Jump to content

12 volt power sources needed

Sour_Squirrel

By Sour_Squirrel
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Raxnar said:

They are saying it needs a fuse greater than 20A, obviously this one you found for easy connecting is 50A.  Do you think this will still work for the Cellink Neo Battery?

 

I know, you probably aren't familiar with the battery product but you seem to know a bit more about electrical than I do.

 

Should I maybe put a 20A fuse between the spade connector and the battery?

 

Ya you can still use this spade terminal.  Fuse ratings are a capacity and the actual current going through the circuit is based on the loads that are connected to it.  So in theory since this device charges at 9A you could safely run 5 of these at once off that single point(which you wouldn't)

 

Yes, you absolutely should should go from that spade terminal to a Inline fuse.  I would also recommend trying to stick with the same kind of fuses the truck already uses(micro 2) so you can use the spares chevy conveniently provides in the case you end up blowing one. 

 

Ideally fuses are chosen to protect a given wire size and the wire size is chosen based on the current the load is going to pull.  Usually for 20A you would want 12G or 14G wire.

  • Thanks 1
Raxnar Enthusiast

Raxnar

Posted
Posted
47 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

Ya you can still use this spade terminal.  Fuse ratings are a capacity and the actual current going through the circuit is based on the loads that are connected to it.  So in theory since this device charges at 9A you could safely run 5 of these at once off that single point(which you wouldn't)

 

Yes, you absolutely should should go from that spade terminal to a Inline fuse.  I would also recommend trying to stick with the same kind of fuses the truck already uses(micro 2) so you can use the spares chevy conveniently provides in the case you end up blowing one. 

 

Ideally fuses are chosen to protect a given wire size and the wire size is chosen based on the current the load is going to pull.  Usually for 20A you would want 12G or 14G wire.

Thanks!  That is where my head was going and what I'll be doing.

 

The reason for the Cellink Neo is I had a Dashcam in my Subaru STI but it wouldn't last more than 30 minutes before it would shutdown due to low battery. Thinkware 750 with rear camera. 

 

Now I have the F800 Pro and rear camera.  The Cellink Neo gives a couple days of parking recording if memory serves me.

 

So something like this would do the trick nicely.

- https://www.amazon.ca/KOLACEN-Automotive-Truck-Holder-Pieces/dp/B07C5QK4LW/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1528173445&sr=8-5&keywords=inline+fuse+14+awg

 

Again, thanks!

 

Crazyjoker77 Enthusiast

Crazyjoker77

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Raxnar said:

Thanks!  That is where my head was going and what I'll be doing.

 

The reason for the Cellink Neo is I had a Dashcam in my Subaru STI but it wouldn't last more than 30 minutes before it would shutdown due to low battery. Thinkware 750 with rear camera. 

 

Now I have the F800 Pro and rear camera.  The Cellink Neo gives a couple days of parking recording if memory serves me.

 

So something like this would do the trick nicely.

- https://www.amazon.ca/KOLACEN-Automotive-Truck-Holder-Pieces/dp/B07C5QK4LW/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1528173445&sr=8-5&keywords=inline+fuse+14+awg

 

Again, thanks!

 

 

 

I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine.  I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery  in case the primary starting battery goes dead.  Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers.  You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing...

 

most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts.  The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though.

 

There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse

https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic

 

That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.

 

 

  • Like 1
WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted

Just got my BlackVue DR900S-2CH with their ultra battery pack which will allow me full 24 hour recording without killing the battery.

Will instal after the lift this weekend and try to record the instal. Great set up - bran new cams.

Raxnar Enthusiast

Raxnar

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

 

I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine.  I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery  in case the primary starting battery goes dead.  Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers.  You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing...

 

most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts.  The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though.

 

There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse

https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic

 

That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.

 

 

I thought about the 2nd battery route myself and may eventually still do it. The special replacement cable is like $180 and a decent battery is about $200-250, so yes it is similar in price and offers more for the truck.

If I do the second battery I'll have the dealership do it to not void warranty, the truck is not even 2 months old.

 

I also had a $100 gift card to use at Blackboxmycar.ca so that helped :)

Raxnar Enthusiast

Raxnar

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, WesternMike said:

Just got my BlackVue DR900S-2CH with their ultra battery pack which will allow me full 24 hour recording without killing the battery.

Will instal after the lift this weekend and try to record the instal. Great set up - bran new cams.

I looked at the Blackvue camera, couldn't justify the $200-300 price increase for 4k video only on the front. Other than that they are very comparable dash cams.

 

Blackvue have also degraded quality wise from the reviews I've read lately.

 

I hope you enjoy the camera though!

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted
I looked at the Blackvue camera, couldn't justify the $200-300 price increase for 4k video only on the front. Other than that they are very comparable dash cams.
 
Blackvue have also degraded quality wise from the reviews I've read lately.
 
I hope you enjoy the camera though!



Degraded? From what I’ve read they went up since last model. They even went with a better newer compression. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure they’re new one I’m getting(not sure if released yet) is much better than previous.
Raxnar Enthusiast

Raxnar

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, WesternMike said:

 

 


Degraded? From what I’ve read they went up since last model. They even went with a better newer compression. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure they’re new one I’m getting(not sure if released yet) is much better than previous.

 

 

I hope that is the case and the reviews and Vendor recommendations are off.

 

Keep us updated on how it works out!

WesternMike Enthusiast

WesternMike

Posted
Posted
I hope that is the case and the reviews and Vendor recommendations are off.
 
Keep us updated on how it works out!


Will do man!
  • 4 weeks later...
Wolfangovich Enthusiast

Wolfangovich

Posted
Posted

Hi there.

I am working on almost the same thing, maybe I missed it in one of the posts.

Could I get clarification.

I have 2014 Sierra SLT. Putting in Vantrue x3 dashcam. Would like to hardwire from passenger fuse panel. Have a micro2 tap. Which fuse would be the always on fuse. All the short acronyms are confusing.

Thanks in advance.

  • 11 months later...
  • 1 year later...
Mattd2014 New Member

Mattd2014

Posted
Posted
On 9/18/2017 at 1:11 AM, Crazyjoker77 said:

I just hardwired my dash cam last week. In my truck there was no switched power in the passenger side only constant 12V. Drivers side has a dedicated stake for switched power (or RPO as chevy calls it) Just use a inline fuse with a standard female spade connector.

 

You will also find that mini add a fuse is useless as these trucks use a new standard in fuses called Micro2 (different from micro). I was unable to find a micro 2 add-a-circuit in any of the stores locally.

 

heres a picture showing the dedicated RPO power in the drivers side interior fuse box.(where the blue stak-on is) Alternatevly if you have to use a add-a-circuit that brown 7.5A fuse is also a switched source and is for the heated steering wheel that most trucks don't have but the fuse is always there.

 

f42962f6ad1cef377e854a9f6122ed8e.jpg

Just to note, that 7.5 brown fuse supplies the steering wheel air bag coil as well. I'd use caution before tapping into it.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By Another JR · Posted

      On 2021 3500hd it consistently sets automatically when selecting park if the incline/decline is above a certain angle. 
    • Policeoff01
      Feeling Vibration and Jiggles in 2024 HD Gasser Steering Wheel

      By Policeoff01 · Posted

      Curious, did anyone ever get a fix for the vibration reported here.   I have a 2024 Silverado with 6.6 duramax.   I’m noting the same vibration resonating up through the steering shaft into the steering wheel.    Best way to describe- like someone is tapping on the steering shaft/components and it’s resonating into the steering wheel.    thanks. 
    • Gkistler
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By Gkistler · Posted

      Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...