Jump to content

1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500

By 1SLOW1500
in Member Build Threads

Recommended Posts

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Damn this is one of the reasons i wont do a turbo. 
 
I hope it all works out but i couldnt do all this
I dont have to hook it up that way but it will get me instant wastegate hold. As one side sees zero and the other has spring plus pressure then when the controller releases the line pressure it dumps it into the zero side and takes it away from the spring.
The higher spring with also make the turbo work harder as it spins more even when the controller release. But the bov saves the engine as it is air sourced only.
Talked to a guy today that had 560rwhp Silverado with a whipple.a869746d36237ebb7b96b4e372fef759.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Re ran some of the catch can lines. Broke one check valve so tried to order one screwed that up and ordered two. Oh well. Header is installed. Should have been easy but took me a hour. I used a gm gasket and copper rvt seal. Google said factory spec is only 11ftlb. But I read after market with reused bolt is more so it got more. Odd thing was auto part dont have the donut gasket for the header to exhaust. Lucky I had one.
Still need to do the maf breakout. Before next weekend. Waiting on my second 3 bar map sensor to show up.
Oh and waiting on my 8lb spring.1b6d2215f184604e6df5b25c190cb685.jpgd0a0a1bdf896937a46ada5addb74c5e0.jpg9207c6a956a502a29729420d753fab89.jpg30f1d80d46e21b093be8290b0104e0c7.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got a few parts. 8lb spring or .6 bar. It is huge. Also got my vacuum line so I will just redo most of the lines on the engine, as i have two different sizes now.
I always second guess myself. Thinking maybe should have just jumped right to the 11lb spring. Ugh.... oh well less than $20 to change out.

Oh working on getting a pair of 2500 air bags on the rear. Every kit isn't set up for this much of a lowered truck. If anyone knows a kit for a rear flip 5" lowered please let me know.
1ad27c67ab349cbea78d203de8b66b5d.jpg39ff15cc454a01c52e532d96ca9eb669.jpg436610ce062857bccf3ce3bdb7077e6e.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted

How is the cerakote holding up? The headers look great. I’m a big fan of how low key the engine compartment looks. Don’t get me wrong, lots of engines look great with bright colors showing off all the add-ons but there’s something about being subtle that I think is bad ass.

 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Got a few parts. 8lb spring or .6 bar. It is huge. Also got my vacuum line so I will just redo most of the lines on the engine, as i have two different sizes now.
I always second guess myself. Thinking maybe should have just jumped right to the 11lb spring. Ugh.... oh well less than $20 to change out.

Oh working on getting a pair of 2500 air bags on the rear. Every kit isn't set up for this much of a lowered truck. If anyone knows a kit for a rear flip 5" lowered please let me know.
1ad27c67ab349cbea78d203de8b66b5d.jpg39ff15cc454a01c52e532d96ca9eb669.jpg436610ce062857bccf3ce3bdb7077e6e.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Helper bag kit?

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes a helper bag but would like a 2500 bag and not that small one we see on the common kit as it is only a 2000. Also the Firestone bad is rated to hang on a lift where the other bags say they will rip.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
40 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Yes a helper bag but would like a 2500 bag and not that small one we see on the common kit as it is only a 2000. Also the Firestone bad is rated to hang on a lift where the other bags say they will rip.

Illhave my bag kit for sale soon. Its mcg kit. Completely bolt on. No drilling

 

Oh id put limit straps.  I dont care what bag it is. i dont want it to over stretch and rip

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

How is the cerakote holding up? The headers look great. I’m a big fan of how low key the engine compartment looks. Don’t get me wrong, lots of engines look great with bright colors showing off all the add-ons but there’s something about being subtle that I think is bad ass.

 

The cerakote is holding great. I but wanted to hold more heat in and the blanket was cheap. I like a OEM or sleeper look. That is why the race core intercooler is blacked out.

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Nasty said:

Illhave my bag kit for sale soon. Its mcg kit. Completely bolt on. No drilling

 

Oh id put limit straps.  I dont care what bag it is. i dont want it to over stretch and rip

PM me and let me know when it is off the truck. 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/24/2018 at 1:20 AM, 300 Blackout said:

Who made the headers?

Speed Engineering they are like $240 with gaskets of amazon. Only negative is the 3 bolts holes are just holes, no pressed in studs. So mine are welded in bolts. 100 times easier to install and remove. Very good quality.  

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I went to the DYNO DAY but didn't run the truck. I got the new parts later then I thought and had tuning issues. THat code was for BARO so needed the break out on the maf to a external map. I have now installed that and it fixed everything. The truck was seeing 11.3 AFR and I'm told these engine lose power under 12 afr. so that was changing the fuel, timming and idle. Idle was 900-1000rpms. 3 wires easy install, now 12.2 afr under WOT. 

I need to give it more time and data log it. But need to change a lot in the tune. And would need to change timming tables if I add meth. SO.... the ever changing plan now is new spring but keep it under 14psi. This should be 625HP or more and next summer go back to screwing with it. Still like to add air bags in the rear soon!

 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know I just said I was done missing with it But.... The flutter when the BOV lets out isn't good and also I'm losing power between shifts. On the dyno it would still make max power as it is a one gear pull but on the street the turbo need to re spool  after ever shift. I must admit I don't understand these bov springs at all. But its says I need a 11psi spring for -20hg engine. Anyone know how these work please let me know. 

Also looking at cams. I like the Lingenfelter GT31, cam limiter,dod delete, lifters, pushrods, trunion, and springs. 

and hate to say it but playing with the idea of smaller rims. 24" look cool but I could use some more rubber. and wheels are so cheap. Pics when new parts so up. 

Trigger man Enthusiast

Trigger man

Posted
Posted
On 12/9/2017 at 1:46 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

****NO CORNER STEPS****New bumper is here. For the price I also ordered new sensors. The paint cost on the. Crimson tintcoat is so high I want all done now. Bill was around $2700.
Thinking about getting my extra tail gate handle painted...
Snowing here so exhaust mod needs to wait. c42f425ef20c1b780743dc94ecfe80c2.jpgfce3aea4e7609caffb44d7623fb75c79.jpge55a0f6ac062553d565c4ae1b62500b2.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

That is a great looking bumper, I work at a large Chevy collision center and was totally clueless that they even made that guy.Iv'e never run across one. Wish I would have got on this site before I started on my build.

Trigger man Enthusiast

Trigger man

Posted
Posted
On 11/7/2017 at 10:28 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Hit a wall. Need a better Map so ordered the GM 12592525 MAP it is a ZR1 part. Also the NGK LTR71X-11 spark plugs.  2 day prime shipping so goal is higher boost before weekend. And this turbo is LOUD. the whistle and blow off and 0-4psi is heard a block away. Got my muffler, It is a DYNOMAX stainless 3.5" bullet. Still working on what exhaust I want. 

Installed my nav/video in motion. I think that is a must for any 8" screen truck. It unlocks nav, text, email, video. I drive safe but I have the passenger input the radio.

have 2 other project cars that need to get to shops ASAP. 

Attic, floors,tree cut down,electrical, Sink,and new high lift garage door opener install so the Bendpak 4 point car lift can go in. 

All in 83 days before my baby boy is born. Oh and a 1000Sqft basement with bar,bathroom, theater, and office. 

I will not get it all done but it's a goal.  

Not enough time in the day. But hell it's fun. 

 

I'm tired just reading this!! Saw that you have a friend at Skinny Kid. They are really talented. I remember back in the day when they rolled out the OLDS . 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...