Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

I happened across your post and am planning my own installation of an auxiliary transmission filter. 

I do have questions?  Is there any data regarding flow restriction/constriction on the return fluid that could prove detrimental?  Secondly, from the posts it was mentioned using rubber hoses with barbed connections.  Can I assume the pressures at the INLET & RETURN are low pressure?

 

My filter says not to exceed 90 psi.

 

Thanks again. 

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 2/18/2019 at 10:09 AM, CyaDwnthaRd said:

Hello,

I happened across your post and am planning my own installation of an auxiliary transmission filter. 

I do have questions?  Is there any data regarding flow restriction/constriction on the return fluid that could prove detrimental?  Secondly, from the posts it was mentioned using rubber hoses with barbed connections.  Can I assume the pressures at the INLET & RETURN are low pressure?

 

My filter says not to exceed 90 psi.

 

Thanks again. 

I have no way of knowing what the total restriction this set up adds.

Also not sure what the exact pressure is in this circuit. One thing is most oil filters are rated to about 300 psi. It would be safe to say that its probably below 300.

I know my answer is not very helpful. Do let us know what you end up doing!

 

Posted (edited)
On 5/8/2019 at 10:36 AM, the33z33 said:

Interested in pan drop follow up on this set up as well. 

I updated first post.

 

Edit: Cant change original post.

 

Update.

Changed ATF, filter and dropped the pan Last Sunday (7-28-19) with 50,548 miles on the truck.

Oil filter looked very similar to the one in original post.

Pan looked great! Only shmoo was on the magnet and no build up of any kind anywhere else. Grey stain is left over from water when I tested my new weld in drain plug. I left water in the pan for few days to make sure it wasnt leaking.

 

AKgppXC.jpg

 

Gw5KiCa.jpg

 

Fa7YOhF.jpg

 

RoMyoh3.jpg

 

Magnet shmoo

 

yiqKYGp.jpg

 

After wiping off the oil.

 

hYb428P.jpg

 

UIlCuog.jpg

 

Sy6p1v3.jpg

 

 

Edited by cossack
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Looks great! One question, how or what did you do to get the clearance between the pan and exhaust. Thanks!

Posted

if you want the best trans bipass filter on the market, this is it , beats screw on filter every time.

check it out. i've used these on past truck and it cleans the trans oil so well it actuallty filters out some of the red dye in the oil... 

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

Posted
On 8/3/2019 at 12:59 PM, flyingfool said:

if you want the best trans bipass filter on the market, this is it , beats screw on filter every time.

check it out. i've used these on past truck and it cleans the trans oil so well it actuallty filters out some of the red dye in the oil... 

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

I think that Frantz is meant to be used as a bypass set up where is this one is a full flow, inline filter. Thanks for the heads up though.

Posted

full flow isnt neccessary, you just want to clean the oil. but the frantz can be configured to run full flow, its not a problem. just the filtration level is so high on a frantz it possibly can clog easily after 5000 miles of catching debris

Posted
On 8/5/2019 at 11:07 AM, flyingfool said:

full flow isnt neccessary, you just want to clean the oil. but the frantz can be configured to run full flow, its not a problem. just the filtration level is so high on a frantz it possibly can clog easily after 5000 miles of catching debris

Doesn’t sound like it should be used in this case.

Posted

i use them on most of my heavy duty truck transmission with great success.. when i pull the filter roll after 8000 miles one side is black from super micro fine metal and the otherside is pink and clean. the y are amaizing products. 

another company is called motorguard... similar style filter

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi , any update on how it’s holding up have you had any leaks? I’m curious to see how the copper line is working out for you , with all the vibrations and heat cycles I would be worried about the copper line fatiguing and cracking . Similarly as the lines crack on air compressors . Great job on the detailed tutorial I’m getting ready to do the same on my truck just wondering if you would go the same route again . Thanks 

Edited by SparkKnock
Misspell
  • 6 months later...
  • 5 years later...
Posted (edited)
On 1/24/2020 at 10:47 PM, SparkKnock said:

Hi , any update on how it’s holding up have you had any leaks? I’m curious to see how the copper line is working out for you , with all the vibrations and heat cycles I would be worried about the copper line fatiguing and cracking . Similarly as the lines crack on air compressors . Great job on the detailed tutorial I’m getting ready to do the same on my truck just wondering if you would go the same route again . Thanks 

Been off this forum for a while. Truck has 75,000 miles on it and I haven't had any problems so far. 

How did you install go?

 

 

Edited by cossack
Posted (edited)
On 7/26/2020 at 4:21 PM, flyingfool said:

did you cut the filter open to see inside?

I did, here is a link to post I made on another forum (hopefully its allowed). I changed it in 2019 and in 2023. 

 

#post-6579632link

Edited by cossack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...