Jump to content

Fuzzy back up camera

Bigmoore
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bigmoore Enthusiast

Bigmoore

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

 

I hope I’m not the only one frustrated with this issue. For a few months, I have had issues with my back up camera being very fuzzy/grainy, which is almost unusable at night. I took it in to my local dealership and found out that there is a technical bulletin for this issue basically saying that if any 12 volt accessory plugged in, it is causing the issue. In my case, it’s a dash cam that is on all the time. Basically I was told that there is nothing they can do and I need to unplug my dash camera to have a useable backup camera. For a 2018 Sierra, I would expect there wouldn’t be these issues as I didn’t have them in my 2014. Has anyone figured out a workaround to still allow the 12 volt accessory to be plugged in but not cause the grainy/fuzzy output?

 

PIT5552B is the bulletin.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

catpartsman Enthusiast

catpartsman

Posted
Posted

Hardwire you’re dash cam in. That’s what I did with mine. It turned on every time the truck starts and I have to manually turn it off when I get out of it for the day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Confused 1
AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted

My 2016 has always been fuzzy with no 12v accessories plugged in.  Even after meticulously cleaning the external lens.

 

  • Like 1
AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Oh there is a fix. We have seen it and have it done. Keep searching.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Seems I can order the 2016 OEM assembly for about $110 which includes the lens and cable which connects under the bed to a connector.  Do you know if the cable plugs into the lens so I can just replace the lens from the kit without fishing the wire? 

 

https://www.gmpartsgarage.com/oem-parts/gm-rear-camera-84062896?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9cGFya2luZy1haWQmbD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz1zaWx2ZXJhZG8tMTUwMCZ5PTIwMTYmdD1oaWdoLWNvdW50cnkmZT01LTNsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, AE1M said:

Seems I can order the 2016 OEM assembly for about $110 which includes the lens and cable which connects under the bed to a connector.  Do you know if the cable plugs into the lens so I can just replace the lens from the kit without fishing the wire? 

 

https://www.gmpartsgarage.com/oem-parts/gm-rear-camera-84062896?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9cGFya2luZy1haWQmbD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHMmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz1zaWx2ZXJhZG8tMTUwMCZ5PTIwMTYmdD1oaWdoLWNvdW50cnkmZT01LTNsLXY4LWdhcw%3D%3D

Year of the truck depends on what camera you buy because theres another plug with the camera that powers the locking tailgate

fatkid24 Enthusiast

fatkid24

Posted
Posted
Oh there is a fix. We have seen it and have it done. Keep searching.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk



I’ve searched and haven’t found a fix. If you have more information, I’d appreciate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Thanks 1
1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

If the power wire draw is to high and is causing the camera to flicker you have some options.

new power source on the 12v acc. cut wire and add relay. It will isolate the feed and reduce the draw. 

add another power the the camera circuit. 

you could even temporary tap the wire over for a day and see if the "patch" fixes it.  

 

as far as your dash cam. I recommend Rap wire in drive fuse box. fuse it to the real draw. If you want constant power kick panel fuse box again fuse it.  

 

As I tell everyone. ask dealer for the FULL print out of all codes reported. It will surprise you the history codes. They can show low voltage and and even fault circuits. 

AE1M Enthusiast

AE1M

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Nasty said:

Year of the truck depends on what camera you buy because theres another plug with the camera that powers the locking tailgate

The part I gave the URL for is for my 2016 High Country.    

 

What I want to know is if I can replace the camera without having to re-snake the wire.  Is there a plug on the lens end so that I can just swap out the lens which I believe may be the cause of my blurry image.  It works fine, except for the blurry image.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, AE1M said:

The part I gave the URL for is for my 2016 High Country.    

 

What I want to know is if I can replace the camera without having to re-snake the wire.  Is there a plug on the lens end so that I can just swap out the lens which I believe may be the cause of my blurry image.  It works fine, except for the blurry image.

No you have to change the whole thing. Its super easy. Should take 5 minutes. I added backup cam in my truck

  • 2 months later...
ray77 New Member

ray77

Posted
Posted

I got a 2018 Sierra , after I installed the after market LED backup bulb, the camera would glitches.  I brought it to the dealership and they told me it was the LED bulb, so i took it off and put the original incandescent bulbs back and it still glitches sometimes. Listen up GMC! 

  • 2 years later...
Tymur New Member

Tymur

Posted
Posted (edited)

So. As of for me. I replaced headlight low beam light bulbs half a year ago and that when this blurry screen appeared. I was driving with blurry screen for a half a year. Took it to the dealer and boom! They couldn’t do anything and $1800 later I picked it up from them. I read this thread and remembered about light bulbs. Then I put it in reverse and ... manually shut the lights off as they are always on as day running lights. My screen became hd quality lol. You are welcome everyone!!!

Edited by Tymur
  • 7 months later...
bxc New Member

bxc

Posted
Posted

I've unpluggedmy power port phone block and it made no difference. Next step is to unplug and clean connections. If no improvement I'll install an aftermarket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 476 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BDS my HD
      Brand new to this forum. Questions about re-gearing my 26’ HD

      By BDS my HD · Posted

      Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • linc45bn
      2013 2500HD 6.0L intermittent no crank no start

      By linc45bn · Posted

      I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Peoplemvr
      GMC 1500 Illuminated Front Grill Emblem REPLACEMENT.

      By Peoplemvr · Posted

      Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...