Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

How does the trim pieces on the side of the upper console part get removed?? I am swapping out the trim color to Synthesis and can’t seem to figure out how to remove the side pieces. Thanks!

 

349e5b100875735576c7c4f88a8a5170.jpg

Posted

surprised it just doesn't have any clips... weird if that doesn't come off.. i thought i saw on some other posts people replacing that.. and the door ones..

Posted (edited)

there is a screw holding the curved part on and it holds the power outlets in place too.  Remove the screw and pull down on the straight end.  It will pop right off.

Edited by lerbud
error
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Were you able to get them off?  I was looking at the Synthesis  (brushed aluminum) kit today & the console part comes as a complete part, not just replacing the woodgrain part.

 

https://accessories.gmc.com/product/2018/GMC/Sierra 1500/interior-trim-kit-in-synthesis-23147678?categoryId=12001

 

Scot

 

Edited by samckitt
Posted

Yep. Once I followed what was said to do they popped right off. 

Posted

So then I dont have to buy the kit that includes the whole upper center console piece for $250, I can just buy the synthesis trim pieces?

 

Kit:

23147676_Primary.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, samckitt said:

So then I dont have to buy the kit that includes the whole upper center console piece for $250, I can just buy the synthesis trim pieces?

 

Kit:

23147676_Primary.jpg

If you can find them for the center console trim yes. I do have an extra cup holder I can sell ya too in Synthesis to save you some money if interested 

Edited by MHPrior80
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the synthesis pieces? I cant find them ANYWHERE!!

Posted
On 6/7/2018 at 5:43 AM, samckitt said:

So then I dont have to buy the kit that includes the whole upper center console piece for $250, I can just buy the synthesis trim pieces?

 

Kit:

23147676_Primary.jpg

Where did you find this?  I've been looking and can't find it.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Looking for the kit also. Everything I've  found doesn't have a good description and I'm not sure if its the right one for CC.

Posted

I didn't want to spend the $250 so I bought carbon fiber vinyl for about $15 and wrapped the wood grain pieces.


 

IMG_7459.thumb.jpg.d044a1f62bcf39590810ef7e92b9bf93.jpgIMG_7461.thumb.jpg.e91f12fbdeefc18efd06fdc3bf202339.jpgIMG_7462.thumb.jpg.598a9874a7358f749d7b1180328915dd.jpgIMG_7460.thumb.jpg.d347a521f83aa05f24fcf0d32d733e01.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I would call your local dealer. I bought the whole kit for a lot less than 250

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
10 hours ago, Marticus said:

I would call your local dealer. I bought the whole kit for a lot less than 250

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

I was at the dealer yesterday and they said they don't have them. He said couldn't find a part # for it. 

He could have just been lazy.

Posted

i use this website, alot of them out there, these guys have good prices. copy and paste the part #'s on ebay or image search and see what they actually look like. can also use the part #'s to find cheaper on used ebay listings too. keep in mind 2014 and 2015 silverado have a fully movable cup holder, and 2016 -2018 have a permanent cup holder. i bought a extra cup holder for my 2016 and used a dremel to remove the guidelines and now have 4 cup holder spots.

these links are for 2016 silverado

console trim-

https://www.group1autoparts.com/auto-parts/2016/chevrolet/silverado-1500/ltz-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/center-console-scat

front door trim-

https://www.group1autoparts.com/auto-parts/2016/chevrolet/silverado-1500/ltz-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-front-door-scat

rear door trim-

https://www.group1autoparts.com/auto-parts/2016/chevrolet/silverado-1500/ltz-trim/5-3l-v8-gas-engine/body-cat/interior-trim-rear-door-scat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,821 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...