Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to hard wire my dash cam but I'm having trouble finding a 12 volt accessory source at the fuse panel.

That is, a 12 volt fuse that's on in the accessory or on position and 0 volts when the key is in the off position. It doesn't matter which side fuse panel it's on. Please help...

 

Maybe someone that already has their dash cam or even a radar detector hard wired in their truck.

  • Like 1
Posted

I used a Micro 2, "SEO" fuse that had RAP power for my radar detector. It was on the drivers side fuse panel.


Think it is the Special Equipment fuse.


Should work great.



-S


Posted

I want to hard wire my dash cam but I'm having trouble finding a 12 volt accessory source at the fuse panel.

That is, a 12 volt fuse that's on in the accessory or on position and 0 volts when the key is in the off position. It doesn't matter which side fuse panel it's on. Please help...

 

Maybe someone that already has their dash cam or even a radar detector hard wired in their truck.

Funny you mention this. I just received my SG9665 dashcam today and will be installing it tomorrow. Should have a How-To for it. I won't be installing an Add-A-Fuse but rather removing an existing RAP Circuit (Same as the center console 12V) and recrimping the terminal with an extra wire to it. I am looking at the passenger side X51R Fuse Panel but recall seeing one in the driver side too.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I was planning on making the installation as simple as possible by using a fuse tap to and existing fuse circuit.

I think I did notice a couple of RAP breakers on the passenger side but I can't use the fuse taps I have on those circuits.

I have a couple of mini ATC fuse taps I wanted to use to hard wire my dash cam. Those two RAP breakers don't look like a traditional fuse (ATC, mini ATC).

Posted

Owners manual shows several 'upfitter' locations and a couple SEO locations.

 

 

Don't forget there are fuse blocks in both ends of the instrument panel.

Posted (edited)

I just hardwired my dash cam last week. In my truck there was no switched power in the passenger side only constant 12V. Drivers side has a dedicated stake for switched power (or RPO as chevy calls it) Just use a inline fuse with a standard female spade connector.

 

You will also find that mini add a fuse is useless as these trucks use a new standard in fuses called Micro2 (different from micro). I was unable to find a micro 2 add-a-circuit in any of the stores locally.

 

heres a picture showing the dedicated RPO power in the drivers side interior fuse box.(where the blue stak-on is) Alternatevly if you have to use a add-a-circuit that brown 7.5A fuse is also a switched source and is for the heated steering wheel that most trucks don't have but the fuse is always there.

 

f42962f6ad1cef377e854a9f6122ed8e.jpg

Edited by Crazyjoker77
Posted

I used the same terminal that Crazyjoker references when I hardwired my V1. Works perfectly. No issue finding a ground either as there is a bolt right next to the drivers side fuse panel.

Posted

I used the same terminal that Crazyjoker references when I hardwired my V1. Works perfectly. No issue finding a ground either as there is a bolt right next to the drivers side fuse panel.

X3 - did the same thing to wire my V1 as well. $10 for direct power. 2-3 minute install.

 

Next up will be a dash cam.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Do you add a relay to take the load off that circuit?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Not necessary by any means.

Posted

Not necessary by any means.

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

The dash cam referenced in this thread operates at ~5volts and requires a step-down, so very minimal power draw even if combined with a radar detector. If you are using an Add-a-fuse you can draw whatever the stock wiring can handle and fuse it properly (18-20AWG?)

Edited by AaronArf
Posted

I installed my radar detector using a 12v switched. If you search for radar detector install you will see there is a 12v switched in the top console. Easy to take down and tap into.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

How much load is that circuit capable of providing? I'm thinking of multiple widgets being placed on that circuit might create a problem...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

50A! Guess I should clarify my first post its not really a dedicated stake for switched power just happens to be super convenient for it. What it actually is a way to switch your front 12v outlets from always on to RPO by just moving that 50A fuse over.(and now your left with a dedicated constant 12v stake).

 

Heres a picture showing it with the fuse moved over making the 12v receptacles in the dash now switched power.

post-155272-146652685792.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 9/18/2017 at 5:09 PM, Crazyjoker77 said:

50A! Guess I should clarify my first post its not really a dedicated stake for switched power just happens to be super convenient for it. What it actually is a way to switch your front 12v outlets from always on to RPO by just moving that 50A fuse over.(and now your left with a dedicated constant 12v stake).

 

Heres a picture showing it with the fuse moved over making the 12v receptacles in the dash now switched power.

post-155272-146652685792.jpg

Glad I found this thread! I just picked up my new Thinkware F800 Pro and a Cellink Neo battery for the Camera.

 

I'm not great at electrical wiring but can fumble my way though installs like this.

 

My truck is the 2018 1500 Crew Cab Redline edition, picked it up in April.

 

The instructions for the Hardwiring are in the attached picture, sorry about the chinese characters :)

image.png.a7eaae9364f7ce8c39ddfd6990480f88.png

 

They are saying it needs a fuse greater than 20A, obviously this one you found for easy connecting is 50A.  Do you think this will still work for the Cellink Neo Battery?

 

I know, you probably aren't familiar with the battery product but you seem to know a bit more about electrical than I do.

 

Should I maybe put a 20A fuse between the spade connector and the battery?

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I find it amusing the OP doesn’t realize this threads heading includes several engines. He should have posted in the off topic section if he wanted a more narrow focus. I really appreciate and find amusing that he actually pointed out one of my many vehicles. The Odyssey. That happens to use 0-20 oil. I love pushing his buttons. 
    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...