2018 5.3L, Which oil/filter do you use?

[300 Blackout]

I love oil/filter threads. 

Well in that case here is a present just for you Grumpy.

[300 Blackout]

Was going to change the oil in my truck this weekend & wondering what oil you all are using....Next question, what filter?

 

OIL: If you are doing standard change intervals and must use Dexos 1 Gen 2 licensed oil, then Valvoline Full Synthetic Advanced (formerly SYNPOWER) or Full Synthetic Max Life/High Mileage 0W-20 are very good oils. 10 quarts for $50 at Walmart. Aside from AMSOIL, I wasn’t able to find an oil that was better based on reading their published testing data (Admittedly, I only looked at the most common oils and didn’t look at TOTAL or similar offerings). The downside is it’s on the higher side of volatility and you’ll likely need to top off the oil level during your 7,500 mile change interval.

 

FILTER: Mobile 1 Extended Performance (Part# M1-212A). Very durable (not usually a concern, but if you really like things that are overbuilt then this is right up your alley), appropriately calibrated bypass valve for our engines and lots of good quality filter media for extended change intervals if you choose. Hard to beat for $10 at Walmart.

 

For extended change intervals, while I have no first hand experience, based on their testing literature, it looks like it’s hard to beat AMSOIL Full Synthetic Signature Series 0W-20. Not a licensed Dexos 1 Gen 2 oil, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it doesn’t meet the spec. Higher up front cost but less expensive overall if you’re running it for 25k miles between changes.

 

I can’t speak about their full flow filters as I have not researched them (ask me about their bypass filters and I’ll write you a book).

 

[mookdoc6]

1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I love oil/filter threads. 

As he mocks ya........he really does ENJOY it?  So Bipolar if you ask me...........................

 

That was helpful Crobinsion16. No offence taken. Your right. We all get the same motor more or less. Mine are nothing special upon delivery. Not much handwork to them anymore. CNC everything and GM, all top manufactures for that matter, have it down pretty good. Fact is they are nearly broken it upon delivery. 'Nearly' the key word. Some key items. 

 

Current pistons are hypereutectic and fit often to under .001". They are also friction coated. Rings are whisper thin, hard and with great tolerance control. These things contribute to 'ring stability' in a way only the top engine builders of the past had access to. These GDI pistons have unusually  thick crowns and thrust faces. Robust ring land area all around. They also have under head oil jetting for cooling. 

 

Wall finishes are very fine and ring to bore, OD to ID nearly a lap fit. Fact is the rings are seated within minutes. The trick in a modern engine isn't getting them to seal, it's keeping them sealed. To do that you have to control both heat and cleanliness. 

 

The ring area is one of the hottest in the motor where excellent lubrication is required. One of the easiest to foul with what looks like amber/black lacquer. Limiting heat by keeping load and rpm moderate for several thousand miles is huge. My personal marker is 40K for this process. Fighting what heat you can't avoid with a great lubricant and changing it, and filter, like your wife changes her mind is, IMO, paramount.

 

No matter how well mated the parts are the early tightness of the motor is ridiculous. That makes tons of heat that tighten every part in you pride and joy. The parts are so hard and well coated it takes tens of thousands for them all to find their happy place. Also limiting start ups. GDI motors dump fuel on start up and the excess, while quickly gone, isn't helping the crazy thin layer of lubrication on the cylinder walls above the top ring. Run it long enough to fully warm and if possible at least a hour at normal operating temperatures. 

 

500, 1,000, 2,500, 5,000, that's my change interval. After that GDI is 5K and EFI and carburetor motors 7,500 if water cooled and 2,500 to 5,000 on air cooled depending on the amount of oil cooler and it's effectiveness in controlling bulk oil temperatures. 

 

Early on I use a good Group III. Quaker State, Valvoline, Havoline or Shell. WIX filters. Around 20K I switch to Red Line but AMSOIL would also be great. Any PAO or better. I use oil coolers and limit water temperatures. 212 F max no matter what on oil and anything under 200 F water. 180 F my go to for water. No colder.  I don't do extended oil changes and I don't invite trouble with oil temperatures over 212F. I don't care what the propaganda is saying. That reserve is for the odd emergency not the general rule.

 

I monitor the motors critical temperatures like my 16 year old daughters first date. By 40K your going to find that habit of moderation kind'a sticks with you.

 

ANY oil consumption that isn't a leak is trouble if it finds it's way into the combustion chamber. Knock is an end gas chemistry phenomena that is aggravated silly by oil in the chamber. 

[Leevon]

My logic is that as long as the truck is under warranty I'm going to make sure that if I ever have an engine issue, there will be no excuse to void my warranty.  I purchase Delco 0w20 and filters from the dealer, even though I own a shop and have both in inventory much cheaper.  I keep those receipts, invoice myself with mileage and OLM % clearly stated and staple the filter box top with both papers, all placed in a binder.  It's overkill but I have seen legit warranty claims denied to customers who can't produce oil change receipts OR have used the "incorrect" oil and filter.  I have good relations at area GM dealers, so in all likelihood it wouldn't be an issue BUT I'm not taking chances.  I do the same for my Challenger Scat Pack because it's a high performance engine, I drive it hard and don't trust the local Dodge service department at all.  

[Gagliano7]

http://www.bestsyntheticoilfilter.com/best-motor-oil-1/ I have seen some videos of many filters and the mobil one extended filter looks the best built. I have always used fram without a problem but after watching some videos it is very cheaply made with cardboard inside.

[Black02Silverado]

10 minutes ago, Gagliano7 said:

http://www.bestsyntheticoilfilter.com/best-motor-oil-1/ I have seen some videos of many filters and the mobil one extended filter looks the best built. I have always used fram without a problem but after watching some videos it is very cheaply made with cardboard inside.

Actually the Fram Ultra is a very well constructed filter with a synthetic filter media. Nothing like the regular Fram filter.  Two totally different filters.

[Ozer]

Its like asking whats your favorite color lol You will get lots of answers.

I just use whatever 0w-20 is on sale with rebates. Usually Mobil 1 and Valvoline and always use Mobil 1 extended filter around 15-20% oil life left.

Has been working good for me, i dont tow and just use it daily back and forth to work.

[BigBlueLB756]

For enlightenment purposes only:

 

 

[Lgetz]

14 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I love oil/filter threads. 

X2, please pass the popcorn sir.

[gone_fishing]

Here are two filters that I have cut open:

 

Fram Ultra XG10575: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3534172/Cut_open:_Used_Fram_Ultra_XG10

 

Mobil 1 M212-A: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4580584/Cut_open:_Mobil_1_M212-A_used_

 

I thought both were constructed well but I like the media in the Fram Ultra better (more robust). As some of you may now, GM changed their bypass specs for the Gen5 motors (now 22PSI). From what I have gathered the Mobil filter meets these specs but the Fram does not (9-15 PSI). I read that Fram will be releasing an updated filter with higher bypass at some point.

[300 Blackout]

AMSOIL EaBP110 Bypass Filter. If Crocodile Dundee carried an oil filter instead of a knife, this would be it.

[samckitt]

What's that fit? 

[nicksoco831]

For the people using the Amsoil signature and filter, what’s your average cost per oil change? I’m due for an oil change this winter and I was thinking of going that route.


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[spenpet]

well...I'm intrigued, but i feel like I am walking into a bear trap...

 

I use Mobil 1 fully syntetic 0w20 and Mobile 1 Extended Performance -Part# M1-212A...

 

i am intrigued by all of the Amsoil suggestions as apparently I live under a rock and havent heard much about it...are there any links of side by side comparisons?  I change my own oil quite regularly at 5000 mls.

 

how much better performance and more importantly for me longevity will I get out of my vehicle?  (I am about due for a transmission and transfer case fluid change, so is it safe for me to assume y'all are Amsoil ALL in fans?)

[Centex14]

The truck itself will fall apart long before you see any considerable life extension between amsoil and Mobil one.


2014 z71 LTZ
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Borla Exhaust
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Bilstein 5100
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