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Adding a Dual Battery


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19 minutes ago, Sloverado said:

Bringing up old thread. I am looking to do this upgrade and I’m also have another question maybe someone can answer. I have a 170 amp alt and was wondering if the 84143539 220 amp would be a replacement for it? I have a 17 with the 6.2. My dealer ship wasn’t much help when asking

Id grab a real HO alt myself. Stock alts or meh.  Dc power or US alternators.   Our stock 170 atls probably only put out 100-120 amps hot.  

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Bringing up old thread. I am looking to do this upgrade and I’m also have another question maybe someone can answer. I have a 170 amp alt and was wondering if the 84143539 220 amp would be a replacement for it? I have a 17 with the 6.2. My dealer ship wasn’t much help when asking
If you just want the higher amp alternator for the dual setup I can attest you don't need it. The stock will maintain them both no problem. If you need it for another purpose please report your findings. I've had a dealer tell me changing the alternator required programming. I don't know that I believe them but with these trucks it wouldn't surprise me. On a side note I can also attest that when you accidentally run your primary battery too low to crank your truck the secondary will definitely do the job. Linked mine via the push button on my ACR and she cranked right up!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

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  • 4 weeks later...

If you wanna go completely factory for the second battery, it's alot of work. When i did mine, i made my own cables. The routing is totally different. I just went from + batt1 to + batt2. I also did + from alt to + batt2.  - from batt2 to engine and chassis. All of my aftermarket stereo power gets power from batt2.

20180523_192637.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
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I believe you would need part number 22989633 for the correct battery tray and the tie-down
 
 
130221TK02-208.thumb.JPG.4d05fa25dddb6d90de4ddca59c1d3f6a.JPG
Battery tray isn't needed the factory tray works with some batteries and with Optima batteries as they come with the adapter. All you need is the hold down $7 part. I did this on my truck and posted pics.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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5 hours ago, RACERX7775 said:

If you wanna go completely factory for the second battery, it's alot of work. When i did mine, i made my own cables. The routing is totally different. I just went from + batt1 to + batt2. I also did + from alt to + batt2.  - from batt2 to engine and chassis. All of my aftermarket stereo power gets power from batt2.

20180523_192637.jpg

Are both grounds going through the battery current sensor? If not youll run into high charge issues

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If you just want the higher amp alternator for the dual setup I can attest you don't need it. The stock will maintain them both no problem. If you need it for another purpose please report your findings. I've had a dealer tell me changing the alternator required programming. I don't know that I believe them but with these trucks it wouldn't surprise me. On a side note I can also attest that when you accidentally run your primary battery too low to crank your truck the secondary will definitely do the job. Linked mine via the push button on my ACR and she cranked right up!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk. My build thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/192614-Tenscourts'-2016-LTZ/Z71-CCSB-4WD-Silverado

Without a isolator then when the truck dies both batteries are dead. It will not start. Also one battery goes weak and the other will suffer. Charge system will have a hell of a time.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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I wasnt looking to isolate either of them.  It was more of a way to keep voltage spikes at a min from the stereo system. This isnt my first time doing this thing.  If done right, you wont hurt anything. I had these in the back of my excursion with 2 more up front.

20140507_093122.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
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