Jump to content

Won’t go in reverse…..


Recommended Posts

Posted
1 minute ago, swathdiver said:

The Tech2 was the computer that the dealerships use to work on these trucks.  Besides reading codes, it can test, read just about everything and be use to program modules and a whole lot of other stuff.  It's more important than a wrench.  For without it, you're throwing parts and money at a problem.  I don't buy that the OBD connector is not working.  Now if the scan tool cannot communicate with the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) and the wiring is good, then it is probably bad.  Could be that his scan tool is not good enough to talk to it too.  That's why we should have the same tools that the dealer uses.

 

Prices have come way down, $300-400 delivered depending on options.  Get software 33.004.  Then get subscription to shop manual from AllDataDIY or buy in pdf form from SeriousCTBuyer on ebay.  They go hand in hand.  Tech2 will pay for itself in no time.  This problem has already cost you $1100.

He claimed it was the same tool as the GM dealer in town... said him and the dealer were the only ones that had one. 

Posted
2 hours ago, ncbowhunter said:

What is a tech2? I took it to a local mechanic Thursday. He ruled out the instrument switch. He tried to read the code (maybe he did say tech2) but there was no power to the plugin? So he didn’t have a lot of time to work on it and told me to come back Monday. He was leaning towards an encoder motor or a computer. He says he’s first got to figure out why there’s no power at the plug reader?

For power issue at the OBD II port, check the fuse for the cigarette lighter

Posted
1 hour ago, ncbowhunter said:

He claimed it was the same tool as the GM dealer in town... said him and the dealer were the only ones that had one. 

Is that the same guy who tore into your transmission?  If you were there, google Tech2 and see if what he was holding looks the same.

Posted
9 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Is that the same guy who tore into your transmission?  If you were there, google Tech2 and see if what he was holding looks the same.

 

9 hours ago, swathdiver said:

Is that the same guy who tore into your transmission?  If you were there, google Tech2 and see if what he was holding looks the same.

No different guy. 

Posted
10 hours ago, txab said:

For power issue at the OBD II port, check the fuse for the cigarette lighter

Thanks! I told him I had just blown the fuse at the cigarette lighter closes to the drivers side but he told me that wouldn’t have anything to do with it. I’ll replace that fuse today. 

Posted
12 hours ago, txab said:

For power issue at the OBD II port, check the fuse for the cigarette lighter

 

1 hour ago, ncbowhunter said:

Thanks! I told him I had just blown the fuse at the cigarette lighter closes to the drivers side but he told me that wouldn’t have anything to do with it. I’ll replace that fuse today. 

This promises to be interesting!  Keep us posted!

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

After a lot of headache.... the transfer case  'Encoder Motor" was the culprit!

 

Thanks to everyone for your help! 

Posted

I work at a tranny shop and usually the shift fork wears causing not enough throw to engage. Going from reverse to drive changes powerflow and move out of position. 

Posted
On ‎8‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 3:22 PM, ncbowhunter said:

He tries to read the code but for some reason there’s no power to my code cord??

mine did this and it was a fuse.  the fuse said it went to the cigarette lighter.  I found it by checking all my fuses.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm suborn like that Ed. There's a plaque in my doctor office that says, "Don't quit, take a break." Works for allot of things.    Reality is, the wife loves her SUV and even given it's issues, she'd buy another if she found one with low enough miles. Then again she has me to maintain it.    Most of what ails this thing is GM shooting themselves in the foot and by extension the buyer. Besides a ridiculous breather system the cat warm up strategy, IMHO, is the dumbest thing I've ever seen an OEM do to a vehicle they warranty. On cold start it r-e-t-a-r-d-s the ignition to like -17* ATDC and dump fuel like kicking over a pail to force combustion in the CAT's for rapid warm up. This literally hoses the oil off cylinder walls and creates enough varnish precursors to stick rings in even well maintained engines. THEN if that wasn't bad enough they recommend using a wanting fluid specification at equally stupid interval.    Common to all GDI motors I'm aware of is this silly practice of driving the HPFP off the cam giving a leaking pump direct and unchecked access to the crankcase. And sir, eventually the ALL leak. Your job is to "catch it if you can". Yes, these are the same people that removed dipsticks from engines and transmissions in belief Joe Average wasn't capable of checking, reading and maintain his own vehicles fluids. Sadly  and in large they were correct. Most people these days can't tell a sparkplug from a fire plug.  Great ideas one and all.    Every move and every error calculated to defend themselves from the law and their own customers.       
    • Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...