Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 hours ago, jscottl said:

@pgamboa the"Harness Doctor" can set you up. Maybe even cheaper than the dealer.

 

https://harnessdr.com/

Ok I’ll look into that.  My main concern is will the new harness going from console to existing harness make all accessories work in console? I’m confident the console mounts directly into where jump seat was. Like does my harness have all wires in it and the one I’m removing have blanks?

Posted
8 minutes ago, Kmetzmichael said:

Ok I’ll look into that.  My main concern is will the new harness going from console to existing harness make all accessories work in console? I’m confident the console mounts directly into where jump seat was. Like does my harness have all wires in it and the one I’m removing have blanks?

You have to get the harness from Phil to Make all the connections work in the new console. The dealer does not sell the one need to extend from under seat to front of new console. In order to make it happen through the dealer you would need the dash harness. That is why Phil’s custom harness makes it 100 times easier. I am planning on selling the one I have if you are Interested 

Posted
1 hour ago, Kmetzmichael said:

Ok I’ll look into that.  My main concern is will the new harness going from console to existing harness make all accessories work in console? I’m confident the console mounts directly into where jump seat was. Like does my harness have all wires in it and the one I’m removing have blanks?

Look up pgamboa on youtube. He has video on the swap

Posted
Ok thanks.  I’ve called a lot of dealers and they won’t help me because my vin shows I have junpseat. I do have a vin for duplicate truck with console and they can order me  and new harness but can’t guarantee accessories will all work.  All help is appreciated.  

There is no GM harness for this. I build the conversion custom.

Here is my video:



My site is HarnessDR.com

You can reach me there for a quote to supply all you need for the upgrade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
5 hours ago, AMENDOZA said:

You have to get the harness from Phil to Make all the connections work in the new console. The dealer does not sell the one need to extend from under seat to front of new console. In order to make it happen through the dealer you would need the dash harness. That is why Phil’s custom harness makes it 100 times easier. I am planning on selling the one I have if you are Interested 

 

Posted
6 hours ago, pgamboa said:


There is no GM harness for this. I build the conversion custom.

Here is my video:

 

 

 

 



My site is HarnessDR.com

You can reach me there for a quote to supply all you need for the upgrade.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Awesome video I knew it was possible.  Every dealer told me it wasn’t.  I still need a console to might just buy a new one since I can ok buy find wood grain consoles.  I’d like to order all necessary wires and wire harness. 

Posted
Awesome video I knew it was possible.  Every dealer told me it wasn’t.  I still need a console to might just buy a new one since I can ok buy find wood grain consoles.  I’d like to order all necessary wires and wire harness. 
Go to his website to place an order.
  • Like 1
Posted
Awesome video I knew it was possible.  Every dealer told me it wasn’t.  I still need a console to might just buy a new one since I can ok buy find wood grain consoles.  I’d like to order all necessary wires and wire harness. 

Email me at [email protected]

I can supply the console you need with the trim option you want.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Anyone know if 2017 jump seat from a 1500 is swappable with a center console from a 2016 2500? both black leather. Similar features other than the jumpseat not having the wireless charger and the center console does. 

Posted
Anyone know if 2017 jump seat from a 1500 is swappable with a center console from a 2016 2500? both black leather. Similar features other than the jumpseat not having the wireless charger and the center console does. 

Yes. Physically swappable. No harnesses though for completing the connection. I build those custom.

 

Here at the various harnesses for this swap.

 

https://harnessdr.com/product/16-pin-center-console-conversion-harness/

 

https://harnessdr.com/product/23-pin-center-console-conversion-harness/

 

https://harnessdr.com/product/2014-2018-reverse-console-jump-seat-conversion-harness/

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 9:41 AM, Vinnie Cantacessi said:

  I have an LTZ center console brand new either for sale or trade for a black leather jump seat

I have a black leather jump seat for trade if you’re still interested 

Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 9:41 AM, Vinnie Cantacessi said:

  I have an LTZ center console brand new either for sale or trade for a black leather jump seat

I have a black leather jump seat for trade if you’re interested 

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 10/19/2018 at 11:43 AM, Vinnie Cantacessi said:

Yeah you can get a bench seat in leather. That was the other truck I was looking at.

Vinnie you still looking 2 years later?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I never understood the hate for the column shifter. The console shifter just gets in the way, takes up prime cargo space and in my wife's Jeep, the dog constantly bumps the console shifter into neutral!    Best choice ever to just make it a column shifter across the lineup and be done with it.    (Bonus: Makes swapping from a 5 seater to a six seater far easier)
    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...