Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My driverside running lights work only when the truck is automatic started. When the key is inserted they go off. I was wonder had anyone else ran into this problem. Thanks in advance

Posted

Running lamps only come on when the headlights are on - or in the case of remote start - or when the parking lights are turned on manually.

 

So to test things - use the light control knob to turn the parking lights on and off - make sure that all the lights go on and off with this control.

 

They should also go on with remote start - and go off when the key is turned on - during daylight hours -but remain on at night.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I have the same problem on my 2015 silverado. Right side works great. Left side drl not coming on. Lights work fine at night, but the drl only works on the right side. Has anyone found a solution to this problem? 

  • 5 months later...
Posted

To follow up on this, the instructions said to tie into one side and run the wire to the other headlight. This was causing the drls not to work on the far side. I ended up tying into the key on power on both sides and that solved my problem.

 

Hope that helps

Posted

I've seen a ton of GM's driving around with one drl on, including my own 2009 CTS I used to have. 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/4/2018 at 9:40 AM, cdh027 said:

I've seen a ton of GM's driving around with one drl on, including my own 2009 CTS I used to have. 

GM's 'signature' look for the last 15 years or so...

 

(once they get some time/miles on them)

Posted

Whats crazyier. The automatic control lights are now using the same bulb as the signal. The signal works so it's not the socket. Makes no freaking sense. 

  • 8 months later...
Posted

The signal and the running lights are the same bulb, two filaments inside. I had one that wasn't working, replaced the bulb and now it works. If one hole side is out it could possible be a fuse but if the blinker works on that side then it's probably the bulb.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

2015 2500 SLE drivers side drl was out. Blinker would work but not the drl. I changed the bulb and it works again but the right side drl stopped working right after changing the left. Maybe a bad fuse? 

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...