Jump to content

Transmission jerk when towing

ewbldavis

Recommended Posts

ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
Posted

Well truck goes in tomorrow for evaluation and hopefully correction. 

 

I bought it used with 30k. Drives smooth as silk. Towed a friend's travel trailer (guestimate is 9K loaded) Saturday and overall was a great experience, but a few times it "jerked" like trans or converter was slipping. No RPM jumps or anything, and didn't really loose any power - but something isn't right. Hopefully we can get it figured out and corrected in next 2500 miles!

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

Are you sure it wasn't the trailer jerking, mine does that when the trailer hits a rolling pothole...

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd



ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

6.0L, and definitely NOT the trailer. Plus side - light bulb went off this morning that I have 5 year drivetrain warranty, so maybe a bit more time to figure it out. I'll post outcome!

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted
Was a member last year here with the same type of issue
Not sure what the fix was


Grizzly
Torque converter wasn't it?

2012 2500hd 6.0l CCSB 4wd
ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I searched and couldn't find much. I'll keep looking. Thanks for info!

 

Talked to dealer - naturally couldn't duplicate problem and nothing on scanner. We'll see if it acts up again. Drives like a dream otherwise, so maybe it was a fluke. I had rear tires balanced to eliminate that as a cause for any vibration (they needed it).

  • 2 months later...
ewbldavis Enthusiast

ewbldavis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: I towed MY camper, and it performed flawlessly.

 

I've towed enough that I was certain it wasn't the trailer because of how it behaved. Fortunately, it does indeed seem to be something with his trailer (maybe brake wire short or something else). Love the pulling power of this rig - was an easy tow.

 

We'll put it to the real test in August when we head down WV turnpike!

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
On 4/25/2018 at 6:35 AM, ewbldavis said:

6.0L, and definitely NOT the trailer. Plus side - light bulb went off this morning that I have 5 year drivetrain warranty, so maybe a bit more time to figure it out. I'll post outcome!

Are you sure about the warranty?

 

I thought they had changed and just the 6.6 still had the 5 yr/100,000. 

 

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 995 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • OnTheReel
      Some Assembly is Required

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...