Jump to content

1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build


1SLOW1500

Recommended Posts

Posted
At what point do you have to upgrade your cam to one with a bigger fuel lobe?

I’m still learning a lot about cams but I’m unclear as to the relationship between a cam’s fuel lobe and the fuel pump and injectors.

It seems guys who are pushing a lot of boost upgrade the fuel system with no mention of an aftermarket cam. Likewise, I rarely see a recommendation from cam manufacturers to upgrade the fuel system when installing a cam with a larger fuel lobe.

Cam helps a lot but it still just increases the high side pump percentage. Some people just bolt up lt4 pump and injectors and then shim the pumps. After lt4 parts the low side need to be addressed. It is a little tricky. So two intakes will be used second is pressure activated and a regulator with return so I can really push the limits. The setup I would build is all new lines all the way to the pump.
Other issue is e85. Even with huge fuel systems you need 30 more fuel on e85. The guys making 700-800 have e85,meth,nitrous or a combo of those.
Basically adding a form of fuel.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Replies 354
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Little gift from gm. Not the most exciting but guess you can call it useful. Latest update. I didnt even know I was getting it so oh well may as well run it.
Katech just came out with a 1300hp 100% E85 pump. Time to do some research.
Still need to order my air bag spacers. All I can find is 1". It is in spec now but I would feel happier with 3" spacer. Could just order up some billet and turn it in the lathe. I just dont know how to anodize. Just a ton more downward travel and still in spec for ride with the bag higher. Remember it is a 5,6,7,8 drop kit.
Had to take my dog to see Santa. ba5b8b655608dfb3cfa2db7e8afb8211.jpg7a8599f2b3f3c422bf7165c00d6f1f5c.jpg2fb3125b8595532cc1960f7aa1f3a3e0.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
4 minutes ago, Nasty said:

What spacer?

Image result for f9000 spacersImage result for f9000 spacers

I would like 2-3" as I only have 4" till the axle hits the belltech bump stop but the bag is showing the bottom silver ring at ride height. They say this kit fits 5" rear lowering and it does but, I think it lifts up the bottom bracket when the bag runs out of stretch. I would rather be in the middle of the bag travel and run 10psi for no load daily drive. That way the bracket is always firmly on the leaf and better ride quality. also on a lift the bag can't max out. Bags have already saved my tires from cutting into the upper fender, it was BAD before. 

Posted
28 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Image result for f9000 spacersImage result for f9000 spacers

I would like 2-3" as I only have 4" till the axle hits the belltech bump stop but the bag is showing the bottom silver ring at ride height. They say this kit fits 5" rear lowering and it does but, I think it lifts up the bottom bracket when the bag runs out of stretch. I would rather be in the middle of the bag travel and run 10psi for no load daily drive. That way the bracket is always firmly on the leaf and better ride quality. also on a lift the bag can't max out. Bags have already saved my tires from cutting into the upper fender, it was BAD before. 

Ahh i get it

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ok not much going on to cold. So working inside version 2.0 of the dash switches. Gauge is going to be my boost controller and then I will add maybe 2 in one oil/pressure/temp or 3 in one E85 gauge on pillar. Just need to paint it out and order another switch.
Finally got my air bag spacers. Need to install them soon.
Been playing with air pressure. 20psi doesn't seem to harsh to me. And I think it is lifting the rear up a little so less air with the spacer. Should be smoother and same performance.
My truck is even lowered zero rake. I don't mind the back up a little like less than 1". And as it saves my tires and allows me to haul a little more it's all wins.

Would have stall,injectors,pumps,lines,regulator,e85,intake,and tb on by now.....but old lady wanted a nice xmas present. And they say truck parts are stupid and over priced. Ugh so se got something shiny. Talk about over price rocks.25d7d92d19b4df58f9936bd1af77e6c7.jpgadd970b3862f3662b6390b7df7cbdaa7.jpg1dba92f0bfd702f9ebc20f0c493784ec.jpgc7d1c265ec0718011e29e410cf6fa707.jpgd4710e322013e66cb9350dc3cf844b48.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Not perfect need to order gm dash trim paint. But also need to drive truck so a quick spray no wet sand this is what it looks like. Works for me for now.
I think I may build a switch box on a cord. That would do shift up and down and 2 step control. Would be a fun little plug in. 96e614ec40bfbafce0da9df096b6d272.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Oops was doing 60mph on expressway and went to pass got on it and it down shifted get boost and I look down it says 127mph. And then I see cloud of smoke behind me. So i look at my gauges 20.6lb. And 1250* 3xhaust temp. But no codes and still running. I shut of boost controller as it failed anyways and keep going what's done is done. I smell something but cant tell if it is coolant or oil. Again no codes. I think I will turn it of and next time I start it coolant is in the cylinder and it will blow but hasn't yet. There is oil all over the underside of truck. Hoping it is just the turbo drain line.
Maybe it's time for plan b my warranty block or maybe it is just a hose. Have to see when I get home if it gets me home. e74a6b27f28adda30da7c241490b53cd.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Any new info on what happened?
Well I drove it home not one issue. Haven't look yet. But we are guessing drain tube. I called tech support and they said that tubo need at least a 10an drain. So I did some shopping. All new lines and fittings for drain. AN 90* on boost manifold and all quick connect hard lines for all boost/vacuum.
Innovate thinks the active spring pressure was to close to the real spring pressure and caused a float or bounce. So in upping the WG spring and looking at a 4port solenoid.

But time will tell I already had people reach out to me offering a stock 5.3l through GM. But as GM already got me a "warranty" long block I will wait to see that I got to deal with.

There is also talk of a larger dual valve cover vent. Have to see where the oil is from first.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Well still drives fine.
Had a dead battery on a -9* morning. But thanks tonmy isolator and dash switch. I just looked at my dual volt gauge and pushed the aux bat. Button and the gauge volt shot up and truck fired right up. Gm is delivering a brand new batter to my house but already sold that to buddy. And bought the new bad boy Optima.
Plan is taking car to the shop and me and a buddy installing bigger springs,hard airlines,an lines,oil change, new drain.
Also this button will solve my issues.hahabfa20f96d01692784b251754fb7a72a0.jpgf112c04778b076d670ed27a9e19bef78.jpg304bf70dc75979b1f525104a59bd1099.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 1/23/2019 at 5:48 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Well still drives fine.
Had a dead battery on a -9* morning. But thanks tonmy isolator and dash switch. I just looked at my dual volt gauge and pushed the aux bat. Button and the gauge volt shot up and truck fired right up. Gm is delivering a brand new batter to my house but already sold that to buddy. And bought the new bad boy Optima.
Plan is taking car to the shop and me and a buddy installing bigger springs,hard airlines,an lines,oil change, new drain.
Also this button will solve my issues.hahabfa20f96d01692784b251754fb7a72a0.jpgf112c04778b076d670ed27a9e19bef78.jpg304bf70dc75979b1f525104a59bd1099.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Just a heads up. The oem battery will last longer than that Optima. Optima has gone to shit

Posted

Yeah they aren't what they use to be. Johnson controls owns them now. I have had about 30 of them in all my trucks,cars,toys over the years. As long as I get 3years I'm happy.
Got the battery installed and some of the boost lines redone.
Oil came today and bought a filter it is rated way better than what I have. And the k&n didn't fit so we will see.
Looking for a dual catch can that mount in front of battery next to turbo. I have seen custom built ones but wanted to find one I could get quicker. The elite can works great but sucks so much it can whistle. 443e0a9cc6c8a482a72c53c0c4addcab.jpg6ee6f35583db3f735638d821c3568ba0.jpg53fca766c971b852c3ff8951be527f17.jpg

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Not sure the M1-212A will fit with your oil filter pancake adapter. My glowshift adapter was too big to allow the M1-212A without hitting the frame crossmember.

I haven’t disassembled one yet, but if the specs are true then the M1-212A is one of the best full flow filters out there. It’s what I run and think it’s a steal at $10.

Posted
Not sure the M1-212A will fit with your oil filter pancake adapter. My glowshift adapter was too big to allow the M1-212A without hitting the frame crossmember.

I haven’t disassembled one yet, but if the specs are true then the M1-212A is one of the best full flow filters out there. It’s what I run and think it’s a steal at $10.
That's funny that was my worry. And the reason the k&n didn't fit. I was going to get a relocation kit but didn't like any on Amazon. I want AN fittings only no clamps. And would be nice if filter location had the ports for my turbo feed. Now you got me wondering.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...