needs to be removed in order to unpin. Having some small detail pick tools help for the smaller connector and cavities (pun intended). Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

So if you are able to get the module form an 18, transfer it to a 16/17 Console. The 16/17 Console harness plug will have a different looking connector but the same wires, circuits, Wire colors Etc. If you can’t unpin, you can simply cut/splice. But we want the factory look....

91b3361d4e42bca7f187cf08296dfe06.jpg

380ec76a32d59e0cf4efb772ee151c7d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
David Ulbrich Enthusiast

David Ulbrich

Posted
Posted

I tried the removal trick and it did not work like in the video.  I think I am going to get the aftermarket freedom charge unit that is made for 2015 to 2017 sierras and yukons.  They also make a adapter that uses the factory plus from the cigarette lighter so no splicing of cables.

  • Like 1
Debo3883 Enthusiast

Debo3883

Posted
Posted

What removal trick are you talking about? I’d really like to be able to wirelessly charge my iPhoneX in my 2017 Denali. Any tips or tricks are appreciated. 

robsieb Enthusiast

robsieb

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Doug83 said:

I did the removal trick and my iPhone X works.

Tried it on my 2016 Sierra and no luck with my iPhone X. Wish I had access to an Android or anything else other than an iPhone. I’m starting to think the module I have may not be working but have no way to back that up. 

 

rtreptow7 Enthusiast

rtreptow7

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, pgamboa said:

So if you are able to get the module form an 18, transfer it to a 16/17 Console. The 16/17 Console harness plug will have a different looking connector but the same wires, circuits, Wire colors Etc. If you can’t unpin, you can simply cut/splice. But we want the factory look....

91b3361d4e42bca7f187cf08296dfe06.jpg

380ec76a32d59e0cf4efb772ee151c7d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So not only would I have to find the 2018 charging module to order, but I would have to get the right 2018 connector which I would guess is sold separately as its attached to the wiring in the truck. If I want to make it look factory clean and unpin the connector. I searched unpinning connectors on YouTube. It looks pretty simple. 

Edited by rtreptow7
  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
So not only would I have to find the 2018 charging module to order, but I would have to get the right 2018 connector which I would guess is sold separately as its attached to the wiring in the truck. If I want to make it look factory clean and unpin the connector. I searched unpinning connectors on YouTube. It looks pretty simple. 

I’m trying to locate the mate end connector to the module. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
8lugCT Enthusiast

8lugCT

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Debo3883 said:

What removal trick are you talking about? I’d really like to be able to wirelessly charge my iPhoneX in my 2017 Denali. Any tips or tricks are appreciated. 

Look at the link on page 8

  • Thanks 1
SSam Enthusiast

SSam

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, rtreptow7 said:

So not only would I have to find the 2018 charging module to order, but I would have to get the right 2018 connector which I would guess is sold separately as its attached to the wiring in the truck. If I want to make it look factory clean and unpin the connector. I searched unpinning connectors on YouTube. It looks pretty simple. 

Would you not take the 2018 connector off the module you purchase and put the connector from your original module on it?  

 

Another solution was mentioned in a thread where folks were replacing the mat with a 3 coil pad but can't find the thread anymore.  Maybe it got deleted for some reason...

 

-S

Edited by SSam
rtreptow7 Enthusiast

rtreptow7

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, SSam said:

Would you not take the 2018 connector off the module you purchase and put the connector from your original module on it?  

 

Another solution was mentioned in a thread where folks were replacing the mat with a 3 coil pad but can't find the thread anymore.  Maybe it got deleted for some reason...

 

-S

The new module will have the new style female end that is built in to it.  I don’t think you can take that out of the module?  Seems like it is built in. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,184 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...