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New brake pads

bcazier

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SouthernSilveradoGuy85 Senior Enthusiast

SouthernSilveradoGuy85

Posted
Posted

For as long as I can remember the manuals for at least the GM 1/2 tons have said 140 ft/lbs for the lugs. As for the caliper bolts I would just tighten them until you can't anymore by hand and put blue thread locker on them.

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mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

Verdict is? 7-10k more or a lot more? 51k to date.

 

 

your kidding right? Check back in 50K see where they are at.........jeesh that is what we all figured they would look like

Sledge8 Enthusiast

Sledge8

Posted
Posted

The verdict is, find another dealer...this one just tried to hose you.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

I caught my dealer once in this same scam back in 2007. They told me on the phone I needed new rear pads. I said are you sure? I just rotated my tires and they were fine. Can you go have another look. They called back and said they mistaken a different truck as mine and mine were fine..... A- holes!

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

Yup, They did it then and continue today! My pops told me years ago they got him on the only changing the outside pads trick! Spread em wide boys when going to the dealer!

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

Posted
Posted

Spread em wide boys when going to the dealer!

I'll keep that in mind next time I'm at Midas and they sell me a $2500 brake job on a 20k mile car. Good thing I didn't go to the dealer, probably would've been $6000!!!!

Some peoples misinformed opinion you'll never change, just don't try passing it off as fact, jack ?

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

I'll keep that in mind next time I'm at Midas and they sell me a $2500 brake job on a 20k mile car. Good thing I didn't go to the dealer, probably would've been $6000!!!!

Some peoples misinformed opinion you'll never change, just don't try passing it off as fact, jack

 

 

 

Ok, whatever....dude wanted opinions about his brakes on his rig? Well that was his "dealers" idea not mine? Be very cautious at any "dealer" son they are business to sell, business? That is a fact, Jack! I am glad he took it upon himself to check? Unfortunately the cruel reality of a capitalist society? Happens all to often......Send a little OL lady into a dealership for some minor work....bud? Then come spout off...........

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

I did all my fluids a couple times by 50k...

 

I think the severe cycle is 50k on the trans and 37.5k on the transfercase? I can't remember for sure off the top of my head...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Adamrg Enthusiast

Adamrg

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Ok, whatever....dude wanted opinions about his brakes on his rig? Well that was his "dealers" idea not mine? Be very cautious at any "dealer" son they are business to sell, business? That is a fact, Jack! I am glad he took it upon himself to check? Unfortunately the cruel reality of a capitalist society? Happens all to often......Send a little OL lady into a dealership for some minor work....bud? Then come spout off...........

I'm not here for a pissing contest, so with that said, you're right. Case closed

 

 

While I am thinking about how they tried to bend me over, what's the opinion on transmission and transfer case fluid change around 50 K

Hopefully this link is ok to post, i reference gm literature but this is the same info

http://www.duramaxhub.com/duramax-maintenance.html

 

I've also beat my head against the wall about switching over to transynd fluid when I'm due for trans service, I'm still contemplating. Synthetic fluid that Allison says is good for 150k under all conditions

Supreme Pizza Senior Enthusiast

Supreme Pizza

Posted
Posted

Rule #1, don't go to the dealer.

 

Rule #2, don't go to the dealer.

 

 

Obviously your brakes are fine. I do brake jobs for people all the time, and I charge $100 total. Most of the time, all it needs is pads. The pads cost me $10, and it takes 30 minutes to swap them out. If you go to the dealer, they will tell you the pads are getting fairly low, and that you need brakes. They replace the pads, resurface the rotors, replace the calipers, change the brake fluid, etc - and charge you $750 for something that you absolutely did not need. If you look at that picture, there is a "squeaker" in the picture. Its a thin metal tab that is attached to the backing plate. When the pad wears down far enough, that metal tab comes in contact with the rotor and causes a "sqeak" when you apply the brakes. Its put there intentionally as an indicator that the brakes are getting low. At that point, you have a few months left at most, before the brakes are metal to metal. No damage is done to the rotor until you are metal to metal (low grinding sound, and you can feel it in the peddle). So once you hear the squeak, buy some $10 pads and a Chilton repair manual. Or buy the pads and find a mechanic on Craigslist that will swap them out for $50. The next time you feel like going to the dealer, "STOP"!

 

Common types:

 

Organic pads: Cheap, wear out faster, easy on the rotors.

Semi metallic: Standard on many vehicles. Good middle ground. (most common)

Ceramic: Standard on many newer vehicles. Considered to be "very good" pads.

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