Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I did a search and couldn't find anything. Under the hood, in the spot that the second battery would go in a diesel truck, is a huge waste of space. I'm wondering if there's either an aftermarket or factory box that will fit in that spot? I like to carry spare belts and fluids and a rag and prefer to keep such items under the hood.

 

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

A (plastic) marine battery box should fit right in.

 

Probably comes with a strap for hold down.

Posted

Anyone elses truck eat batteries? I wonder if having a second, deep cylcle might help....

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Posted

Mine is the original as far as I know. It did have some trouble when I first bought it, but I figured that was because it sat at the dealer for over a month with only very short trips. But it's ok now.

Posted
1 hour ago, m3n00b said:

Anyone elses truck eat batteries? I wonder if having a second, deep cylcle might help....

You shouldn't need a second battery unless you are putting an extreme load on the system: huge audio system, plow, air compressor, etc.

 

It seems like most of the people I have seen who's battery died extremely young live in the hottest regions. I think heat is worse for the factory battery than cold. I'm still on my original and no signs of needing a replacement yet.

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 2/14/2018 at 10:32 PM, noJeepshere said:

 

I did a search and couldn't find anything. Under the hood, in the spot that the second battery would go in a diesel truck, is a huge waste of space. I'm wondering if there's either an aftermarket or factory box that will fit in that spot? I like to carry spare belts and fluids and a rag and prefer to keep such items under the hood.

 

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

 

@ nojeepshere.....Saw your post on this & wanted to share what I did today for that spare battery area on the drivers side under hood storage on my '17 silverado. I went to local LKQ Pick Your Parts (after searching inventory on line) & picked up a couple of the under hood storage bins for like $6 each. I have modified one by removing the side mounting boss (used a jig saw & heat gun to cut & push in flush to back side) & removed the bottom mounting threaded insert. There are 5 M6 bolts holding the battery tray in place at the bottom. I'll be drilling holes through bottom of the Bin box to match location of 2 or 3 of the bolts to mount the Bin in this battery tray. This is pretty much what my '96 Silverado had. Presto, a storage Bin to store jumper cables, towing hitch & anything else I can think off. I'll post pictures when I get it mounted. Thought I'd pass this on to you. Here's a link on how to remove the Bin from older Silverado.

https://youtu.be/qb9yweIMaAQ

 

 

Posted

Installed a storage box from a 99 Tahoe/Suburban.  I bought it off of Ebay.

It took a couple of new holes in the bottom of the box to mount it. 

Posted
On 2/14/2018 at 10:32 PM, noJeepshere said:

 

I did a search and couldn't find anything. Under the hood, in the spot that the second battery would go in a diesel truck, is a huge waste of space. I'm wondering if there's either an aftermarket or factory box that will fit in that spot? I like to carry spare belts and fluids and a rag and prefer to keep such items under the hood.

 

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

@ noJeepshere….    As mention previously, I have modified the '96 Silverado storage bin in my '17 Silverado.

1. I had to modify the Bin 1st to get it to fit better in the space; I used a heat gun to soften the end mounting boss & reform it so it was flush to that end, so it would fit closer to the fender support. 9Be aware there's an aluminum plate molded in the boss area)

2. I removed the bottom hold down screw boss by heating the area & twisting it out. This allowed it to fit flush to the bottom of the battery tray.

3. I drill (3) holes in the bottom of the box in line with (3) of the tray's mounting bolts.

4. I had to buy M6 x 1.5" lg bolts at Lowes along with washers to be able to screw into the exiting mounting holes. The bolts that were removed are only approx. 1" long and will not contact the threads from the inside of the box.

5. I also modified the Box cover in (2) areas; the hinges were straightened some so I could install the Lid with the fender support brace in place. I also heated & formed a recess in the lid top to allow the Lid to open farther before hitting the support brace.

Attached are pictures of the project. Let me know if you have any questions. I've stored my jumper cables & miss. stuff in this Bin. Thanks for the idea. BTW, I bought the bins at LKQ Pick your parts salvage lot for about $6. (I  pulled 2 bins off trucks just in case I needed the 2nd one.)

20200309_103013.jpg

20200309_103110.jpg

20200309_103121.jpg

20200309_111020.jpg

20200309_113553.jpg

20200309_113618.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Thank you all for the great information. Based on what you provided, I attempted this installation myself.

I made a video about it here to summarize it for future people.

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,654 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...