Jump to content

2019's have the same crappy frame wax?

cbrsilv15

Recommended Posts

cbrsilv15 Senior Enthusiast

cbrsilv15

Posted
Posted

I haven't been up close and personal with one yet, but has anyone checked out the frames? Wondering if they stuck with the same crappy NoxRust?

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, cbrsilv15 said:

I haven't been up close and personal with one yet, but has anyone checked out the frames? Wondering if they stuck with the same crappy NoxRust?

Same "crappy" frame wax.

Start watching at the 2 minute mark.

Watch this:

 

 

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Colorado and Canyon are painted.

Maybe Silverado and Sierra will come painted in 2022 LOL

This frame wax is still better on the 2019s than some of the K2 trucks, especially the 14's and 15's

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

just went and looked at some FERD'S in parking lot?  Coating has flaked off in numerous areas of frame?  No salt conditions here.......Pick your poison I guess?

shift_grind Enthusiast

shift_grind

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

Colorado and Canyon are painted.

Maybe Silverado and Sierra will come painted in 2022 LOL

This frame wax is still better on the 2019s than some of the K2 trucks, especially the 14's and 15's

It's different?

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted

What do you want the frame to be coated in? Paint will flake off and rust just as fast. Maybe you should just plasti-dip your entire truck.

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Just stating an answer to OP's question.

I believe Newdude has said Colorado and Silverado frames are not treated the same.

He owns a Colorado.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Sierra Dan said:

Just stating an answer to OP's question.

I believe Newdude has said Colorado and Silverado frames are not treated the same.

He owns a Colorado.

 

Correct.  My Colorado does not have the wax coating.  Painted or coated with something paint-like.  Not sure what.  You can run your finger on the rails, comes off clean each time.  2015-2019 too.   

 

T1 trucks are wax, but it seems to be applied better on the 4 trucks I've checked out. 

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted

I mean, I'm not a fan of the "wax" coating either. Mine looked like crap so I had my dealer reapply mine right before my 36 month warranty ran out. But if there's a better permanent solution, I'm not aware. Every vehicle's bottom side turns back to rust eventually.

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

I wish they would put a powder coated frame option. That would stand up to a decade of abuse easy, unlike any paint or an electrolysis coating. I would even pay $500 or so for such an option. The thing about a thin wall box frame is that you can't get in there to do maintenance. Once the NOX is compromised it will only take a few years to rot to the point of structural issues. The old C channel frames you could wire wheel and paint over a weekend every few years, there is no doing that with these. A 3/8" C channel will last 10x as long as these box frames when exposed to elements. They use calcium chloride on the roads here and I have seen 3/8" plate gussets rot to the point you can put a air hammer through them, what is going to happen to an exposed 0.964mm frame going to do lol? You wont be restoring these trucks in 25 years unless you drop the body on a new chassis because there wont be anything left of the stock one. 

 

Mind you nothing on today's vehicles is made to last beyond 10 years anymore. It's a marketing technique for a society that replaces everything now rather than repairing it. 

shift_grind Enthusiast

shift_grind

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, L86 All Terrain said:

I wish they would put a powder coated frame option. That would stand up to a decade of abuse easy, unlike any paint or an electrolysis coating. I would even pay $500 or so for such an option. The thing about a thin wall box frame is that you can't get in there to do maintenance. Once the NOX is compromised it will only take a few years to rot to the point of structural issues. The old C channel frames you could wire wheel and paint over a weekend every few years, there is no doing that with these. A 3/8" C channel will last 10x as long as these box frames when exposed to elements. They use calcium chloride on the roads here and I have seen 3/8" plate gussets rot to the point you can put a air hammer through them, what is going to happen to an exposed 0.964mm frame going to do lol? You wont be restoring these trucks in 25 years unless you drop the body on a new chassis because there wont be anything left of the stock one. 

 

Mind you nothing on today's vehicles is made to last beyond 10 years anymore. It's a marketing technique for a society that replaces everything now rather than repairing it. 

I disagree on most everything here.  The difference is after 25 years, they wouldn't have to be restored yet.  To say there will be structural issues after a few years is just incorrect. 

 

The new stuff lasts SOOOOO much longer than it used to.  

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, shift_grind said:

I disagree on most everything here.  The difference is after 25 years, they wouldn't have to be restored yet.  To say there will be structural issues after a few years is just incorrect. 

 

The new stuff lasts SOOOOO much longer than it used to.  

 Isaac Cody's homestead in eastern Iowa was built in 1847. The Walnut flooring and trim was laid once and 171 years latter it is still more than serviceable. Homes on the east coast built circa 1670 in Europe and assembled here are not just standing. Some are still lived in. Nearly 350 years latter. My fathers home has the original redwood siding on it from 1957 and looks great! A house built today???? They can't keep siding on one more than a couple of years. It's buckled in a few months and floors are changed like socks. Roofing is a joke. 

 

 

My first JVC DVD player lasted 25 years. Nothing since has made it more than 5 years. My Craftsman hedge trimmer lasted 40 years. I buy a new one these days every other season. Our Cub 70 lawn tractor is still cutting grass. The new one knocks the steering gear out of it ever other season. Mom's Norge washer and drier lased 45 years. 5 tops is planned now by everyone but Speed Queen Commercial. It gets eight. My WALL beard trimmer is 45 years old and still works. The new cost tens times as much and lasted three months. Just out of warranty. 60 year old McCulloch chain saw. When the bar died the motor got used on the grandsons go-kart. New Stihl is dead in two years. 

 

What planet do you live on?  You're  going to have to wait until guys my age are in the ground 30 years before you can make that statement stick. :rolleyes:

 

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...