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2018 5.3L, Which oil/filter do you use?


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Posted

Easily noticeable difference from stock ac delco to amsoil. Truck has better performance. Can't speak to the comparison between amsoil and mobile 1 or other premium synthetics, but I am so satisfied with Amsoil that I am not curious about trying anything else.

I have Amsoil in the transmission, front diff, rear diff, and transfer case. Just drives better!

well...I'm intrigued, but i feel like I am walking into a bear trap...
 
I use Mobil 1 fully syntetic 0w20 and Mobile 1 Extended Performance -Part# M1-212A...
 
i am intrigued by all of the Amsoil suggestions as apparently I live under a rock and havent heard much about it...are there any links of side by side comparisons?  I change my own oil quite regularly at 5000 mls.
 
how much better performance and more importantly for me longevity will I get out of my vehicle?  (I am about due for a transmission and transfer case fluid change, so is it safe for me to assume y'all are Amsoil ALL in fans?)


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Posted
For the people using the Amsoil signature and filter, what’s your average cost per oil change? I’m due for an oil change this winter and I was thinking of going that route.


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Signup for an amsoil account and you will get everything on their site at wholesale prices, save alot of cash.

I have Amsoil throughout my truck and my wifes. Transmission, front diff, rear diff, and transfer case. Noticeable difference over stock ac delco.

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Posted
35 minutes ago, spenpet said:

well...I'm intrigued, but i feel like I am walking into a bear trap...

 

I use Mobil 1 fully syntetic 0w20 and Mobile 1 Extended Performance -Part# M1-212A...

 

i am intrigued by all of the Amsoil suggestions as apparently I live under a rock and havent heard much about it...are there any links of side by side comparisons?  I change my own oil quite regularly at 5000 mls.

 

how much better performance and more importantly for me longevity will I get out of my vehicle?  (I am about due for a transmission and transfer case fluid change, so is it safe for me to assume y'all are Amsoil ALL in fans?)

What you're using is fine IMO.

I wouldn't change to Amsoil.

I have used many brands of oil and filters for lots of miles. The oil and filters meet OEM spec.

I don't do extended intervals, 3 K miles for me.

I use fleet filters bought buy the dozen from local auto parts stores, same filters used by quick change joints like Jiffy Lube.

 

Is there better oil and filters than I use, yes.

I've never had a problem.

Do what works for you.

 

:)

 

Posted
Signup for an amsoil account and you will get everything on their site at wholesale prices, save alot of cash.

I have Amsoil throughout my truck and my wifes. Transmission, front diff, rear diff, and transfer case. Noticeable difference over stock ac delco.

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Thank you! I saw that on their website the other day so I’ll have to sign up, stuff is fairly expensive by the quart so every little bit helps.


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Posted
20 minutes ago, nicksoco831 said:

 


Thank you! I saw that on their website the other day so I’ll have to sign up, stuff is fairly expensive by the quart so every little bit helps.


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Nick  I can help with getting you set up as a Preferred Customer.  PM me your info

Posted
What's that fit? 

It’s a bypass filter and fits the AMSOIL bypass filter base (Part# BK303).

I’m installing a coupling between my regular oil filter and vehicle which allows me to install a feeder line running to the bypass filter. It uses about 10% of my oil pressure to feed the bypass filter (no harmful effect to the vehicle). Once the oil is cleaned by the bypass filter, its returned to the sump through my oil cap. The standard, full flow filter still supplies oil to the engine.

Since the full flow supplies oil to the engine there are limits to how much it can clean while still maintaining adequate flow. Since the bypass doesn’t supply the engine, the flow can be reduced and a much finer filter media can be used.
Posted
4 hours ago, nicksoco831 said:

For the people using the Amsoil signature and filter, what’s your average cost per oil change? I’m due for an oil change this winter and I was thinking of going that route.


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I don't get into all that other stuff of this that or which?  I can speak to the AMSOIL Gear oil....it is without a doubt the best I have used?  

Posted
For the people using the Amsoil signature and filter, what’s your average cost per oil change? I’m due for an oil change this winter and I was thinking of going that route.

If you’re a preferred customer it will be about $80 for 8 quarts of ASS 0W-20 and $14 for the EaO17 filter. If the AMSOIL allows you to extend your change intervals out to 25,000 miles compared to every 7,500 then the price is roughly $31 per 7,500 miles.

 

 

Posted
If you’re a preferred customer it will be about $80 for 8 quarts of ASS 0W-20 and $14 for the EaO17 filter. If the AMSOIL allows you to extend your change intervals out to 25,000 miles compared to every 7,500 then the price is roughly $31 per 7,500 miles.
 
 


Oh yes I forgot that you can run that oil for 25k, pretty interesting I’ll have to read more into that. Thanks for the pricing though!


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Posted
3 minutes ago, nicksoco831 said:

 


Oh yes I forgot that you can run that oil for 25k, pretty interesting I’ll have to read more into that. Thanks for the pricing though!


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Nick, I sent you a PM. 

Posted

It’s a bypass filter and fits the AMSOIL bypass filter base (Part# BK303).

I’m installing a coupling between my regular oil filter and vehicle which allows me to install a feeder line running to the bypass filter. It uses about 10% of my oil pressure to feed the bypass filter (no harmful effect to the vehicle). Once the oil is cleaned by the bypass filter, its returned to the sump through my oil cap. The standard, full flow filter still supplies oil to the engine.

Since the full flow supplies oil to the engine there are limits to how much it can clean while still maintaining adequate flow. Since the bypass doesn’t supply the engine, the flow can be reduced and a much finer filter media can be used.
What engine is in your truck? I wouldn't recommend bypass and then dumping into the valve cover oil filler. The 10% is scary but the way these engines cool and the DOD. Oil and oils pressure need to be in the right parts of engine. Also all that oil in just dumped in one head and then needs to drain back to pan. When it does this most if not all is draining on the front of drivers head. Also makes me wonder about the pressure at the stock oil filter. These trucks are known for low pressure at idle. The thin oil helps as more mass is there at low idle but hot people are seeing 10psi. 40psi minus 10% is 4psi. But if at 10psi you lose 4psi and much of the 8qts is in the upper block. Bad news.
I am going to run a remote filter just to run a larger filter but stock oil feed and return.
Also the crank case pressure is a issue on these cars and the lsx also,reason for the catch cans,puke tanks and breathers. And the amount off oil is alarming. Even in my CSS oil gets through? Are you running any can or breather or just filling oil in the valve covers?
Very interested.thanks

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Posted
What engine is in your truck? I wouldn't recommend bypass and then dumping into the valve cover oil filler. The 10% is scary but the way these engines cool and the DOD. Oil and oils pressure need to be in the right parts of engine. Also all that oil in just dumped in one head and then needs to drain back to pan. When it does this most if not all is draining on the front of drivers head. Also makes me wonder about the pressure at the stock oil filter. These trucks are known for low pressure at idle. The thin oil helps as more mass is there at low idle but hot people are seeing 10psi. 40psi minus 10% is 4psi. But if at 10psi you lose 4psi and much of the 8qts is in the upper block. Bad news.

I am going to run a remote filter just to run a larger filter but stock oil feed and return.

Also the crank case pressure is a issue on these cars and the lsx also,reason for the catch cans,puke tanks and breathers. And the amount off oil is alarming. Even in my CSS oil gets through? Are you running any can or breather or just filling oil in the valve covers?

Very interested.thanks

 

I have an L83. I haven’t installed the system yet as I’m still waiting on all the parts to arrive.

 

The system’s flow is 100% dependent on the vehicle’s supplied pressure. If the vehicle drops down to 10psi then pressure to the bypass filter also drops down to 10psi and flow will be reduced accordingly since there is a fixed, not variable, orifice size for oil returning from the bypass filter.

 

The pressure concern you bring up is interesting and, for someone running their engine hard, it may be worth installing a valve that only supplies the bypass system when pressure is above a fixed point. Since the bypass doesn’t supply the engine, there is no harm to shutting it off via a valve.

 

The bypass system requires additional oil to be added to it. My filter holds 2 additional quarts of oil not including any extra to fill the lines supplying it. I will likely be running a total of 10 to 10.5 quarts of oil.

 

If you are going to run a remote filter on your truck check this out. It’s both a remote and bypass filter and all flow is returned to the stock return. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/universal-dual-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK23-EA

 

Regarding returning the oil via the valve cover fill port, this is not required and the system can be plumbed to return directly to the sump but it would require you to drill (or punch) the pan and install a self-tapping hollow bolt. This bolt is about $11 and has self tapping male threads one side and a female connection on the other side to allow you to connect to it. It is also commonly included with the kits for installing an oil cooler or bypass filter.

 

A breather and running a vacuum to the crank case are a things I’m researching right now. I honestly don’t know how or if returning oil via the valve cover will cause an issue.

Posted

In addition to that kit above, you’d need to purchase part# BK310 which is the adaptor that screws into your stock oil port. EaO26 which is a full flow filter for the thread size of the remote filter base. Then choose a bypass filter (Part# EaBP90 or EaBP100 or EaBP110).

You can also buy the filter base, spin on adapter, full flow filter and bypass filter individually. Then go to Jegs or Summit and purchase your preferred hoses and fittings. If it was me, I would plumb in an oil cooler in the return line from the filter to the stock oil return. Especially considering how hard you run your truck with the turbo, an oil cooler just makes sense and would be so easy to add to this system.

Posted
17 minutes ago, 300 Blackout said:

In addition to that kit above, you’d need to purchase part# BK310 which is the adaptor that screws into your stock oil port. EaO26 which is a full flow filter for the thread size of the remote filter base. Then choose a bypass filter (Part# EaBP90 or EaBP100 or EaBP110).

You can also buy the filter base, spin on adapter, full flow filter and bypass filter individually. Then go to Jegs or Summit and purchase your preferred hoses and fittings. If it was me, I would plumb in an oil cooler in the return line from the filter to the stock oil return. Especially considering how hard you run your truck with the turbo, an oil cooler just makes sense and would be so easy to add to this system.

Agree but the issue would be where to mount it all the intercooler takes up all and even 99.9% of the Denali grill. Had to grind plastic for 3 days. also the issue off draining the lines when a oil change is done if the oil cooler was low mount. 

As far as breather or vacuum pumps You want no oil in intake and equal or even better negative crank/upper pressure. 

I will run a K&N bypass filter. I have a adapter over the stock filter that allows me to tap into the pressure side for my turbo feed. also has two more ports I will use for temp and pressure gauge.  Due to the oil pressure drop issues everyone has. 

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