Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2017 Silverado 2500HD & use an Android phone. I can receive texts & listen to them while driving. However I haven't been able to figure out a download that will allow me to send a text while driving.

 

Any suggestions

Posted

I use android auto for that.  Im am not tech savy 1 bit.  And i use it  super easy 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

If your phone is connected to the truck through Android Auto or Apple Carplay(Projection), you can send a response text by voice. It works pretty good.

 

Alternatively, if you are not plugged in for Projection, you can reply using the screen, but you can only select a generic message from the list.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

When my phone is connected via bluetooth (Not using Android Auto) and a text message comes in i can see whoever sent me the message but i can not see what the message says. How do i go about seeing these texts without connecting to the USB or by using Android Auto?

  • 3 years later...
Posted (edited)
On 7/1/2019 at 6:40 PM, HeySkippyDog said:

If your phone is connected to the truck through Android Auto or Apple Carplay(Projection), you can send a response text by voice. It works pretty good.

 

Alternatively, if you are not plugged in for Projection, you can reply using the screen, but you can only select a generic message from the list.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J727A using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

OK, fast forward to 2024... My nephew the tech person in the family looked into this & realized that I needed and Android Adapter. When I did get an adapter:

AdapterTeeran.jpg.2b6fa773da566ad6157ace991f67d84e.jpg

Teeran 'brand' via Amazon.ca

 

, the icon in 'Projection' would not change. Looking at their website in the instructions & it is supposed to be compatible with 2016+ GM pick ups. He looked online & saw that there was an update for 2016 trucks. Mine was an early 2017 built in fall of 2016. I thought maybe whatever issue the 2016s had, mine MAY have had. Also neither truck had the RPO CPO (which apparently deletes connectivity(?). I took it to the dealer & they found that the radio RPO IO5 was up to date. The tech had an Android phone too & had no luck connecting to the truck.

 

The next time my nephew was here, he said, lets try 'my' adapter in his truck, a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 w/ the IO5 radio. Lo & behold my phone would connect to his truck.

 

He got to thinking & grabbed the adapter he uses for the gf's phone:

AdapterHerilary.thumb.jpg.f7703deb82a86a06010e6689cbf578c8.jpg

 

We plugged it into my truck. Sure enough the icon appeared in the 'Projection' spot. He had to change my music playing app, but now I can verbally reply to a text vs the 'canned' messages. One cool feature is that I can use a hunting app to see the satellite view of the surrounding area.

 

I let the dealer service guys know that the no Android condition wasn't a issue w/ the truck.

 

So the moral of the story is, not all Android adapters are created equal. If @ 1st you don't succeed, try another adapter.

Edited by revrnd
Posted

This is the topic that my nephew was going by:

 

 

  • 6 months later...
Posted
2 hours ago, cemem said:

How do I stop the "I'm driving" text replies? When driving my 2014 Rogue (bluetooth connected) and I get a text the phone automatically sends an "I'm driving" reply. Apparently it's a Nissan Connect feature. You can turn it off, but it goes right back on next time you're in the car. Any solutions?

Sell the rogue and buy a gm vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,469 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
    • Take it back. That's about all you can do.  Mark 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...