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Max Travel Trailer Weight for 5.3


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Posted

2016 Silverado LT-Z71 Double Cab 5.3/6 speed/4x4. Do not have the NHT max towing package. I have a leveling kit and 34" load range E tires. I currently own a 18', 3500 pound travel trailer and it tows just fine. Was looking at upgrading to a 27'+ travel trailer. Seems like most of them have dry weights of 7,000-8,000 pounds with hitch weights in the 600-700 pound range.

 

I usually travel about 100 miles one way to the lake. No real big mountain climbing or anything like that. I will occasionally travel further. Can I realistically rely on my 1500 5.3 to tow it or should I look into a 6.2 or even a Duramax? I know this has been asked before, but any help would be appreciated.

Posted

2016 Silverado LT-Z71 Double Cab 5.3/6 speed/4x4. Do not have the NHT max towing package. I have a leveling kit and 34" load range E tires. I currently own a 18', 3500 pound travel trailer and it tows just fine. Was looking at upgrading to a 27'+ travel trailer. Seems like most of them have dry weights of 7,000-8,000 pounds with hitch weights in the 600-700 pound range.

 

I usually travel about 100 miles one way to the lake. No real big mountain climbing or anything like that. I will occasionally travel further. Can I realistically rely on my 1500 5.3 to tow it or should I look into a 6.2 or even a Duramax? I know this has been asked before, but any help would be appreciated.

It'll probably sag a touch because you don't have the rake anymore. Larger diameter tires will reduce your acceleration a little. Your tongue weight should be a little heavier for stability. But as long as you stick to your limits it should be fine.

 

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Posted

Once you load up with all your gear and all the people you are bringing you will be approaching the limits that your truck is rated for.

 

It shouldn't matter if your truck squats a bit due to tongue weight. I see people every weekend driving like that.

 

You just need to be aware of how it affects the handling of your truck to pull something over 9,000 lbs, and steer it in the wind and stop it when someone cuts you off. See if you can test drive one before you pull the trigger. You can probably pull it just fine, and I'm sure people do. Just be aware that you are responsible for any risk you take and any excessive wear and tear you put on your truck. No one on an internet forum is going to help you if you ever get in, or cause, an accident due to towing something that large with a 1/2 ton truck.

Posted

Ditch the level and 34's and you'll be fine............near the upper limit for the truck but probably OK.

Posted

You should be ok to pull a 7000 pound trailer using a weight distribution hitch and a quality brake controller assuming your truck has a 3.42 gear ratio. Keep in mind what you place inside your trailer as that gear plus any water in tank(s), fuel adds up fast.

Add a larger rear block to get back some rake so you aren't squatting so much. Assume that you are towing once every other month or so to the lake. If doing this bi-weekly or weekly consider a 3/4 ton instead. Will be less stressful on the truck plus the uprated brakes and suspension give more safety margin.

Posted

33ft hitch to bumper 6600 dry 800lbs tongue appx 7600 loaded. 5.3 3.42 33 "e" tires level with bilstein and a good Wdh. Would a 3/4 do better of course but I've no issues up and down the hills of ky/southern In.a13f9e95a05507581d7d072dd22bdff7.jpg

 

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Posted

I pull a pretty stout 21 footer that's right around 6500 lbs ready to go. No problem at all around town with the same set up as you, but out on the interstate, when the wind catches the front of that camper, it works really, really hard to maintain highway speeds. I'm sure you "can" do it...but I'm not sure how much you'll enjoy it. I'd much prefer the extra HP, torque and brakes of a 2500 to what I'm pulling with now. FWIW.

 

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Posted

Thanks for the input guys. I only plan to tow the camper MAX twice a month. And 90% of my trips will just be the 100 mile (200 mile round trip) trek to the lake. My main concern was just the long term wear and tear on a 1500 compared to a 2500 duramax. Don't want to spring for a diesel, but I don't want to prematurely tear up my 1500 either. I do plan on getting some upgrades such as a weight distributing hitch, air bags for rear end, and possibly a Black Bear tune to give me some extra power.

Posted

Can someone please explain why 34" tires are not good for towing compared to 31.9" stockers? I assumed the larger size actually helped gearing. Plus OP has 10 ply Load E tires compared to stock 4 ply.

G88 you will be fine IMO but the tune will void your powertrain warranty should something go out.

Posted

Can someone please explain why 34" tires are not good for towing compared to 31.9" stockers? I assumed the larger size actually helped gearing. Plus OP has 10 ply Load E tires compared to stock 4 ply.

G88 you will be fine IMO but the tune will void your powertrain warranty should something go out.

Only thing I can think of is the extra weight of the 34s? But you definitely want Load E tires when towing that much. I know it'll void the warranty, but I would say anymore winning a warranty case unless it's plain as day their fault is hard to come by.

Posted

Assume that you are running 275/65 on 20's or 295/70 on 18's which are lightweight (57-64 pounds) compared to my 33" Toyo RTs at 69 pounds.

As for the warranty with my torque converter issues I don't want to risk something else happens and the dealer tells me to pound sand.

Posted

Only thing I can think of is the extra weight of the 34s? But you definitely want Load E tires when towing that much. I know it'll void the warranty, but I would say anymore winning a warranty case unless it's plain as day their fault is hard to come by.

 

With your larger tires and if you have an OEM 3.42 rear you are essentially reducing your rear-end gear ratio to about 3.18 - 3.20

Posted

With a 3.08 you're more like 2.92.... I'll calc it late r

 

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