Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking to get a travel trailer. The one i am looking at is 7800lbs and 35ft long. Not a perfect world, just wondering if the length is too much for my truck. Its a 14 5.3 high country cc. I have air bags tow mirrors and 180 t stat.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

You must be the first person to ever ask if the length is your limiting factor.

 

That trailer is pushing the limits of your towing capacity. I'm sure you can pull it just fine in ideal conditions, but when the weather, or other drivers force you to make quick adjustments, will the tail be wagging the dog?

 

You can buy that trailer with a weight distributing hitch and probly get along fine. But the wiser decision would be to get a 3/4 ton truck or choose a smaller TT.

Posted

You must be the first person to ever ask if the length is your limiting factor.

 

That trailer is pushing the limits of your towing capacity. I'm sure you can pull it just fine in ideal conditions, but when the weather, or other drivers force you to make quick adjustments, will the tail be wagging the dog?

 

You can buy that trailer with a weight distributing hitch and probly get along fine. But the wiser decision would be to get a 3/4 ton truck or choose a smaller TT.

I definitely am going to get a 2500 series within a year or so just waiting for pricing and to get a few extra funds. The trailer does come with a reese wight distribution hitch, if its not a gd one I will most likely look to upgrade it to get a really good one considering the factors. The truck has a 342 rear

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

In a nutshell, oh hell no! If your heart is set on that trailer, wait until you can afford the trailer and a 2500 to tow it, otherwise downsize your trailer dreams to something manageable and safe for you, your family, and the 1500 to tow.

Posted

In a nut shell sure, you still have almost 2000 lbs to play with in towing capacity and you have a few towing upgrades, you're fine; especially for only a year or so. They over engineer these trucks, I would have zero concern. Shoot, we used to tow a 3900 lb dry weight boat with an astro van around the northern mid west for years, that wasn't including the family of 4, 1000 lb trailer and other trip needs. Enjoy!

 

Tyler

Posted

I have a 34ft. travel trailer that is probably 8200# loaded (6858# dry weight).

 

My Sierra pulls it well, but it is heavy for the truck. Bounces alot. I'll most likely go 2500 when my lease is up next year.

 

Get the Equalizer 4-point hitch - will make all the difference with sway, etc. It is a $600 hitch, but you won't regret the purchase.

 

I've pulled ours a few times locally and it is decent. I am hesitant to take a long trip without either modifying the truck (Roadmaster Active, bags, something) to minimize rear bounce or upgrading to a 2500. Since my lease is up in May, I'm not sinking anything into this truck.

Posted

I have a 34ft. travel trailer that is probably 8200# loaded (6858# dry weight).

 

My Sierra pulls it well, but it is heavy for the truck. Bounces alot. I'll most likely go 2500 when my lease is up next year.

 

Get the Equalizer 4-point hitch - will make all the difference with sway, etc. It is a $600 hitch, but you won't regret the purchase.

 

I've pulled ours a few times locally and it is decent. I am hesitant to take a long trip without either modifying the truck (Roadmaster Active, bags, something) to minimize rear bounce or upgrading to a 2500. Since my lease is up in May, I'm not sinking anything into this truck.

I started looking at 2500s, i have the air bags with auto level which i love.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

cmysstailights,

 

Please put back in the 195 degree thermostat.

 

The reason for this is, the ECM thinks it's not fully warm and will make compensated adjustments for having a cooler motor which is actually lowering horsepower and torque. All the software calculations are based off a 195 stat warmup and running, not a 180. The cylinder heads need much higher heat to burn ALL the fuel which in turn gives you more power. Cooler heads will not burn all the fuel, those additional un-burn hydro carbons will sent down to the O2 sensors which will change the fuel trim to a leaner condition equaling less power..

 

Somebody told you a 180 stat would be better for overheating and more power, well the cooling systems today are much more efficient as to get rid of unnecessary heat. Somebody's 180 stat installation mindset is from the 1960's. That would be a great idea if you had a non computer controlled "race truck, which you do not have.

 

If you don't change the 180 stat, you will have oddball driveablity problems down the road that you will not be able to diagnose.

 

Just food for thought.

Posted

cmysstailights,

 

Please put back in the 195 degree thermostat.

 

The reason for this is, the ECM thinks it's not fully warm and will make compensated adjustments for having a cooler motor which is actually lowering horsepower and torque. All the software calculations are based off a 195 stat warmup and running, not a 180. The cylinder heads need much higher heat to burn ALL the fuel which in turn gives you more power. Cooler heads will not burn all the fuel, those additional un-burn hydro carbons will sent down to the O2 sensors which will change the fuel trim to a leaner condition equaling less power..

 

Somebody told you a 180 stat would be better for overheating and more power, well the cooling systems today are much more efficient as to get rid of unnecessary heat. Somebody's 180 stat installation mindset is from the 1960's. That would be a great idea if you had a non computer controlled "race truck, which you do not have.

 

If you don't change the 180 stat, you will have oddball driveablity problems down the road that you will not be able to diagnose.

 

Just food for thought.

Thats different info than what some other people recommended on here lol. Makes sense. When i changed the tstat in my 2000 ss i had the computer tuned for it and all my other mods.

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

I have the same truck and I’m safely able to pull 7000 lbs at my max. Please do your research on how much weight you can SAFELY tug around. I’m looking at campers right now as well and won’t go higher than a 28. Anything longer and you need to start worrying about what roads you can be on and not cause a wreck because you bumped the guard rail from too sharp of turn. Also, most RV parks/state parks are pretty tight turns and you will have a hell of a time with trying to get a 35 in and out

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

My truck on the scale weighs 6260 with my family in it and a few odds/ins

 

334eb27db8c42f930f101c99d9891ebc.png

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Majority of the people that give you advice (tuners included) don't understand basic engine physics, chemistry of gasoline and functionality on to how to burn every drop of gasoline.

 

When you take away15 degrees of engine temp your also increasing the level of the fuel needs to vaporize which in turn lowers engine efficiency.

 

The use of 180 stats in a high tech computer controlled motors is a crock of chit carry over from the pre-emission days prior to 1970. The motor design is designed for high heat operation "only".

 

Perfect combustion is the motor's ability to heat up the fuel just short of full atomization upon passing the intake valve. You took that away.

 

Ask your automotive techno geniuses why aluminum heads are put on smog motors when they cost way more to make. If they are half smart, they will respond with a similar comment: "Aluminum heads are also used as "heat sinks" to better combust fuels in a more efficient manner". ..."The object of good combustion is keep the block cool, ...and have all the heat in the heads to atomize the fuel quicker upon approach of the intake valve."

 

Ask them at what temp GM considers an engine overheat??? The answer, 235F.

 

Another question to see how smart these geniuses are, ask them from the start, "What is the specific gravity range of gasoline???" Their answer should be 0.700 to 0.780.

 

Now to little more technical statement, let's see if they can explain this in detail???

 

Gasoline has several boiling temperatures from 100 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. The higher the octane level in the gasoline the lower the boiling temperature of the liquid gasoline.

 

Gasoline is a compound, made up of many different ingredients. So, the boiling temperature is a "RANGE", of 100 degrees to 400 degrees, to cover the boiling temperature of each of the different ingredients. Each Oil / Gasoline company also has its own formula, and they are not all the same ingredients or quantities of ingredients. One of the main problems with vaporizing Gasoline is that it is common practice for the Oil / Gasoline companies to put in Olefin's and Paraffin's, (LIQUID WAXES"), into the gasoline compounds. This has the effect of gumming up the internals, ( "COAKING" ), of any heat exchanger being used, until the heat exchanger is no longer able to transfer heat. The only solution to this problem is to not heat the gasoline past the point where the Olefin's and Paraffin's become activated, and where "COAKING" occurs.

 

The fumes coming off the gasoline at 170F are Pentane and Hexane. They hold the majority of gasoline volume content. As you boil away this majority, 4 ingredients remain. These ingredients with their boiling points are Heptane 200F, Octane 250F, Nonane 300F & Decane 350F. The Heptane & Octane remains in the fuel and coats your exhaust system before it hits the Catalytic Converter. It also increases the Octane content of your gasoline. That is why there is a variation of timing ability as you burn the remaining gasoline.

 

Now let your expert critics explain this concept and why a 180 stat is so much better for your motor???

Posted

post-177201-0-01644200-1506656767_thumb.jpg

 

I am 27ft, ~6200lbs loaded on trailer.

 

5.3L with 6 Speed, 100% stock.

 

 

Truck does just fine towing this, I do wish I had air bags to help out a bit more and I am adding 'shocks' to the trailer as well to help on the bounce.

 

Other than some suspension dislikes my truck does just fine....

post-177201-0-12437700-1506656664_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-12437700-1506656664_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-01644200-1506656767_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-12437700-1506656664_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-01644200-1506656767_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-12437700-1506656664_thumb.jpg

post-177201-0-01644200-1506656767_thumb.jpg

Posted

Towing weight 8800-9000

Not just local, NY to Fla. twice yearly

Truck is a towing beast.

Avg over 11 MPG

2017 6.2 max tow

IMG 20170501 091537330 HDR[1]

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,838
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ar0517
    Newest Member
    ar0517
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 619 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...