Jump to content

Wireless charging

jrhoyt84
 Share

Recommended Posts

KYDMAX Enthusiast

KYDMAX

Posted
Posted

Thanks to @pgamboa I ordered one of those connectors from Mouser. I have a 2015 and swapped lids with a 2016 wireless charging lid. Looks like now Ill be retrofitting that lid with a module from a 2018 lid. Does anybody have a good price on acquiring the 13507652 module and the lead time on it? 

  • Thanks 1
  • Replies 557
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Ed36rgz71
Ed36rgz71

Have S8+ with a case did this quick and easy just flip the rubber part and you're good to go    

8lugCT
8lugCT

Because the charger is positioned toward the back, and with the way the pad is, the bumper on the backside pushes the phone forward away from the charger. So reversing the mat allows the phone to be p

David Ulbrich
David Ulbrich

The 2018 works just fine with my iPhone X.  I just went to the dealership and tested it out.  I got the part number for the 2018 wireless charger module which is 13507652.  The parts guy said that it

Posted Images

John98ls1 Enthusiast

John98ls1

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:


Shouldn’t be. Just power, ground, and charge indicator circuit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 

 

 

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Well with GM, you never really know. What’s commons sense to us, 1-hour service charge for them. 
 
 

Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
2017SierraSLT Senior Enthusiast

2017SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted
21 hours ago, David Ulbrich said:

It is not an Apple issue.  This is a GM issue.  No but of software will fix a hardware issue with the hardware that was used in the vehicle itself.

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

David Ulbrich Enthusiast

David Ulbrich

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Bangback said:

Yes, but doesn't iOS 11.2 offer up 7.5W wireless charging?  You're probably right though -- if the 16-17 chargers can't handle 5W, 7.5W isn't going to be any better?

Since the charger supposedly does not even offer the 5W that the standards state (which is the issue in the first place as they did not follow the spec standards for Qi), it does not matter what the phone will allow.  It is still going to be a hardware charger issue and not the phone or the software.

sdchrgrboy Enthusiast

sdchrgrboy

Posted
Posted

I think we need to complain to GM.  I purchased a $70k vehicle that was advertised with wireless charging.  The more of us that complain to GM, we might get them to do something about it.  The car was advertised in supporting Qi and it doesn't, not fully until 2018. That's on them.  Even if we can only get them to cover half the costs of swapping out a lid for the 2018 that would save us a few hundred $$.  

 

John98ls1 Enthusiast

John98ls1

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Oh yeah. Totally understand. Since I haven’t been able to get my wireless lid to actually charge, I can’t tell if the charging indicator icon (the one that shows on the radio) actually works. This is the only circuit that lands in the BCM.

When I place my iPhone X on the mat, my phones registers something. I get the indicator telling what battery % my phone is at, then nothing.

Hopefully this updated module gets released soon. I mainly use a hardwired mount that has a USB Cable built into it. But they don’t have a new mount for the iPhone X yet.

It just really bugs me that I stare at a non-functioning lid every time I get in the truck emoji23.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?

sorry if i missed something.

  • Like 1
Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted
On 10/29/2017 at 4:47 PM, 2017SierraSLT said:

Some of the base Tahoes come without a charger, so they have this smooth mat that fits inside the bezel..

 

s-l1600.jpg

For those that still want the part number for this, it is in the picture below in the upper left corner.  

3D3D1830-FB1B-4497-9A28-69952499B442.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/5/2017 at 4:30 PM, robsieb said:

Tried it on my 2016 Sierra and no luck with my iPhone X. Wish I had access to an Android or anything else other than an iPhone. I’m starting to think the module I have may not be working but have no way to back that up. 

 

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

Edited by Bangback
  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
so did you try with the new 2018 wireless unit or no?
sorry if i missed something.

I have not. I was working with someone who had access to a 2018 Charging module, but the road block at the time was not having the right connectors/terminals to mate them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, Bangback said:

For those of you that tried the screen/magnet removal trick and didn't have it work, I also tried this, and it didn't work at first.  No matter what orientation I put the phone in, with the charging module unscrewed from the armrest with direct phone to back of charger contact, nothing would trigger charging on the phone or the lightning bolt on the truck screen.

 

However, when I unplugged the white connector from module for a few seconds, and plugged it back in, it immediately began to work!  I had my iPhone X resting on the black charger surface when I plugged it back in, and have had no issues since.  It works in the standard rubber tray configuration, right side up, and upside down.  It works after i turn off the ignition and start it back up.

 

So if it didn't work the first time for you, try unplugging it, then plugging it back in (with the phone on the charger while you do it).  I don't know if the phone laying on the charger made any difference, but that's how it started working for me!  It even works well with the official Apple iPhone X Silicone case, which is what I am now using with it.

 

I'm not exactly sure what the screen with the magnet does.  I can imagine the magnet is to help center devices with magnets so it orients correctly with the charging coil.  My guess with the screen with the grid is perhaps it's some kind of feedback power control method?  The grid has 4 contacts of where it connects to the PCB.  The two outer ones make a loop around the screen, whereas the two middle contacts are just a short with each other.  Perhaps it senses exactly how much induction is coming out of the coil?  Maybe the side effect of having this screen is that it blocks too much of the induction?  Again, this is just pure speculation on my part.  

 

I did some testing this morning in my '17 Suburban.  I left this morning with an 87% charge on my iPhone X and put it on the armrest charger.  25 minutes later, I took a look at the phone and it was up to 94%.  The phone was not hot, and the lightning bolt was steadily displayed on the Suburban display for the entire duration.  

 

I asked a friend what he though the magnet/screen ribbon cable set up might be for.  Again, this is just pure guessing, but he thought that it looked like an antenna, and that perhaps it was acting as a filter so that only the Qi frequencies would be able to be passed from the coil?  The guess is that maybe it's just connected to filtered ground and the grid pattern itself is what is causing the filtering?  Perhaps it is something that is needed to compliance against unwanted transmissions that are out of band for Qi?   This is probably older technology and new chargers may not need this anymore?  The magnet is just used to ensure the device is properly centered on the coil, lining up with a magnet in the device itself.  

 

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
cmatt Enthusiast

cmatt

Posted
Posted
I just purchased a brand new Moto-Z, with the Tumi Moto Mod auxillary battery that transforms the phone to accept wireless charging. The phone charges fine about 2/3 of the time. My previous phone,  a Droid Turbo, charged flawlessly every time. I too am upgrading to the 2018 setup, with the updated rubber mat once it is available.

 

So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Edit: Nvm, saw your confirmation on another post. Do you have the rubber mat part number?

Bangback Enthusiast

Bangback

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, cmatt said:

 


So the 2018s have a different charging module and rubber console mat?

 

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

Edited by Bangback
rtreptow7 Enthusiast

rtreptow7

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, Bangback said:

Yes, the 2018 has a different charging module.

 

Some have said that the rubber console mat (or as GM calls it, just "LINER") is different, or at least a different part number.  From the pictures I have seen on chevrolet.com, it looks the same compared to 2017, but it's possible it could be different?

 

I tried the mod posted by another user on this thread to my '17 charger by removing the screen/magnet, and it seems to be working, even with the '17 rubber liner and '17 bezel, in the factory configuration, without having to flip the rubber, etc, that others have had to do.  With it working with the '17 parts, perhaps the '18 parts are the same as the '17 and earlier, with the exception for the '18 charger (plus the different connector)?

 

 

It baffles me why this works for some and not for others?  I have a 2017 and iPhone 8. After magnet and screen removal it only works if phone is laying on the mat before you start the truck. Little lightning bolt pops up on dash screen and phone charges. If I remove the phone and place it back there after the truck is started..it won’t work.  Won’t work again until I turn off the truck, make sure phone is on the mat, then start the truck again. Why the inconsistency??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 806 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • B07
      Anyone have a spare?

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...