Jump to content

Adding a Dual Battery

bsprtsgrp
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, RACERX7775 said:

What about adding another ground sensor for batt2 and wire that one into the factory sensor... they only cost like $25.

Im not sure of that would work. No clue if the truck could regulate 2    might as well give it a try.  

 

Personally i would have wired it differantly and upgraded the ground and alt wire but thats just me   

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

tenscourts
tenscourts

I've gone through this entire process. See my build thread and pm me if you need additional info. BTW the OE battery size will not fit the second tray. Again, read my thread. I have part #s, pictures,

Vuk
Vuk

This is the battery tray, secondary auxiliary relay, and the optional 3 fuse box and cover for older model years if you want to replace the single fuse box on the aux battery harness:

Vuk
Vuk

My setup is complete now with nice factory-looking points to hook up an inverter. Should I ever need to jump start the primary battery, I can always run jump cables from aux battery to the primary.

Posted Images

RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

 

 

Personally i would have wired it differantly and upgraded the ground and alt wire but thats just me   

Usually, that would be the first thing i usually would do. But when i did the stereo on this truck, for some reason, since i did the charge cable to the second battery, i didnt wanna touch anything that was attached to the factory battery. I dont know why.... but that was just my thought...

 

 

This discussion has way more posts than i ever thought. The thing i noticed about some threads on here is, like this one, we can have thoughts and posts, right or wrong, and none of us has been rude, disrespectful, and nasty(no pun intended). This just shows that most who are on here really are nice people who want to help others.  

 

Wow, i feel like my fem side just came out. LOL... Now Im gonna finish my beer...

higsy Enthusiast

higsy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.. hope you don't mind me asking a question related to the dual battery... I'm running a factory isolator which needs a 12v and a 12v switched. My truck being a 2018 there don't seem to be alot of information regarding this... is there a switched 12v in the under hood fuse box ?

RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted

Sure there is. What FACTORY isolator do you have? Didnt even know there was one. Your truck come with single or dual batts? I wanted to go completely factory when i did my setup, but it was more than i wanted. 

higsy Enthusiast

higsy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys.. hope you don't mind me asking a question related to the dual battery... I'm running a factory isolator which needs a 12v and a 12v switched. My truck being a 2018 there don't seem to be alot of information regarding this... is there a switched 12v in the under hood

higsy Enthusiast

higsy

Posted
Posted

GM P/N 12135194). GM calls this a "secondary auxiliary relay".  I've got a single battery but I'm upgrading.

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, higsy said:

GM P/N 12135194). GM calls this a "secondary auxiliary relay".  I've got a single battery but I'm upgrading.

There is but this begs the question.....why not just keep buying the stock PnP parts? 

 

RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

There is but this begs the question.....why not just keep buying the stock PnP parts? 

 

Lol. And the topic cycle starts again. Lol

Edited by RACERX7775
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted
I was litterally just on the internet looking at 200amp isolators for $59.
Yes this stock part is cheaper but not rated as high not that that is needed. But the price on the wiring for gm is up there. Still 200 for the whole kit isn't bad.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted

I guess depending on how much power is needed, it might be a good way to go. With both of my JL Audio amps, my max power is only 130 amps. I just tend to go bigger than what is needed. With everything. Thats why all my cable is 2/0..

higsy Enthusiast

higsy

Posted
Posted

Everything I got was cheap , as in not directly from gm , but mouser and a few others. Making the cables myself (1/0). 

Now what I'm looking for is 12v switched in the engine bay ??

RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted

I cant tell you exactly what wire to hook up to. But just get the owners manual and find a switched fuse that you can tap into.

higsy Enthusiast

higsy

Posted
Posted

I was hoping to use an open pin or circuit.  Is this possible... I want to make sure I don't mess up anything in the bcm.. the electronics seem pretty touchy. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...